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Chain slack allowance beyond the spec

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Sweaty_Doughnut
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 18 Jun 2020    Post subject: Chain slack allowance beyond the spec Reply with quote

My manual states chain slack of 30-40mm on the side stand. The chain has 1000 miles and I have a minor tight point where the slack is 25mm, while the rest of the chain is 30mm. Finding that perfect spot is such a pain as if it goes to 40mm of slack changing gears is not smooth. Is it ok to live it as it is?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 18 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow what kind of chain is it that it hasn't lasted 1000 miles?

I'd make the tight spot about 35mm and go from there. Although, I've been riding for 22 years and never had any bike with what I would consider a tight spot on the chain, so either you're using a cheap OEM chain on a Chinese 125, or you're not lubing it enough.
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Sweaty_Doughnut
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 18 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Wow what kind of chain is it that it hasn't lasted 1000 miles?

I'd make the tight spot about 35mm and go from there. Although, I've been riding for 22 years and never had any bike with what I would consider a tight spot on the chain, so either you're using a cheap OEM chain on a Chinese 125, or you're not lubing it enough.


Actually, I'm having a DID ZVM-X on a 750cc bike Smile. I lube it every 300 miles and the sprockets are new as well. Maybe the shape of the sprocket is not perfect hence it creates that minor difference.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 18 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

750cc Which bike?
Trail type bikes need more slack than most bikes so what slack have you when laden?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:04 - 19 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something you do with fixie bicycles is to find the tight spot, loosen the chainring bolts, whack the chain with a spanner then retighten them. That's because the chainrings are not a 100% perfect fit on fairly widely spaced bolts. It does reduce the amount of uneveness between the tightest and loosest spots.

I often wondered if you could do something similar with a rear sprocket and a bigger spanner.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 04:58 - 19 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tight spot is usually due to an out-of-roundness of a part of the transmission. A tight spot in a chain is easy to find as the chain will have a kink where the links are tight and resist free movement. There should only be a microscopic amount of tension due to the pressure from the seals. Tight spots are very difficult to move.
You can find the out-of-roundness in the sprocket by fixing a pointer to the frame or possibly on the ground. It has to be quite firm and substantial for better accuracy. Pointer touching the chain where it wraps around the sprocket and rotate the wheel.
Any out-of-round will be easily seen where the pointer doesn't touch the chain.
(You could pedant this check and use a DTI.)
The sprocket bolt holes are either not concentric or the teeth are not machined properly.
Who made the sprocket?

The slack is a tolerance anywhere between the measurements is acceptable (as far as OEM engineering is concerned).
A few mm outside won't be a show stopper but may mean more frequent check and adjustment.


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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Trail type bikes need more slack than most bikes so what slack have you when laden?

I agree with jaffa. Chain slack decreases as the suspension is loaded. This due to the difference between swing arm length and chain length (the swing arm pivot is closer to the rear wheel than the countershaft sprocket). I always check my chain slack while seated on the bike, and adjust accordingly. Lube frequently, at least once per tank fill-up, more is better. I had a DID chain on a VFR with 49K miles on it when I sold the bike, and it was still serviceable...went 13000 miles between adjustments at one point. In regard to chain slack, a little loose is better than a little tight.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
. Lube frequently, at least once per tank fill-up, more is better. I had a DID chain on a VFR with 49K miles on it when I sold the bike, and it was still serviceable...went 13000 miles between adjustments at one point. In regard to chain slack, a little loose is better than a little tight.


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Last edited by xX-Alex-Xx on 13:46 - 22 Jun 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is where Scottoilers are worth their weight in gold.[/quote]
Yep, they really do the job
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MCN
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PostPosted: 05:08 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
jaffa90 wrote:
Trail type bikes need more slack than most bikes so what slack have you when laden?

I agree with jaffa. Chain slack decreases as the suspension is loaded. This due to the difference between swing arm length and chain length (the swing arm pivot is closer to the rear wheel than the countershaft sprocket). I always check my chain slack while seated on the bike, and adjust accordingly. Lube frequently, at least once per tank fill-up, more is better. I had a DID chain on a VFR with 49K miles on it when I sold the bike, and it was still serviceable...went 13000 miles between adjustments at one point. In regard to chain slack, a little loose is better than a little tight.


There are not many OEM that suggest checking chain slack loaded.

The 'free-play' calculation allows for the difference. (The OEM know that loaded-unloaded suspension changes the frame/wheel geometry. Smile)
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Each to there own, at the end of the day you need chain slack when the bike is in use, more so over pot holes and bumps.

20 mm minimum slack (in the manual) on the xjr 1300 & 1200 bandit on the centre stand is too small as i have experience stretched chains years ago.

Watch them chains wagging away on the moto gp and world superbikes and they are going fast.
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Sweaty_Doughnut
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all. I have decided to re-adjust the chain and I'm more on the loose side now, around 38mm.
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Ste
Not Work Safe



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PostPosted: 13:30 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
20 mm minimum slack (in the manual) on the xjr 1300 & 1200 bandit on the centre stand is too small as i have experience stretched chains years ago.

The XJR1300 manual says to put the bike on the side stand when setting the chain tension. Wink

Oh and it's not meant to be 20mm minimum slack.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
jaffa90 wrote:
20 mm minimum slack (in the manual) on the xjr 1300 & 1200 bandit on the centre stand is too small as i have experience stretched chains years ago.

The XJR1300 manual says to put the bike on the side stand when setting the chain tension. Wink

Oh and it's not meant to be 20mm minimum slack.


Where is your info?
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611382/Yamaha-Xjr1300.html?page=64
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Ste
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1161572/Yamaha-Xjr1300.html?page=67
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1161572/Yamaha-Xjr1300.html?page=67


That`s even worse, ( Drive chain slack:5.0–15.0 mm (0.20–0.59 in).
This setting will knacker / stretch the chain / stress the bearings.

I ended up setting mine at 40 mm on centre stand solo riding and prevent more chain stretch.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The manual you linked to and the manual I linked to are for different bikes. Wink
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
The manual you linked to and the manual I linked to are for different bikes. Wink

Makes no difference, all of my umpteen bike chains tighten when that swing arm goes upwards, never known one that goes slacker.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 01:40 - 28 Jun 2020    Post subject: Re: Chain slack allowance beyond the spec Reply with quote

Sweaty_Doughnut wrote:
My manual states chain slack of 30-40mm on the side stand. The chain has 1000 miles and I have a minor tight point where the slack is 25mm, while the rest of the chain is 30mm. Finding that perfect spot is such a pain as if it goes to 40mm of slack changing gears is not smooth. Is it ok to live it as it is?


25-30mm range is fine. If the chain is good, on a 600-1000cc bike that range should last for 20k miles depending on where it started.

In other words. Not worth worrying about (i tend to aim for 30-35mm).
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