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Impact Driver - Front Sprocket Removal

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Pedro1974
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Joined: 30 Apr 2019
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Impact Driver - Front Sprocket Removal Reply with quote

Hi

Could anyone tell me if I can use a manual impact driver (Hit with hammer type) on a 32mm nut?

I’m presuming that I will need a powered one but I can’t find anything that tells me which I need ???????

Thanks in advance
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 12:36 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something says to me that axially belting the nut/sprocket, which is attached to the mainshaft is not a very good thing to do.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you wanting to use an impact driver because the nut is too tight to undo with a spanner or because the nut is rotating?

I would be wary of using a manual impact driver either way for the reasons stated above.

Edited to add - What bike?
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Last edited by Polarbear on 12:46 - 13 Apr 2020; edited 1 time in total
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dynax
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Re: Impact Driver - Front Sprocket Removal Reply with quote

Pedro1974 wrote:
Hi

Could anyone tell me if I can use a manual impact driver (Hit with hammer type) on a 32mm nut?

I’m presuming that I will need a powered one but I can’t find anything that tells me which I need ???????

Thanks in advance


2 man job, need someone to hold the driver steady while you hit it as hard as you can with a 10lb sledgehammer Thumbs Up
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be better off buying an electric impact wrench, corded are cheaper, these drive the socket round and round, instead of BASH🢂axially and also round and round.
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I were you I would put the bike in gear, get someone to stand on the rear brake, make sure there is no tab washer still bent up, put some heat into the nut with a paint stripping gun or similar for about a minute then have a go with a long breaker bar and a decent socket.

I was struggling with an air impact gun a month or so ago on a 27mm front sprocket nut, the thing was laughing it off and it was the heat bit that finally solved it, wish I'd done that the first time. It flew off after the heating, felt like I could have undone it by hand if I'd done that first.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Re: Impact Driver - Front Sprocket Removal Reply with quote

dynax wrote:


2 man job, need someone to hold the driver steady while you hit it as hard as you can with a 10lb sledgehammer Thumbs Up


I know you’re being tongue in cheek with your advice.
But advising someone who has come on here to do that ,could end in disaster if they thought you were being serious .
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dynax
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Re: Impact Driver - Front Sprocket Removal Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
dynax wrote:


2 man job, need someone to hold the driver steady while you hit it as hard as you can with a 10lb sledgehammer Thumbs Up


I know you’re being tongue in cheek with your advice.
But advising someone who has come on here to do that ,could end in disaster if they thought you were being serious .


Typing in a search engine takes no more or less time than asking on here and will show up more results showing him ways of actually doing the job, only takes some common sense which seems lacking in the majority of today's society,
so if he was to take my advice more fool him Laughing
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Re: Impact Driver - Front Sprocket Removal Reply with quote

dynax wrote:


Typing in a search engine takes no more or less time than asking on here and will show up more results showing him ways of actually doing the job, only takes some common sense which seems lacking in the majority of today's society,
so if he was to take my advice more fool him Laughing


It's not so much common sense, it's that many of the younger ones today have no knowledge of how to use tools properly and the repercussions of using them incorrectly. That's not because they are stupid but most of them never learnt how to spanner with their Dads when he was working on the family car or with like minded idiots keeping a C90 going as a grass tracker like some of the older people did. It just doesn't happen much now.

I cringe when I see some people using the wrong tool because it can be bloody dangerous. A case in point was a farmer repacking a valve on his farm. He used a file tang to dig the packing out and it broke, with a piece flying up into his eye. He lost his sight in that eye. He didn't understand that a file is hard and brittle, the last thing you want to shock load or stress.

So while to you and me it might seem obvious or common sense, to others it's a learning curve and they might take what you say literally. A bit why Tef sometimes gets stick.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:39 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Re: Impact Driver - Front Sprocket Removal Reply with quote

dynax wrote:
Typing in a search engine takes no more or less time than asking on here and will show up more results showing him ways of actually doing the job

No need for "The Workshop" then, it's all available by search engine.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

yen_powell wrote:
If I were you I would put the bike in gear, get someone to stand on the rear brake, make sure there is no tab washer still bent up, put some heat into the nut with a paint stripping gun or similar for about a minute then have a go with a long breaker bar and a decent socket.

What a good idea! Thumbs Up

A 75C temperature change, for example, will expand the nut and increase its diameter by approximately 0.03mm, which will relax the grip it has (think about the thread angle).

I'd be inclined to use a heat source a bit more concentrated/faster than a paint stripping gun, and try to heat the sprocket/nut rather than the mainshaft end, to maximise the temperature differential though.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

- wrote:
I have a 5ft length of heave steel pipe for this very reason.


What's it's circumference?
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Pedro1974
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All

Thanks for all your advice, and yes, I guessed the sledgehammer quote was a joke!
I’m going to bite the bullet and take it to a shop as I’m going to break something on the bike with the amount of force/leverage I’m putting through it.

Last bit of advise if I may; I’ve gone to put the sprocket cover back on and now I’ve got no clutch lever, so I removed again and there isn’t anything to tension the clutch cable. Is there supposed to be a return spring or something in there?

It’s bad enough that I’m having to pay someone to undo a bolt but now I can’t even get the bike to the bloomin shop!!!
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it a yamaha? They have the clutch cable on the near side and a pushrod through the engine to the clutch.

You need to ensure you align the cover with the pushrod before you put it on.
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Pedro1974
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It’s a Suzuki GSXR750 K2
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kolu
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

yen_powell wrote:
If I were you I would put the bike in gear...

There actually is a reason to put the bike in neutral.
Like what this dude says around 5:05 here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOxBF80eMrI

Edit: something about bending shift forks as well, around 7 min


Last edited by kolu on 16:21 - 13 Apr 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the clutch cable dgo to the top of the casing you've just removed? If it does you need to ensure the clutch cable mechanism is correctly connected to the pull rod before you bolt the cover back on.
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would depend on the size of bike, but get a breaker bar or i use an old torque wrench (24 inch), something around this size with an extension going into the engine bay to allow some room, put it in gear, put your foot on the rear brake and try to also hold down the front brake, and or do this with the front wheel against something to stop it moving forward. If you have help great but if not, you'll use your left arm to un-do the nut, it's never failed for me....

If it's not playing ball it's either been over torqued or someone used too much loctite....

look out for a locking bolt (not the actual sprocket nut), or a locking washer that's been bent into the nut, this needs to be levered back to allow the nut to turn.

consider buying something if you don't have it, as you'll use it time and time again!! order online if no where open!!


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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kozesluk wrote:
yen_powell wrote:
If I were you I would put the bike in gear...

There actually is a reason to put the bike in neutral.
Like what this dude says around 5:05 here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOxBF80eMrI

Edit: something about bending shift forks as well, around 7 min


Thats bollocks. My 130 bhp engine cant bend them.

He clearly doesnt understand how a gearbox works.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well this thread made me think about if I need a impact gun , battery type.
Wow! They’re bloody expensive Neutral .
I think I’ll stick to six sided sockets and a long extension bar.

Unless someone can recommend a reasonably priced battery powered impact gun??

EDIT : they’re a lot cheaper on thief-bay.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Well this thread made me think about if I need a impact gun , battery type.
Wow! They’re bloody expensive Neutral .
I think I’ll stick to six sided sockets and a long extension bar.

Unless someone can recommend a reasonably priced battery powered impact gun??

EDIT : they’re a lot cheaper on thief-bay.

Picked a Dewault 18v impact wrench up for about £155, claims 1100lb ft of breaking torque.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine just undid the nut that holds on the rear wheel of my sprint. I know it was done up to 165nm ( as per the manual) and the wheel didn't spin despite being in the air.

Draper
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Unless someone can recommend a reasonably priced battery powered impact gun??

Why a battery one, not a corded one, unless you're usinhg it a lot? The battery one will need charging possibly every time you use it, and replacing batteries is rather expensive. Mains one? Plug it in, off you go. £60 to £70?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ryobi... it basically just coughs in the general direction of nuts and bolts and they undo Smile
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