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YBR125 cutom 2015 carburetor

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Perfect.A
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 24 Oct 2020
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 24 Oct 2020    Post subject: YBR125 cutom 2015 carburetor Reply with quote

Hey all I'm new to fixing up my bike. I've been looking up on how to remove and clean my carburetor but am unsure on what tools would be best to get and what kits there are out there. Has anyone got any advice on this please [/u]
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 24 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only universal tools are decent carb cleaner - specifically labelled as such, not general purpose cleaners - and some compressed air. After that the renewal parts are specific to the carb so find out the model name/number and search on that rather than the bike model/year as sometimes a bike might have various carbs over it's production lifetime.

BTW, you're not in Europe are you? (All EFI by 2015.)
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Perfect.A
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 10:56 - 24 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thank you. When I've looked it up I've seen various different things so got confused by it all. Once I get the Haynes manual I'll look it up in that too.
And yes I'm in the UK 🇬🇧
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Re: YBR125 cutom 2015 carburetor Reply with quote

Perfect.A wrote:
Hey all I'm new to fixing up my bike. I've been looking up on how to remove and clean my carburetor but am unsure on what tools would be best to get and what kits there are out there. Has anyone got any advice on this please [/u]


To work on any bike you need a basic tool kit.
To start you need a couple of screwdrivers a regular and a phillips head.
A couple of pairs of pliers -' combination' and 'pin' or 'long' nose.
A set of combinaton spanners so like open on one end and a ring on the other. In the sizes that the maker uses- usually 8, 10, 12,14,17, 19.
A little 1/4 drive socket set when lidl/Aldi have them on offer , Likewise a 3/8 drive set again when they are cheap somewhere.

Watch out on the combination spanners , some cheap ones have so much metal round the head that they are bulky and wont fit on lots of nuts 'cos they hit the casing, plus they are a really loose fit on the nuts, and slip off ( at the worse time).

Halfords Pro are good and reasonably cheap.

To just do the 'carb' ( or fuel injector) you would probably get away with a 10mm combination and the long nose pliers. Mind you , you would need to get the tank off......

Welcome to the world of tinkering.

Oh and some Allen keys.
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Robby
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Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The question I would like to ask is why?

Assuming the bike is fuel injected and runs, don't mess with it. You won't improve anything, but you could break it.
If the bike is carbed, I'm assuming you're young and have heard that fiddling with the carb makes it faster. This is not true, unless someone else has fiddled with the carb and you're putting it back to standard. Likewise, 17 year olds seem to have an obsession with cleaning the carb. If the bike runs and is in fairly regular use, the carb is clean. Petrol cleans carbs. They only get dirty when the bike has been standing for a long time (at least a year, more like 2 or 3), or when the fuel tank has water in (leading to water and rust in the carb).

There is no simple way to make a 125 faster. There are lots of way you can fiddle with it that will make it slower, or break it.
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Perfect.A
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

No mate I'm not 17 and it's not about trying to make a bike faster. But thank you for the patronising words. It's about performance and the lack of power. The bike was bought off an old man who wanted to recapture his youth but it was mainly left it in his garage. The fuel tank needs emptying to get the old shit out of it and the carb needs cleaning so that the fuel can flow better. After checking and changing everything else this is the last option(apart from a wiring issue which being the case I may need a hand if you're offering your expertise)
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Perfect.A
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 14:41 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Re: YBR125 cutom 2015 carburetor Reply with quote

[quote="steve the grease"][quote="Perfect.A"]Hey all I'm new to fixing up my bike. I've been looking up on how to remove and clean my carburetor but am unsure on what tools would be best to get and what kits there are out there. Has anyone got any advice on this please [/u][/quote]

To work on any bike you need a basic tool kit.
To start you need a couple of screwdrivers a regular and a phillips head.
A couple of pairs of pliers -' combination' and 'pin' or 'long' nose.
A set of combinaton spanners so like open on one end and a ring on the other. In the sizes that the maker uses- usually 8, 10, 12,14,17, 19.
A little 1/4 drive socket set when lidl/Aldi have them on offer , Likewise a 3/8 drive set again when they are cheap somewhere.

Watch out on the combination spanners , some cheap ones have so much metal round the head that they are bulky and wont fit on lots of nuts 'cos they hit the casing, plus they are a really loose fit on the nuts, and slip off ( at the worse time).

Halfords Pro are good and reasonably cheap.

To just do the 'carb' ( or fuel injector) you would probably get away with a 10mm combination and the long nose pliers. Mind you , you would need to get the tank off......

Welcome to the world of tinkering.

Oh and some Allen keys.


Thank you I have some of them tools but will be getting the rest. Theres a few I want to change and clean up but this seems to be the most important
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Odd, 2015 model but has a carb? I thought everything >2008 in Europe would be EFI Thinking
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Perfect.A
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 15:11 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Easy-X"]Odd, 2015 model but has a carb? I thought everything >2008 in Europe would be EFI Thinking[/quote]

That could be why I've been having so many confusing problems with looking it up. Even Google says its a carburetor issue and there are sites selling carburetors for my bike. The last time I came across a performance issue was when I was a kid and my cousin used to do all the work for us.
At the minute I've been trying to trouble shoot the problem and go through the easiest thing first.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Certainly the normal YBR was EFI by 2011. I'd be hard pressed to imagine Yamaha making the Custom variant a carb model.

Take a picture of the area behind the cylinder head, looking side-on.
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dynax
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 16:13 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is fuel injected, what the OP is thinking is the carb is probably the throttle body at the rear of the cylinder head Thumbs Up
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Perfect.A
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 17:07 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers all. I've just been looking at all and I think it may be fuel injected. I feel a little foolish now but glad I didn't order any parts and start taking it apart. Now I've got to try and figure out why it seems to lose power as I change gear
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect.A wrote:
Cheers all. I've just been looking at all and I think it may be fuel injected. I feel a little foolish now but glad I didn't order any parts and start taking it apart. Now I've got to try and figure out why it seems to lose power as I change gear

Give us a bit more detail. Mileage? Service history?
Initial thought is clutch, but that's literally pulled out my arse based on one bit of information from you.
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Perfect.A
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 17:37 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

5 years old and a little over 6000 miles. I have recently replaced the clutch lever. Every now and again I hear a pinging noise too
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect.A wrote:
Every now and again I hear a pinging noise too

More detail. When does this happen, where is it coming from?

Unlikely to be a worn clutch at 5K, even on a learner machine. Check your cables move freely. Chuck some WD/lube/oil down the cable as best you can, with a straw and, and you have a touch of freeplay before it starts biting.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 25 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petrol nowadays contains all sorts of crap. As the machine has hardly been used it's quite possible that the fuel injector is dirty/ clogged/ varnished up. As a cheap fix why not try running a can of injector cleaner through it. It can make a big difference on car emissions ( for the MOT), by improving the spray from the injector ( imagine a partially clogged paint aerosol spluttering) . For a tenner it's got to be worth a try.
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I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 26 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petrol itself is a solvent. Might benefit from a bit of a thrashing Smile
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davebike
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PostPosted: 07:44 - 26 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

from the perspective of a mechanic :-

Drain the fuel refill with fresh (not some that from the mower can)
Add injector cleaner
Dealers decoke (long fast ride )

if no better new spark plug and air filter
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