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Honda CB 900 F starting problem

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The Sleeping Fisherman
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Honda CB 900 F starting problem Reply with quote

Hi all and thank you for reading.
My problem, last year I bought a Honda CB 900 F, all was fine and running sweet until the lock down last march where I was unable to go to work, used the bike a few times, but a lot less than going to work everyday on it, as from March it was starting to play up, little things like the Hiss lock, remove key put back in, it would start, then the bike was not used for about a month and it started first time, got to where i was going OK no probs but when I was about to start the bike to go home no ignition and then there was but it was a very low ignition light, first thought was low batt power due to not riding it much to keep up the charge, turned it off and tried again with the same result, very low ignition lights and low headlight, as I was on a very steep hill I bumped it and it started but was a little disgruntled about doing so and almost popped a wheelie, got back home with no running problems. I then went to start it again to go to shops a few days later to find that it would not start and was getting a loud clicking sound from the starter relay, low power from batt again, got another batt from another bike connected it and bike fired up but batt was to big for the housing so charged original batt for a few hours then put that back on the bike, all looked good bright ignition lights, push starter and get a click from starter relay, checked all fuses none blown, Hiss light flashing away when turned off, turn back on have ignition lights, click, thinking starter relay has gone, replaced with a new one, just to get same resulting click but now, there is no ignition lights, turn off and back on again, no ignition lights, start scratching head and look away then hear the fuel pump start up, ignition lights, same click, leave it switched on no ignition then a few seconds later there they are again power to bike, this go's on until the batt has used it's power so back on charge to find that now the batt is not charging, next thought is a dead sell in batt so get a new one, same result click from new starter relay but now it is a continuous noise from starter relay, this is as far as I have got and am stumped of where to look next, would really love to get bike back on the road again so any help or advice would be grateful, perhaps you have had the same problem with this bike, was also thinking, could it be the Hiss lock not letting me start the bike, this is the first bike I have had with a Hiss lock, but then again it allows power to the bike so maybe not, was also thinking could it be a stuck starter motor?. Brick Wall
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Tankie
Crazy Courier



Joined: 24 Feb 2017
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

check the earths on the machine are clean and tight
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The Sleeping Fisherman
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tankie wrote:
check the earths on the machine are clean and tight


Next thing I will be looking at tomozz now I have a decent tool kit, glad it has a centre stand, it will make it easier.
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jaffa90
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

""""" low power from batt again, got another batt from another bike connected it and bike fired up"""""

Have you a voltage / multimeter to check the battery voltage, probing the + & -- and then the + & frame and then + & engine.
Also when switching on, pressing the start button, with engine running?
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The Sleeping Fisherman
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: 00:47 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
""""" low power from batt again, got another batt from another bike connected it and bike fired up"""""

Have you a voltage / multimeter to check the battery voltage, probing the + & -- and then the + & frame and then + & engine.
Also when switching on, pressing the start button, with engine running?


Yes I have one, when it comes to electrical problems like this one, it's like trying to do algebra, strip a bike engine down to the gear box and rebuild, no problem.

Will not be able to do as said with the engine running, power from batt will only go as far as the starter relay and then just makes a continued buzz noise while holding the starter button, no electrical power of any sort will get to the engine to turn it over.

The bike now has a brand new batt so that will be fine, the process of elimination when it comes to electrical matters drives me Mad
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colink98
Could Be A Chat Bot



Joined: 27 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 08:19 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Sleeping Fisherman wrote:
the process of elimination when it comes to electrical matters drives me Mad


its the only way...
break it all down into simple tasks and remain calm.

otherwise half the engine will be on the floor and you will be none the wiser.
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ride sensible and not like an idiot and you wont get 6 points in one week.
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The Sleeping Fisherman
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: 10:29 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

ColinK98 wrote:
The Sleeping Fisherman wrote:
the process of elimination when it comes to electrical matters drives me Mad


its the only way...
break it all down into simple tasks and remain calm.

otherwise half the engine will be on the floor and you will be none the wiser.


Deffo on that one bud, have now managed to get hold of the Honda workshop service manual for this model in PDF form and ordered the same book on Ebay, (waiting for delivery on that), looking at the PDF, I have found roughly where I am up to with the loud click coming from the starter relay, which according to it I should get and do from both the old and new one, so it looks like, going by the PDF, that I have to one, check the ground which as already been mentioned, or two, put direct batt power to the starter motor to see if that turns or is faulty, bikes really remind of women, hard to work on and fathom out but great to ride Laughing
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Bru
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 01 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 23 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi.

If there is just clicking from the starter relay, that normally indicates a flat battery.

I think you should check the charging voltage across the battery, when you get the bike running. Should be ~ 13 - 14,5 V or thereabouts.

I could not work out if your brand new, fully charged battery was also just getting you clicking noises from the starter solenoid.

Lots of dead batteries suggests either a failure of the charging system, or a short has developed in the loom which is draining the battery even when the bike is turned off.

Check all the connections between battery and starter, and regulator/rectifier, and look for signs of overheating, melting, burning or corrosion which may signal a bad or shorted connection.

A method to check for leakage current is set the meter to current (ammeter) mode, and connect the meter between the battery negative and any part of the frame (which connects to the battery negative somewhere). See what you get with no ignition; probably something if the bike has an alarm (HISS?) or immobiliser built in, but others can advise of what value is OK or not OK.
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The Sleeping Fisherman
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bru wrote:
Hi.

If there is just clicking from the starter relay, that normally indicates a flat battery.

I think you should check the charging voltage across the battery, when you get the bike running. Should be ~ 13 - 14,5 V or thereabouts.

I could not work out if your brand new, fully charged battery was also just getting you clicking noises from the starter solenoid.

Lots of dead batteries suggests either a failure of the charging system, or a short has developed in the loom which is draining the battery even when the bike is turned off.

Check all the connections between battery and starter, and regulator/rectifier, and look for signs of overheating, melting, burning or corrosion which may signal a bad or shorted connection.

A method to check for leakage current is set the meter to current (ammeter) mode, and connect the meter between the battery negative and any part of the frame (which connects to the battery negative somewhere). See what you get with no ignition; probably something if the bike has an alarm (HISS?) or immobiliser built in, but others can advise of what value is OK or not OK.


Yes the brand new batt is getting the same results as the old, clicking from starter relay, including the new starter relay, yes the bike has an immobiliser built into the Hiss lock ignition, I also get power from the ignition when switching the bike on with the key, I'm sure that the immobiliser would not let that happen if that was stopping it from starting?, wouldn't it?, there is no alarm system on the bike yet.

Since I have got the PDF Honda service repair manual there has been the threat of rain everyday for me to check further any part of the electrics as I have to work on the bike in the open and this lock down is not helping as the bike repair garage 10 mins down the road is still closed Mad Mad
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you charge the new battery, or just bung it in? They normally need a charge before fitting.

Clicking from the starter relay is the classic symptom of a flat battery.

So, if the brand new battery was still giving you a click, charge it and try again.

If the bike now works perfectly, problem solved.
If it works for 20 miles or so and then starts cocking around, the charging system is suspect. Reg/rec would be the usual thing to break.
If it works in a totally intermittent way regardless of the amount of charge in the battery, you have a pain in the arse problem. Likely a loose earth wire.
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jaffa90
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 29 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
""""" low power from batt again, got another batt from another bike connected it and bike fired up"""""

Have you a voltage / multimeter to check the battery voltage, probing the + & -- and then the + & frame and then + & engine.
Also when switching on, pressing the start button, with engine running?

Any readings?????????? Whistle
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The Sleeping Fisherman
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 02 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Did you charge the new battery, or just bung it in? They normally need a charge before fitting.

Clicking from the starter relay is the classic symptom of a flat battery.

So, if the brand new battery was still giving you a click, charge it and try again.

If the bike now works perfectly, problem solved.
If it works for 20 miles or so and then starts cocking around, the charging system is suspect. Reg/rec would be the usual thing to break.
If it works in a totally intermittent way regardless of the amount of charge in the battery, you have a pain in the arse problem. Likely a loose earth wire.


The Batt is pre charged, connect and go as stated on the box, even the staff at Wemoto said that's all I had to do.
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The Sleeping Fisherman
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Jun 2020
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 02 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basically I have had enough of this problem, I get nothing from the multimeter, a big fat 0, reason, i cannot use one, the numbers are just pure latin to me even if i use google i still have no clue what they are saying, doing or meaning, i am at the point of finding a large 15lb sledge hammer and bashing the fuk out it and I don't just mean the meter, what makes it worse is that i trod on my glasses while working on the bike and now they do not sit right on my head Brick Wall Brick Wall Brick Wall.

Right now I am having a coffee and fag just to calm down then I am going to put a game on the PC and shoot shit, multiplayer, get someone to rage quit, then i will be Dance! ing.
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