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Compression test

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WatchingGhost
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PostPosted: 09:51 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Compression test Reply with quote

Hello!

I was wondering if I want to do a compression test on my bike, the exhaust has to be installed for a legit result? The exhaust is on the cylinder. Two stroke 50cc water cooling bike.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both ports should be able to breathe.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why would it? You are testing compression, not flow. Whether or not the exhaust system is installed is immaterial to your test results.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a 2T, the compression only starts once both ports are covered so unless both ports are actually blocked so no air can get in or out of them then it makes no difference if the exhaust is on or not.

I know that reed valves will prevent escape out of the inlet but it can still escape out of the exhaust. To test the compression you don't strip half the engine apart, you just screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole.
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WatchingGhost
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just want to know because I have just finished replace the top end but also got for my exhaust a new paint so at the moment it is not installed.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
Why would it? You are testing compression, not flow. Whether or not the exhaust system is installed is immaterial to your test results.

Who`s testing flow, if both ports are blocked you cannot test compression readings over a number of revolutions.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
jeffyjeff wrote:
Why would it? You are testing compression, not flow. Whether or not the exhaust system is installed is immaterial to your test results.

Who`s testing flow, if both ports are blocked you cannot test compression readings over a number of revolutions.


How would having the exhaust on it block the flow?

You do know how a 2t engine works, dont you?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
Why would it? You are testing compression, not flow. Whether or not the exhaust system is installed is immaterial to your test results.


OP is maybe concerned that the back-pressure created by the zost on a 2t, which helps cylinder sealing, is part of a compression test.
But the zost will not create much back-pressure at compression test cranking speed/s.
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WatchingGhost
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone
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WatchingGhost
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way I have a problem one of my cylinder stud(there are 4 overall on the cylinder)When I have tried to tighten bolt on the cylinder head with the proper force(what is in the manual) the stud broke.I have already changed that stud and still happened the same. I have tried tighten with less force and the other three work great but this one not. What could be the problem?I guess this could cause lower compression and leak from the cooling water :S
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 03:36 - 26 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WatchingGhost wrote:
By the way I have a problem one of my cylinder stud(there are 4 overall on the cylinder)When I have tried to tighten bolt on the cylinder head with the proper force(what is in the manual) the stud broke.

Your problem suggests the stud is too long, or you might have debris (example: excess thread locking compound) in the case where the stud threads into. The head nut on that stud may be bottoming out before applying the clamp load to the head. Torque on the bottomed-out nut applies all the force to the stud and none to the head.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 09:03 - 26 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WatchingGhost wrote:
By the way I have a problem one of my cylinder stud(there are 4 overall on the cylinder)When I have tried to tighten bolt on the cylinder head with the proper force(what is in the manual) the stud broke.I have already changed that stud and still happened the same. I have tried tighten with less force and the other three work great but this one not. What could be the problem?I guess this could cause lower compression and leak from the cooling water :S


Double Check the Torque Specification that you are using.
For example 50lbft is much more force than 50lbin. Then there's Newton Meters Kgf cm kgf m. 😮
Use the O.E.M. specs as your starting point. Don't rely on information found on forums.
People sometimes think shite, talk shite, write shite and do shite. 😉
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 26 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
People sometimes think shite, talk shite, write shite and do shite. 😉

Dude. You are wise beyond your years.
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WatchingGhost
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 26 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be the problem that I haven't used any kind of compound? I just screw the stud in place.

The torque come from the service manual and the unit was checked. Plus the other three stud was totally fine with the torque.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 05:19 - 27 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WatchingGhost wrote:
Could be the problem that I haven't used any kind of compound? I just screw the stud in place.

Doubtful that lack of compound would affect the integrity of the cylinder head stud. Check to ensure that all four studs thread into the case equally. Buggered threads could have the same effect as debris in the threaded hole. Good assembly practice is to torque the head nuts in a cross pattern to 50% torque, then repeat at 100% torque. This helps apply an equal clamp load to the cylinder head. I suggest you torque to 50%, then check the cap nut washers to make sure the nuts are indeed clamping the head. If one is loose, even at 50% torque, that is not good.
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WatchingGhost
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PostPosted: 08:14 - 27 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks I going to give it a try!
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Robby
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 28 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the stud is breaking - presumably snapping in half - I would assume you have bought very cheap pattern studs.

Cylinder head torque settings tend to be around 30 lb-ft on an M8 or M10 stud. It should take more than twice that to snap a mild steel stud, but you could easily snap cheap stainless at that torque.

As a matter of course whenever you do cylinder heads, make sure all the bolts holes are clean and dry. I tend to poke a small screwdriver into the hole and wiggle it around to loosen any crud, then hoover it out. Then don't use any oil, grease or threadlock unless the instructions ask for it.
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WatchingGhost
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly in my service manual the torque is 50Nm which is around 37lb-ft, and this is an M7 stud(minarelli am6). I definitely going to try with half of it because I believe my replacement stud is not as durable as the original.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 09:49 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WatchingGhost wrote:
Honestly in my service manual the torque is 50Nm which is around 37lb-ft, and this is an M7 stud(minarelli am6). I definitely going to try with half of it because I believe my replacement stud is not as durable as the original.


That does seem rather high to me..
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pinch bolt for the chain adjustment hub on my sprint is only 55 Nm and that's got a 17mm head....
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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
The pinch bolt for the chain adjustment hub on my sprint is only 55 Nm and that's got a 17mm head....


Quite - head studs (M8 I think) on GT250 are 14.5 ft/lbs - although probably water cooled machines require higher torque
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WatchingGhost wrote:
Honestly in my service manual the torque is 50Nm which is around 37lb-ft, and this is an M7 stud(minarelli am6). I definitely going to try with half of it because I believe my replacement stud is not as durable as the original.

What bike is it?

A Rieju RS2 50 (Minarelli AM6) has:

Cylinder head nut M7x1 14-16nm Number of:4
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WatchingGhost
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PostPosted: 11:14 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is a Generic trigger Sm 50.I have just downloaded the service manual for the ksr version of this bike(which has liquid cooling as well) and it says 18-22Nm.But there was no problem with the other studs when I tightened them. But this aftermarket studs not strong enough so I going to try with 20Nm.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WatchingGhost wrote:
It is a Generic trigger Sm 50.I have just downloaded the service manual for the ksr version of this bike(which has liquid cooling as well) and it says 18-22Nm.But there was no problem with the other studs when I tightened them. But this aftermarket studs not strong enough so I going to try with 20Nm.

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MCN
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WatchingGhost wrote:
It is a Generic trigger Sm 50.I have just downloaded the service manual for the ksr version of this bike(which has liquid cooling as well) and it says 18-22Nm.But there was no problem with the other studs when I tightened them. But this aftermarket studs not strong enough so I going to try with 20Nm.


If uncertain, tighten until it strips the thread/breaks the fastener.
Then back-it-off 1/2 a turn.
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