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Advice please.. repairing CBR125 after recent theft attempt

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EvoUK
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Advice please.. repairing CBR125 after recent theft attempt Reply with quote

Hi guys,

I would really appreciate some advice on repairing my Honda CBR 125 following a recent theft attempt (sadly this occurred shortly after the Covid-19 lockdown began!).

The bike has been recovered and appears to be in good condition with the exception of a broken the steering lock (with steering moving freely now) and assumingly hotwired based on the black and red cable pair hanging off and no cables attached to the existing barrel.

I am planning to attempt the repair myself as my local garages have quoted around £300 for supply and fitting.
I found a new barrel kit on eBay £30 (see the attached photo), hopefully, this has everything I need for the repair?

Note: I am a novice when it comes to mechanical repairs but do have some competence with DIY and household electrics/plumbing.

I found a couple of online guides on replacing the ignition barrel which seems pretty straight forward process, however..

i) The new ignition barrel has a white socket at the end of its cables. I was wondering whether it would be OK to connect these cables directly to the existing ignition cables using a male variant of the same socket? Also, any ideas on what the white cable socket is called? as I am having trouble locating one.
ii) Am I correct in understanding that the ignition barrel unit is also the steering lock? So replacing this will provide me with the ability to apply steering lock again.

Would also appreciate any other suggestions on factors I am missing or need to consider?

Thanks in advance

New ignition barrel: https://ibb.co/dMLgGJ2
Disconnected cables on bike (hotwired?): https://ibb.co/XYVFqWx
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 10:36 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=161626

You can search these forums by putting into your favourite search engine:

various search terms site:bikechatforums.com

Not sure about the socket.
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P.addy
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Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 10:42 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a terrible ignition.

What year is your bike.
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EvoUK
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh really?

2014 (64) plate.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

EvoUK wrote:
Oh really?

2014 (64) plate.


Yeah, assuming you've bought the £30 all in one bundle thing. The ignition is made of cheese. If anything get the original ignition, it'll plug in further down the loom and is 2 wires.

Use the other keys and stuff if you've had to replace stuff, but the ignition will fail on you randomly for sure.
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EvoUK
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
EvoUK wrote:
Oh really?

2014 (64) plate.


Yeah, assuming you've bought the £30 all in one bundle thing. The ignition is made of cheese. If anything get the original ignition, it'll plug in further down the loom and is 2 wires.

Use the other keys and stuff if you've had to replace stuff, but the ignition will fail on you randomly for sure.


ok, thank you for your advice.
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Riejufixing
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Joined: 24 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 09 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

EvoUK wrote:
Various wrote:
....

ok, thank you for your advice.

You'll have to get the thing apart and see what can be done. I don't know how these particular ones work, but it's vaguely possible you can re-use some bits of the original, caouldn't really say, depends how near a copy it is. Honda ones seem to come out at £250ish, used £40-£60ish, this may give you an idea what bits you will find: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FULL-LOCK-SET-Honda-CBR-125-11-17-FI-SPORTS-WARRANTY-7389146/142993617525?hash=item214b157275%3Ag%3AliUAAOSwvd9d76yP&LH_ItemCondition=4

Edit: I might be tempted to take your broken bits apart now, have a look at what you have, and if you think you can make it work, go for it, else send it back complete and undamaged after having bought the eBay one (IF it's the correct one...).
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EvoUK
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 11 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I am currently in the process of replacing the ignition switch but am really struggling with removing with yoke.
After removing the both handlebars and the 2 bolts located toward the right and left side of the yoke, I assumed that I should be able to lift the yoke away from the bike but it doesn't seem to budge at all..

Is there a particular trick to releasing this or am I missing something obvious?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZKDlBv-7dQVrHH0OgIKOd5HSQp22Uffc/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZL4VaEy0sw-xQd11RXvNLQ_hC_d43pph/view?usp=sharing
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 11 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

EvoUK wrote:
Is there a particular trick to releasing this or am I missing something obvious?

Try getting a soft drift, e.g. a piece of wooden batten, or dowel, or what have you, placing the end of it under the top yoke near the stem, and giving the other end a sharp but light tap with a hammer, as if you are trying to knock it in an upwards direction, then it should free up.
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EvoUK
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still struggling lifting out the yoke.

I attempted to use a rubber mallet to knock the yoke free... which did partially help get the yoke moving but only about a cm before it got caught on the plate below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZL4VaEy0sw-xQd11RXvNLQ_hC_d43pph/view?usp=sharing

The image above shows that the yoke seems to be attached to a metal bracket underneath, which is connected directly to the yoke two bolts (one on each side). I am struggling to remove these bolts as both appear to have completely rounded heads and are located within a tight position within the bracket (circled in the image below).. so I have no idea on how to remove these.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ig3lNq5NriJUJyyxakvRQHcFGRc62kJb/view?usp=sharing

Whenever I attempt to lift the yoke, the bracket underneath gets caught onto a small metal lip protruding from the bike's stem. I have attempted to rotate the steering but the bracket still seems to get caught onto this lip.

Any ideas please?


Last edited by EvoUK on 11:39 - 12 May 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The second image doesn't seem to be shared?
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Triumph Sprint ST 1050. And it's Red.
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EvoUK
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try this:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ig3lNq5NriJUJyyxakvRQHcFGRc62kJb/view?usp=sharing
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

EvoUK wrote:
I attempted to use a rubber mallet to knock the yoke free... which did partially help get the yoke moving but only about a cm before it got caught on the plate below.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZL4VaEy0sw-xQd11RXvNLQ_hC_d43pph/view?usp=sharing
...
Any ideas please?

Withdraw the fork stanchions from the top yoke? Drop the bottom yoke? Guess guess Smile
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Ste
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Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drop the fork legs out.
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EvoUK
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I appreciate the suggestions guys.

I don't have a motorcycle paddock stand. Would I be OK to lower the fork legs on the ground (whilst motorcycle is resting on its side stand?).

Also, am I correct that I just need to loosen the bolts on the lower yoke which should drop the fork legs automatically.

And to raise them again back to the same position, can I literally just raise them up with my hands and tighten up?
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

EvoUK wrote:
I don't have a motorcycle paddock stand. Would I be OK to lower the fork legs on the ground (whilst motorcycle is resting on its side stand?).

Also, am I correct that I just need to loosen the bolts on the lower yoke which should drop the fork legs automatically.

And to raise them again back to the same position, can I literally just raise them up with my hands and tighten up?

Chock it up on some blocks of wood or whatever you have, use smaller pieces on top pass obstructions and to seat on some suitable points, bigger under. You could pivot the bike up on its side stand and somehow chock it there I suppose but something stable would be a lot better. The front wheel, unless you remove it, will need to be off the ground.

Yes, the stanchions will slide through the yokes.
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