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Purpose of brake caliper part

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Sweaty_Doughnut
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Joined: 16 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 08:15 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Purpose of brake caliper part Reply with quote
Can someone tell me what is the purpose of the rubber on the brake caliper that I have highlighted on the attached picture?

The rubber goes all the way through the whole and there is no nut or bolt that you can open on the opposite side, so not sure how you would get it out? I have checked the brake caliper and it's a little bit loose at that spot so not sure if I need to worry and how to fix it. The mounting bolts are 100% properly tight so no rattling there.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 08:25 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's to keep crap off the pin that the caliper slides on. If the pin seizes, you'll find that only one pad will make contact with the disk.

Loose rubber is OK as it's more like the end of a condom over the pin, if it's split you need to replace.
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Sweaty_Doughnut
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PostPosted: 08:45 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Is it actually possible to tighten the pin to the bracket at all?
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
- wrote:
The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
It's to keep crap off the pin that the caliper slides on. If the pin seizes, you'll find that only one pad will make contact with the disk.

Loose rubber is OK as it's more like the end of a condom over the pin, if it's split you need to replace.


Is it?
The caliper pin is at the top right with the R-Clip through it isn't it?
I thought it looks like it goes through one of the caliper mounts, with the other one the same but from the other side, so maybe it's just there for transit to hold the mount in place, or both mounting pins are rubber for shock absorption?


Is the capper only has a piston on one side then in order to be able to use two pads to squeeze on the disc then one side of the caliper assembly 'slides'.

Sliding Caliper.

As The Shaggy D.A. wrote, the rubber is to prevent road shite and brake materials gumming up the metal 'slide pin.
The pin will have a 'specialised' grease on it too.
Water Repelling Grease (non soap based).

https://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14273/css/Sliding-Caliper-Type-260.htm
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
- wrote:
The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
It's to keep crap off the pin that the caliper slides on. If the pin seizes, you'll find that only one pad will make contact with the disk.

Loose rubber is OK as it's more like the end of a condom over the pin, if it's split you need to replace.


Is it?
The caliper pin is at the top right with the R-Clip through it isn't it?
I thought it looks like it goes through one of the caliper mounts, with the other one the same but from the other side, so maybe it's just there for transit to hold the mount in place, or both mounting pins are rubber for shock absorption?


If the capper only has a piston on one side then in order to be able to use two pads to squeeze on the disc then one side of the caliper assembly 'slides'.

Sliding Caliper.

As The Shaggy D.A. wrote, the rubber is to prevent road shite and brake materials gumming up the metal 'slide pin.
The pin will have a 'specialised' grease on it too.
Water Repelling Grease (non soap based).

https://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14273/css/Sliding-Caliper-Type-260.htm
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Sweaty_Doughnut wrote:
Is it actually possible to tighten the pin to the bracket at all?


The pin should be firmly screwed/attached onto the bracket. There is usually a flat near the base to get a spanner on but they are sometimes welded The calliper body should be free to slide along the pin inside the boot.

With it off the bike, if you get the calliper in one hand and the bracket in the other, they should pull apart. It will then be obvious what is going on.

It is quite common to get corrosion between the callipoer body and the rubber boot which can make the movement very stiff. In that case, you need to push the boot out and clean up the corrosion in the hole with a bit of wet and dry on a thin dowel then re-fit. I usually use red rubber grease on this area. The boot camn land up damaged during this procedure and need replacing.
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Sweaty_Doughnut
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Joined: 16 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 10:43 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
Sweaty_Doughnut wrote:
Is it actually possible to tighten the pin to the bracket at all?


The pin should be firmly screwed/attached onto the bracket. There is usually a flat near the base to get a spanner on but they are sometimes welded The calliper body should be free to slide along the pin inside the boot.

With it off the bike, if you get the calliper in one hand and the bracket in the other, they should pull apart. It will then be obvious what is going on.

It is quite common to get corrosion between the callipoer body and the rubber boot which can make the movement very stiff. In that case, you need to push the boot out and clean up the corrosion in the hole with a bit of wet and dry on a thin dowel then re-fit. I usually use red rubber grease on this area. The boot camn land up damaged during this procedure and need replacing.


Thanks, I will double check if there is a way to tighten it as I can feel the bracket being a bit loose.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
- wrote:
Is it?
The caliper pin is at the top right with the R-Clip through it isn't it?
I thought it looks like it goes through one of the caliper mounts, with the other one the same but from the other side, so maybe it's just there for transit to hold the mount in place, or both mounting pins are rubber for shock absorption?


Shaggy is right, you are wrong. Thumbs Up

Sweaty_Doughnut wrote:
Thanks, I will double check if there is a way to tighten it as I can feel the bracket being a bit loose.


There should be a bit of play, it's required as a grease gap and so the caliper doesn't bind on the pin. as long as the pin isn't loose on the bracket it is likely fine, the caliper will self centre due to the brake pads pulling it into place when the brakes are applied.
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Sweaty_Doughnut
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Joined: 16 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
sickpup wrote:
- wrote:
Is it?
The caliper pin is at the top right with the R-Clip through it isn't it?
I thought it looks like it goes through one of the caliper mounts, with the other one the same but from the other side, so maybe it's just there for transit to hold the mount in place, or both mounting pins are rubber for shock absorption?


Shaggy is right, you are wrong. Thumbs Up

Sweaty_Doughnut wrote:
Thanks, I will double check if there is a way to tighten it as I can feel the bracket being a bit loose.


There should be a bit of play, it's required as a grease gap and so the caliper doesn't bind on the pin. as long as the pin isn't loose on the bracket it is likely fine, the caliper will self centre due to the brake pads pulling it into place when the brakes are applied.


I've just read on another forum that slight wobbling can happen after installing new pads, which is the case for me. I'm going for 400 miles trip so I will see how it behaves after that.
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mentalboy
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 09 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Sweaty_Doughnut wrote:
sickpup wrote:



There should be a bit of play...


I've just read on another forum that slight wobbling can happen after installing new pads, which is the case for me. I'm going for 400 miles trip so I will see how it behaves after that.


As pointed out, there should always be, in your words, 'slight wobble'. When you change the pads it is always a good idea to check the state of those pins, clean them up, if there's no damage then regrease and reinstall.
General rule of thumb is to replace the pin if there is wear on it, scuffing on it's surface is probably ok but any kind of indentation caused by wear needs replacing. It's not somewhere to take a risk on.

EDIT: And while you're cleaning the pin, use a small screwdriver to scrape as much of the old gunk out of the rubber and clean it up as best as you can be regreasing.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 10 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
It occurs to me that people including the OP are confusing a caliper pin which is what was asked about and a pad pin.
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mentalboy
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Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 10 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
sickpup wrote:
It occurs to me that people including the OP are confusing a caliper pin which is what was asked about and a pad pin.


I, for one, didn't even consider pad pins but should probably have made it a little clearer in the post above that I was referring to caliper pins, I just assumed that if you've got the pads out you'd have to be a bit of a muppet to need someone to to tell you to clean the pad pins before putting the new pads in.
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