Extending steering lock stops on CBR600

[stinkwheel]

A 2000 CBR600FY (F4), alloy frame.

I'm dong a flat-bar conversion on this bike. Got the bars on and most of the difficult stuff done re-routing cables etc.

Now comes the issue of fairing clearance. I'll need to cut-down part of the screen and I've bought a used one off ebay to do this to.

What I also need to do is limit the steering lock slightly so the bars don't foul the fairing itself. This is a known thing, LSL make a £££ flatbar kit for them with a replacement top-yoke (I'm using clamps) and it has instructions for bonding lockstop extenders to the steering lock. Those are the instructions by the way, "bond the extensions to the lockstop".

I can't find any pictures of what they are using and was wondering if there is a common way of doing this? I'll need to add 3-4mm of material to the bump stops to get the correct clearance and I would rather not go through the rigmarole of stripping the whole front end to weld onto the bottom yoke.

I'm currently thinking of cutting/filing a piece of aluminium flat bar so it fits neatly over the frame lockstop then bonding it in place with some G-flex epoxy.

Really just want to make sure I don't do this then have someone say "Why didn't you just fit a parping couplet with a cable tie?".

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3czHK9H9ixX8t0mo_HyIDSzFegAS5MrJFCudzor-B5L518YBd8I30qJTS3IjZ_Ptzc4kZ9aUZN3YjofQId6KDiUO1JqE1163r_Wicd7V2XEDzUieV4tZdHr5PbaFCPxlX56Z1OZwKA5-Myw1ETb-sjM=w1147-h860-no
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MarJay]

In the old days of Supersport 600 racing I believe people used to drill and tap a hole in each lockstop, then put a bolt with a nut on it in the hole to act as a spacer. This has the added advantage of being adjustable.

Whether you want to drill the frame or not though... and it would probably need dismantling to get at...?
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[Pete.]

I'd either drill and tap for a M6 grub screw, loctited in, or turn a little top-hat insert, drill the stop and tap the insert into the hole.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[stinkwheel]

I did also consider getting a piece of malleable iron tube with an appropriate wall thickness and ID, epoxying the centre then driving it down over the yoke stop. Should deform to fit? It's a kind of tapered eccentric diamond shape.

Another option now I'm giving it a good looking at is to make up a little folded steel bracket that sits over the yoke stop and bolts to the front of the yoke, there is an M6 bolt into the front of the yoke on both sides for attaching cable clips to.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Riejufixing]

[stinkwheel]

[sickpup]

Usual would be to drill and tap the stops on the bottom yoke to M5 or M6. For a bolt with loctite and so have individually adjustable stops on each side.

[davebike]

Assuming it more than acouple of mm I go with the drill and tap methord I done it a few times ! For just a mm or two a blob of weld !
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Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com

[Riejufixing]

As he said, the idea is to avoid dismantling ("I would rather not go through the rigmarole of stripping the whole front end to weld onto the bottom yoke"). However, is making a thing of sheet metal and using existing fixing locations more work than dropping the bottom yoke out? Hm. I think I'd do the latter. However, it might perhaps be possible to clamp some steel padding to the lock stop and then buzz a drop of weld just on top to fix it, without dismantling anything.

[stinkwheel]

I've decided I'm going to bond some aluminium to the frame lockstop and if that fails, I'll drop the yoke and either weld or drill and tap it.

EDIT: Or, looking at the ebay ads below this thread, what about those plastic lock-stop thingys they use on track bikes that clamp onto the fork leg? I see no reason they wouldn't do the trick?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RRPS-Motorcycle-Steering-Lock-Stops/392506934671

I'm sure I can find a set of similar clamps in 39mm for much cheapness. Chinese steering damper clamps spring to mind, come in at a tenner each.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.