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Twisted forks?

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RickTaff
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Twisted forks? Reply with quote

Posted a while back about coming off the bike, and it sliding on it's left hand side causing the stator cover to crack, which is now fixed. Fitted new X ring chain and sprockets, they needed doing anyway


Finally had time to test ride the bike given work commitments, and can feel it wanting to pull left while riding. It's as if when riding down the street 15-20 yards, I have to keep steering the handlebars to stop the pulling effect. Independent garage near me reckons twisted forks caused while the bike was sliding - and it is a straightforward fix, not worth me paying £52 in labour to have it done.


So his 2 suggestions were crack loose (not unscrew) the lower triple clamps, front wheel axel nut and the allen key bolt just below this (i think he said it clamps the fork around the spindle), also suggested maybe cracking loose the mudguard too. Then 1 suggestion was to mount the bike, and push downward on the handle bars so the forks jolt back into place, or old school wheel between thighs and move handlebars like a pushbike...

Curious as to peoples opinions who have ever done this, on what method is better.

Cheers
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be the bars are bent. It's a simple matter to bend them back if they are not kinked.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've straightened forks on an old YDS7 by slackening off and bouncing the front end then re tightening. It worked but that;'s on a relatively small light bike.

Would I try it on a modern bike? probably if no other choice, yes.

Would I pay £52 to have a shop do it nowadays, definitely especially if they are going to check alignment etc. afterwards.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
I've straightened forks on an old YDS7 by slackening off and bouncing the front end then re tightening. It worked but that;'s on a relatively small light bike.



+1

I had a head on disagreement with a car on the wrong side of the road, which resulted in bars pointing 5 degrees left when the wheel was straight.

Was dubious that slackening everything bar the top yoke, and then bouncing the front would do much good.

But it did. Thumbs Up
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely worth a shot, it's free.
This is how you should align the front axle when you've had the wheel out or done any work on the forks.

Also measure the clip ons and adjust so they're both equal, don't forget to check rear wheel alignment too.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That method of fork realignment is described in the Haynes manual for my Kawasaki, so it's been around for a while and isn't as strange as it may seem at first glance.
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kgm
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 03 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used that method a few times with good results 👍
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 03 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fine for the final adjustment but I tend to do the gross movement with the wheel between my legs. Me.putting my weight (or lack of) on a big bike barely moves the suspension.

Nuts loose, obviously.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 03 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Fine for the final adjustment but I tend to do the gross movement with the wheel between my legs. Me.putting my weight (or lack of) on a big bike barely moves the suspension.

Same here, apart from the weight....

Referring to the OP though, I would have thought loosening the axle pointless/ possibly a bad thing.

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Nuts loose, obviously.

Wince Wink
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 03 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

'Del Boy's Garage' on YouTube covered this procedure. (Twice, actually.) He's not everyone's cuppa tea but I've learned stuff on there.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 06:28 - 04 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
'Del Boy's Garage' on YouTube covered this procedure. (Twice, actually.) He's not everyone's cuppa tea but I've learned stuff on there.


If it was just image or style, then cool, everyone is different.

The fuckwit does some outright dangerous shit, and is clueless about it, then throws tantrums when he gets told it's dangerous, and why etc.

Watch at your own risk.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 08:06 - 04 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting. Like what?
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 04 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

There were one or two old hand-me-downs that were shown that worked, but you do have to be careful before copying anything you see. It's like parkour - all fun and games before you break your neck. Meanwhile someone somewhere is staying quiet, getting his and his mate's Harleys serviced for free, and the services of a fully outfitted workshop whenever he happens to be in the area, all paid for by naive viewers. The game is rigged - happy hour has passed. There are no good guys either - just political rivals. Re-covering a seat in vinyl is a no-no in the new manifesto, and no doubt so are many things yet to be announced. If you chopped off your silencer or made a fairing from steel rods because a guy on Youtube did it, you lost.

Poker Run is an underrated movie. If you haven't watched it, I recommend it. Hidden motives and real dangers exist.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 04 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, real helpful replies.

Have watched a few youtube videos of people doing the fix, and some crack loose the nut in centre of top yoke (between the 2 fork stanchion nuts) and some dont. So I am wondering am i better off doing it, or not
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 04 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

RickTaff wrote:
Thanks guys, real helpful replies.

Have watched a few youtube videos of people doing the fix, and some crack loose the nut in centre of top yoke (between the 2 fork stanchion nuts) and some dont. So I am wondering am i better off doing it, or not

Think about where the twist actually could be. It can't be in the wheel spindle, unless the spindle's actually bent, which is not likely. The bottom yoke grips the stanchions, but they will slip if there's enough force, and the stanchions will rotate slightly in the yoke, or the yoke will rotate about them, depending on your perspective. The stanchions are gripped similarly by the top yoke, so that's a possibility, and unless the steering stem has been physically twisted, then the top of the stem will have rotated in the top yoke (or in the bottom yoke, but that's likely to be a press fit, or even welded, so that's much less likely).
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