Sticking Clutch

[Natty MT]

Greetings

My 2008 MT03 is having what appears to be a seasonal sticking clutch that is making me a little crazy.

Here is a timeline.

04/10/18
Oil Motul 10-30 ss and filter changed.

I buy the bike end October 2019, the bike had only covered 2500 miles in 10 years.
All work below I have done.

2020
February/March first discover clutch sticking when in gear.
It can be released by warming engine and pushing bike in gear in all below cases, clutch works until engine cools then clutch sticks again.

27/04/20
Replace original clutch friction plates with EBC some wear on original plates, replace oil with Motul 5100 4T 10-30 ss and oil filter.

05/08/2020
Replace oil Motul 5100 4T 10-30 and filter due new clutch friction plate debris.

Clutch working perfectly from April 2020 up till last ride end October 2020

I tend to ride very little in the winter months so not until December 2020 discover clutch sticking again.

27/02/2021
Replace steel plates and oil clutch works again for short ride then sticks again when engine cools, friction plates had not dried out.

I have spoken to a trusted garage but when they mentioned it may need all Yamaha clutch parts I felt uneasy as the original plates had an issue and the EBC plates worked fine all summer.

I would rather not throw more money at it without knowing what the fault actually is.

The only constant seems to be the oil type but I am no doubt clutching at straws. I have searched the internet for the problem but have found nothing comparable aside from freeing a stuck clutch.

Any help would really be appreciated or other info I can advise please ask.
Thanks for taking the time to read.

[Nutty]

Have you tried a 10-40 weight oil?

[pepperami]

I don’t know enough/anything about that particular bike.
However for my twopence worth from my own experience.

If it’s sticking after standing/lack of use??, then maybe the oil does have something to do with the problem.?.

I remember a couple of my bikes in the dim and distant past developing sticky clutches.
When I took the clutches apart, the clutch basket* had developed ridges/become notched (hard to explain) .
Apparently it was partly down to old age of the bike and partly down to me trying to pull wheelies and letting the clutch lever go to quickly when revving the engine.

* google clutch basket?

That’s the best I can do!
____________________
I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[Natty MT]

[Natty MT]

[MG#43]

If it was me I'd take the clutch pack out, springs, drums etc, basket, inspect for bluing, wearing tabs, anything odd from one plate to the next. Refer to service manual if you are not used to doing this sort of thing of course. I'd refer to the microfiche for the clutch for that bike at www.fowlersparts.co.uk to check for anything that might not be right or even missing from previous work (it will show you the order in which the parts go together). I'd put the recommended oil in which appears to be 10/40w. Make sure you the specs for torque on the main nut and springs are set.

Bike oil has additives to assist clutches operate the way they are designed adding the right amount of slip, using the wrong oil isn't going to help unless you were told to use it for some clutch performance mods, which you have not mentioned.

What temp is it running at?

If no good, next step replace....

[Natty MT]

[Easy-X]

I always consider systems as a chain of events rather than isolated and self-contained things so the clutch is not just the basket it's also the arm, cable & lever.

Just a long shot but I'm wondering if you're looking in the wrong place

I'll also vote for 10W40. That's what everyone's selling if you type "MT-03 2006" into Google.

<addendum> Out of curiosity, whereabouts is the clutch engagement point when it is working?
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[Robby]

Before pulling the clutch apart again, I would do as Easy-X suggests and look at the operating mechanism.

A quick look at the exploded diagram on Fowlers shows that your clutch is a fairly conventional setup, cable operated with a lifting cam to push the clutch apart. Looks like the lifting cam pushes on a top hat in the middle of the centre bearing, and that pushes the whole thing apart.

If its sticking then the most likely problem is that the centre bearing isn't being pushed far enough. Things to check:

1. Cable adjustment, particularly at the engine end.
2. Lifting cam worn.
3. Centre bearing worn.

Could also be clutch plates getting stuck into grooves worn into the fingers of the clutch basket. Used to be a common problem with 90s bikes, 10 years ago. This bike is 15 years old so the equivalent of a 90s bike, 10 years ago.

[steve the grease]

It's a normal function of leaving something stood. If you rode the bike everyday it wouldn't be a problem . My XL250 always sticks , so I ride it along with the clutch in for a few hundred yards opening and closing the throttle until it frees off. Once the clutch has freed , it won't stick again as the oil warms up it all behaves perfectly. If you were to leave the bike with the clutch lever cable tied to the handlebars it wouldn't stick. You could change all the plates and the oil and it might still be exactly the same. I think I'd splash out on a packet of cable ties to be honest.
My Bedford RL would do exactly the same ( resulting in a partial strip to fix) , ended up using a stick to hold the clutch pedal down - end of problem
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All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....

[Natty MT]

Thank you all for the ideas and advice and such a quick response, this is a great forum.

I have tried keeping the lever pulled in overnight with a strap after having freed it and it operating ok, stuck again the next day leaning towards the plates not being the problem as they should all still be separated.

Clutch bites where it should in my experience.

Mechanism is a pull type and spring resistance and pressure plate release can be felt at the lever even with the piddly cable return spring 23 disconnected.
lever freeplay correct and cable length at engine end within spec.

Would love to ride every day but I am in the UK and dont enjoy one bit riding in the rain or cold, I know fair weather biker am I and it really shouldn't need to be ridden every day for the clutch not to stick.

pressure plate bearing is good with no grumbles when rotated.
There does seem to be a bit of play in the axle push (pull) lever 24 lower bearing 27 (I dont know why its called push as it actually pulls the pressure plate, suppose it depends on how you look at it).

Wouldnt any issues in the areas suggested be a constant problem rather than intermittent? thats whats driving me nuts it works fine for months and for a while when free then sticks again.
Maybe I have a fair weather clutch to match my fair weather riding

Anyway I really do appreciate you all taking time to reply Its been really helpful and good to talk it through with you all.

I guess the last resort is to stump up the cash and get it torn down by the indi garage at the end of this month and hope they find the fault as its now beyond my limited skills and comprehension.

The bike is in very good condition, aside from the clutch, low miles and fun to ride so would like to keep it for a while, at least to recover the upcoming costs.

I will of course return to let you know what the outcome is.

Thanks again and safe riding to all.

[BRUN]

have you tried a new cable ?

the clutch on my Yamaha was a bit sticky when I bought it, replaced the cable and its fine now

[Easy-X]

If you don't want to stump up for a new clutch cable and just "test the waters" so to speak you could disconnect it and route it round the the outside of the bike. Sometimes cable routes can be a bit torturous and "un-routing" them can highlight a bad cable/and or route.

Anyhoo, a free and non-destructive test (as long as you note the previous route!)
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[davebike]

I would as it has only done a very few miles suspect corrosion on the steel plates or the steels being warped
Low milage bikes do have clutch issues !
____________________
Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com

[Skudd]

I was having a clutch problem, turned out to be the heated grips had slipped round and stopping the lever going fully back. It could be something as simple and as daft as that. Look around all the components
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[A100man]