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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 28 Mar 2020    Post subject: 2-stroke basics Reply with quote

I was gonna add this to my DT thread but I thought it might be more of a general interest topic.

DT175 (1976, 2-stroke) stock exhaust and airbox but a Mikuni VM28 carb over the factory VM24SS. Factory spec #140 main jet, needle at middle position, mixture screw about 2 turns out. New spark plug and air filter.

So far I've got it to the point where it starts and idles fine. I dunno if this is because of the recent mild weather but it starts pretty well from cold with no choke; maybe a little teasing of the throttle.

Symptoms

5 mins of riding it's fine and seems to have plenty of power. After that it seems to splutter in the midrange (>3K)

Ideas

Fuel starvation? Enough of a trickle to keep it idling it seems but not enough to get any real power. Vacuum lock tends to be a time based thing so I'll try popping the fuel cap off, see if it improves. (BTW tank, petcock and pipes are all new, carb recently cleaned.)

Running rich? This would be more noticeable when the engine's warmed up. Quick test would be to pull the air filter and see what happens.

Running lean? I would have thought I'd have a bit more trouble starting it and the reverse: rough from cold but some improvement when warm. A cheeky bit of choke might help but actually it just stalls the engine.

Weakening Spark? Any way to check this with the bike running? Old coils and stators can do funny things once warmed up and corroded contacts can suddenly jump in resistance when warm. Certainly low down on my list of things 'cos... hassle Wink

Timing? I plead ignorance here as to whether it can affect the bike once warmed up. Contact corrosion resistance again I suppose.

Compression? Obviously metal distorts depending on temperature but I'll have to get my hands on a compression tester. Hopefully just some new piston rings required, if compression's down.

Valve Gaps? Only kidding Smile

So that's my Sunday planned out. Anything I've missed?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 28 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plug chop.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 28 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll probably order up a compression tester, seems like a useful thing to have anyway so I'll tag some spare plugs along with that.

I've had the case covers off a few times and they all look new and in good condition. Certainly the minor seals (kick start, oil pump) are still flexible and AFAIK they were all changed at the same time. Not seen any obvious evidence of 2-stroke oil creeping through. Gearbox pressure test is a nice easy one, thanx! Fuel is fresh from the pump BTW.

Comparing the petcock from an original tank to the new one I can't say anything jumps out of me. TBH the design looks more "free flowing" easy check if it comes to it - checking flow rates - although I'd think it'd affect both cold and hot performance if it was an issue.

I agree that the up-rated carb is a bit of a random element but I had almost zero luck with the VM24 copy I have. But then again it is one cast in pure Chinesium Wink

Thanks guys, great suggestions Thumbs Up
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bypass2
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 28 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

as said could be the bigger carb. try the mixture screw 1 turn out. choke plunger seals worn/damaged. is the oil pump set right. is the throttle slide worn/damaged. do you have pipe coming from petrol cap vent
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 28 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be anything

tappets too tight
valves need grinding in
bad fuel injector or ECU needs remapping
turbo vanes stuck
carbs need balancing
Points & condenser need setting/cleaning or replacing
wick in the engine needs trimming
or better quality paraffin

pick one
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:57 - 29 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Could be anything

tappets too tight
valves need grinding in
bad fuel injector or ECU needs remapping
turbo vanes stuck
carbs need balancing
Points & condenser need setting/cleaning or replacing
wick in the engine needs trimming
or better quality paraffin

pick one


Easy Wink
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 02:14 - 29 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

bypass2 wrote:
as said could be the bigger carb. try the mixture screw 1 turn out. choke plunger seals worn/damaged. is the oil pump set right. is the throttle slide worn/damaged. do you have pipe coming from petrol cap vent


Would the mixture screw affect the midrange power? I thought it was just part of the idle circuit Thinking The plunger looked okay when I cleaned the carb. Oil pump has been refurbed and the starting point set, I have a clear section of pipe to verify there's flow but I haven't gone as far as calculating the flow rate yet. Throttle slide is in near perfect condition.

No one-way pipe vent on the petrol cap - it's a traditional chrome one. I would hope it incorporates some sort of venting but hey, China eh? Vacuum lock is on my list Smile
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 29 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that makes more sense Smile It doesn't have an inner trumpet but there is a sorta upside down funnel on the outside of the box. It raises the air inlet to the highest point possible (just under the seat) but also offers some restriction. I was planning to ride it about till it started spluttering and then just whip the side of the airbox off to see what impact that had but the funnel might be a nice, low key alternative.

So, from what you're saying, I should probably go down from the factory spec rather than up, on the main jet Thinking Switching to premix would introduce another variable, would it not? I think I'm right in saying you'd up-jet in that scenario to compensate for the slightly thicker fuel.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 29 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mid range is needle. if you open it up and lots of noise but nothing else, it's probabaly weak ,try lifting the needle ( ie , clip in a lower slot.)
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 29 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Plug chop.

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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 30 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plug chops don't really show much on modern fuels, especially if the plug is relativley new. If you've exhausted all other options you need to get the thing on the dyno.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 30 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ummm... I haven't actually got to fiddle with the bike yet, sorry to keep you in suspense Sad This work from home lark isn't the slack-fest I was promised Crying or Very sad
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 04 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't really go anywhere so I waited until the wife had some bits she wanted from the shops and err... volunteered Smile

Got to one side of the town, no problems, got my shopping, headed back home. Just when I got to within 100 yards of my house it spluttered so first test: vacuum lock. I already had the key in the cap at the ready...

Seemed to work! So I took the cap apart to take a look at how it vents:

https://i.imgur.com/opUMb9t.jpg?1

I get the whole convoluted spiral deal but it all bottlenecks through a little 1mm (if that) hole. Is that enough venting?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 02:44 - 05 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll try again tomorrow if there's some need to be out and about. If not I'll wash the other bike, nice day for it they say Smile
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 03:14 - 05 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's with the mess in the centre of the cap? I'm going to assume rough casting but it looks more like someone took a file to it.

Have you got an airline to blow in the hole to make sure there isn't swarf hidden up in there?

Edit: Has the carb float height been messed with and could it do with a new float needle?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 05 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
What's with the mess in the centre of the cap? I'm going to assume rough casting but it looks more like someone took a file to it.

Have you got an airline to blow in the hole to make sure there isn't swarf hidden up in there?

Edit: Has the carb float height been messed with and could it do with a new float needle?


Loads of silicone grease, from the locking mechanism.

Just to re-iterate I can warm the engine up, ride it around for 5 to 10 mins before it splutters but no, the float height is original (as far as I can tell comparing to factory specs) float valve looks okay, no obvious damage.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 05 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That does sound like a coil issue but with a single I'd expect it to die and and not splutter.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 05 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The age of the bike could mean it's a bit of everything in the initial list going wrong but because the bike responded well to the opening of the fuel cap I'd still be concentrating on the air-fuel regulation.
For which the earlier suggested removal of air filter for a test run is the easiest next step. Symptoms point to a rich mixture. I'm going to assume that you've already ruled out an air filter lagged up with oily dirt.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 05 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just had a look at your DT thread, nice, is that your float needle?

https://i.imgur.com/2GRvuCh.jpg?1
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