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Brake Disc Bolt help!

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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Brake Disc Bolt help! Reply with quote

Got a Honda CB500 1998 'S' model and needing to replace brake discs. Just after some advice or tips on easiest way to crack the brake disc bolts loose. Those fuckers are threadlocked in there. Allen key heads on them
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

1) You want ''impact'' force, not huge amounts of slowly applied torque.

2) Loosen the bolts while the wheel is still on the bike, it will be easier this way.

EDIT: Also make sure the bolt heads (where you stick the allan key) are clean and the ''key'' is properly seated before you start removing the bolts.

I'd do it with a ratchet. An impact driver would be perfect, I guess.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hit them with the Rothenberger torch.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Electric or windy gun.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heat and a very well fitting hex tool.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, heat to melt the threadlock, or expand any other corrosive bond. I have a digital heat gun, cheap but good.

Torx fit hex, sometimes better then hex if it's already chewed.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Breaker bar will work too. Clean out the allen with a wire brush/rotary tool first to make sure its snug/hammer it in.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. All the bolt heads are in good nick, no damage or anything. Dont know the last time they were changed so that is why I am dreading them stripping out.

I do have the option of giving it to the garage to fit for me, but if i can get them off i'll save on labour costs. I hate using allen keys at the best of time, they've a tendency to never sit properly; which is putting me off using an allen key with a breaker bar.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

RickTaff wrote:
I hate using allen keys at the best of time, they've a tendency to never sit properly; which is putting me off using an allen key with a breaker bar.


So do I, however I got all the allen head disk bolts out of a bike that hadn't turned a wheel in 30 years, using an allen key and breaker bar, had no problems at all!
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

iirc they only have around 15-20nm on them so should undo pretty easily with the breaker.

I'd go for it yourself, I found on my current ride, someone had the wheels sprayed. When putting the discs back on, they crossed threaded one of the bolts in at a angle (I imagine just trying to put it back together fast with a rattle gun..).... Was a fun one to deal with as you can imagine.
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1198
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ended up hammering a slightly oversized Torx driver into my Allen heads as the heads were rounding. Not ideal but they did come out with a struggle.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you havent tried. Thread locked means no rust, slightly more torque than a fresh plain bolt but well within spec. Hex cap heads are harder, less likely to round off than a nornal bolt head. Just use a decent allen key or bit. Disk bolts I have only had problems on a chinese 125 without thread lock and it was cheaper to replace the wheel than buy new bolts!

Decent bolts, 12.9' s from a reputable supplier will never round.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Sounds like you havent tried. Thread locked means no rust, slightly more torque than a fresh plain bolt but well within spec. Hex cap heads are harder, less likely to round off than a nornal bolt head. Just use a decent allen key or bit. Disk bolts I have only had problems on a chinese 125 without thread lock and it was cheaper to replace the wheel than buy new bolts!

Decent bolts, 12.9' s from a reputable supplier will never round.


Tell ste that. He managed to snap a teng bit of mine trying to undo the crank of his 6 month old cycle that had been put together with thread lock.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Tell ste that. He managed to snap a teng bit of mine trying to undo the crank of his 6 month old cycle that had been put together with thread lock.


1) Ste.
2) Ste.
3)
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, update is that they came out a piece of piss. Stuck allen key into bolt head, tapped it home with a hammer so it was sitting snug. While allen key was seated I gave it a "gentle" tap shall we say anti-clockwise and they cracked loose lovely. We suspected no threadlock was applied when last changed, was there though.

Front and rear discs all done Very Happy

Fucking rear brake master cylinder needs repairing now... sigh
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Sounds like you havent tried. Thread locked means no rust, slightly more torque than a fresh plain bolt but well within spec. Hex cap heads are harder, less likely to round off than a nornal bolt head. Just use a decent allen key or bit. Disk bolts I have only had problems on a chinese 125 without thread lock and it was cheaper to replace the wheel than buy new bolts!

Decent bolts, 12.9' s from a reputable supplier will never round.


Did Teffers teach you engineering?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 24 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Sounds like you havent tried. Thread locked means no rust, slightly more torque than a fresh plain bolt but well within spec.


It's funny, I know this lad who had problems with set of forks where someone had threadlocked the damper bolts, he had to drill the bolts and then clamp the shuttle to get the bolts out because the threadlock worked so well. Definitely took more than 'slightly' more torque to get them apart. Thumbs Up
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

They were easy to remove once I had established your advice was completely incorrect. Thread lock is specifed in the service manual for most bikes damper bolts and disc bolts.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
They were easy to remove once I had established your advice was completely incorrect. Thread lock is specifed in the service manual for most bikes damper bolts and disc bolts.


Most bikes you don't have to drill out the damper bolts to strip the forks. Most people with a brain would realise this isn't normal and adjust what they do to suit.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now, now ladies - handbags down.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ease of removal and dissasembly of components is often not cared for in the design. You seem to think it plays a big part of design choices. Most forks would only be stripped once or twice maximium in a bikes lifetime. You are yet to share your claimed revision to Hondas assembly procedure. Feel free to reply about forks in the fork thread and keep OP's thread on topic.

You are suggesting that disc bolts, calipers, or any other fastners on a bike should never be assembled with the weak blue thread lock, which contradicts all service manuals I have seen.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
You are suggesting that disc bolts, calipers, or any other fastners on a bike should never be assembled with the weak blue thread lock, which contradicts all service manuals I have seen.


No I'm not suggesting that at all, perhaps you could tell me where I did suggest it?
Out of interest how many service manuals have you read as I've just checked the nearest one to hand and noticed that it doesn't say to threadlock caliper bolts just to torque them up. Are you sure you read this or did you just make it up?

I'm pretty damn sure your Honda CBR manual said to do the valve clearances which you didn't bother to do, I mean you didn't know how to do them which you lied about so why are you so obsessed with threadlock on everything?
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not quite I made a choice that it wasnt worth the time due to engines being common, cheap and easy to swap on this model, plus many say it is not nessasary.

I have read many manuals. It does state to use thread lock. Im sure you will tell me Honda has changed that too if youd care to back it up.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just give OP the credit for overcoming his fear of a failure and move on. Rolling Eyes
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