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zxr 750 choke issue

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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 04 Aug 2021    Post subject: zxr 750 choke issue Reply with quote

Hopefully some light can be shed on my issue

I have a zxr750 J1 1991 model, and on a cold start with full choke the idle RPM shoots to about 6-7k, and i just cannot seem to be able to even partially take the choke off at all, without it wanting to die. Revving that high it is horrendously loud! And it always has to be choke fully on for it to start, cant give it half, or quarter for example.

I understand you have to let the bike warm up and then it should start behaving correctly, but i cannot leave it on full choke at 6-7k for 10-15 mins, surely to god

Tried slackening the throttle cable, removing throttle cable off carb linkage thinking maybe it was holding the throttle slightly open, no luck.

Slackened off choke cable itself, too.

Just cannot work out whether this is simply common for ZXR750's, or whether it sounds more likely to be shit in the carb jets which needs cleaning out (which is tomorrows "to do" job), or maybe they're just out of sync? Totally at a loss.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 04 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know that specific bike but every bike I have owned with a manual choke, and I have owned many, has been totally controllable revs wise when warming up on the choke so I would certainly surmise something is wrong.

If, when warm and choke off the bike runs perfectly well I would guess I would be checking the choke mechanism, be it butterfly's, cable or whatever.

So carbs off and clean. Check operation of choke on all four carbs and cable. Check no rubbers are split or gone hard and leaking. Has the bike been standing for a while?

I'm sure someone with specific knowledge of that model will be along at some time with better information.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Classic '90s racing Smile Does the J1 have the CV or flat-slide carbs? And is it okay after it's warmed up?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:16 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like carbs need servicing as said (fuel level & cv i think), also do you use a fuel tap ?
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’d look for an air leak at the airbox seal or the carb rubbers.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 00:40 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Classic '90s racing Smile Does the J1 have the CV or flat-slide carbs? And is it okay after it's warmed up?


CV carbs mate. Tbh when its warmed up the idle can be a bit erratic too, like for example if i remember rightly, when adjusting the idle using the adjuster screw a slight turn clockwise or anti, would make the idle too high or too low, just couldnt quite get it right.

And even when on choke (this may be normal) you can see the RPM needle wandering up and down, albeit very minimally 100RPM give or take, it doesnt sort of sit at 3k and stay there,
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 00:42 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
I’d look for an air leak at the airbox seal or the carb rubbers.


Will check for that tomorrow, too. Im starting to suspect it is a leak at the rubber boots between cylinder head and butterfly opening, tbh


Last edited by RickTaff on 00:59 - 05 Aug 2021; edited 1 time in total
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 00:44 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Sounds like carbs need servicing as said (fuel level & cv i think), also do you use a fuel tap ?


yes mate fuel tap, on off res. No fuel pump on this bike. Have looked in the fuel filter and there is no crud in there, but will still check carbs.

Once carbs are serviced, should the issue continue, would a sync fix it?

Unless the previous owner has moved the needle clip up or down a groove, thats all i havent checked come to think of it since owning the bike
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having the carbs off to clean sounds like a plan, don't forget to check the rubber diaphragms for damage Smile

Given that this bike doesn't have a fuel pump (and you're taking the carbs off anyway) it wouldn't hurt to take a look at the fuel flow. While the filter doesn't look clogged it's good for peace of mind to see the petrol pissing out Very Happy
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Robby
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wasn't this a standard thing on 90s Kawasakis, choke was either on or off. Vague memories of ZXR400s at box hill sitting there revving their tits off on start up.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Having the carbs off to clean sounds like a plan, don't forget to check the rubber diaphragms for damage Smile

Given that this bike doesn't have a fuel pump (and you're taking the carbs off anyway) it wouldn't hurt to take a look at the fuel flow. While the filter doesn't look clogged it's good for peace of mind to see the petrol pissing out Very Happy


Ye will check the filter aswell. Rung a mechanic friend earlier who works on bikes and cars and his opinion is leaning toward a possible crack or split in the manifolds on the engine which carbs slot into.

With the age of the bike and rubber generally getting brittle - thats his guess. And without knowing when they were last changed, if at all, a good condition second hand set for say £20-30 is worth buying just to at least narrow down the possibilities. (or hopefully fix it)
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 05 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think i may have narrowed it down slightly Laughing

Just had a thought that when i had airbox off yesterday, i noticed my vacuum pipes to sync the carbs are already attached to the cylinder, and just sat underneath the airbox ready..... however

Each pipe has like a white plastic sticking out the end which the vacuum guage pipe attaches to, and whoever sync'd the bike last, or worked on it prior to my ownership, has not put the rubber caps back onto the white plastic ends. So i assume, obviously, it'll suck air in through there

Touch wood, covering those up with some makeshift stop gap until i can replace the rubber caps, will help in some way. Even if i got to really bodge it and wrap it in insulation tape just to test. Shocked Shocked
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A100man
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PostPosted: 08:49 - 06 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

RickTaff wrote:
I think i may have narrowed it down slightly Laughing

Just had a thought that when i had airbox off yesterday, i noticed my vacuum pipes to sync the carbs are already attached to the cylinder, and just sat underneath the airbox ready..... however

Each pipe has like a white plastic sticking out the end which the vacuum guage pipe attaches to, and whoever sync'd the bike last, or worked on it prior to my ownership, has not put the rubber caps back onto the white plastic ends. So i assume, obviously, it'll suck air in through there

Touch wood, covering those up with some makeshift stop gap until i can replace the rubber caps, will help in some way. Even if i got to really bodge it and wrap it in insulation tape just to test. Shocked Shocked


Could well be it! Brake bleed nipple caps might fit too.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 06 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

RickTaff wrote:
Even if i got to really bodge it and wrap it in insulation tape just to test. Shocked Shocked


Insulation tape is surprisingly ineffective. I would say jam a screw in there but not sure about these plastic fittings Thinking Anyhoo, take some care sealing up the ends.
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