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Yamaha YBR Clutch Doesn't Bite

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PsychoPigeon
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Joined: 12 Oct 2021
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 12 Oct 2021    Post subject: Yamaha YBR Clutch Doesn't Bite Reply with quote

I had to install a new clutch clamp, which meant taking the cable out of the lever to place it through the new clamp and back into the lever again. It was a little tricky and I did have to pull on the cable a bit to get enough slack.

Now what happens is with the engine on, the bike can go into gear without stalling with the clutch out. The back wheel spins quite fast as well. With the engine off and the clutch held in on 1st gear, I can just about move the back wheel but it's very stiff I don't know if this is an indicator of something. But the clutch does allow me to spin the wheel and when I let go the wheel locks again.
I've tightened and loosened the cable and found no discernable difference (although I can feel the tight/loosening of the cable), I've tried pushing the lever attached to the gearbox incase it wasn't falling back into it's usual position and was semi-disengaged.

Is it possible I damaged the clutch cable when trying to fit it back into the lever? Are they really that delicate?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 12 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you lost the free play at the hand lever and the actuator arm?
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PsychoPigeon
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 13 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Have you lost the free play at the hand lever and the actuator arm?


No I don't believe so, I can feel the freeplay adjusting when I tighten or loosen so in that respect the cable doesn't feel ruined. However someone did bring up a good point, although I've tried to push the gearbox lever while the clutch was in maybe I haven't pushed hard enough to completely disengage the engine which would indicate a ruined cable if I can manage to do that. I going to try that tomorrow.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:39 - 13 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

""""Now what happens is with the engine on, the bike can go into gear without stalling with the clutch out"""

This tells me that the clutch is disengaged all the time now, providing the rear wheel is on the ground.
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PsychoPigeon
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 13 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've also noticed that with the clutch in and feeling tuned, if I use the throttle in 1st gear the back wheel spins faster like the gears are still working. This is using the centre stand.
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 13 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

There will always be a slight drag in the clutch (and I mean miniscule) with the clutch disengaged.

If you can hold the wheel in your had with the bike in gear, running and with the clutch disengaged there is no problem, it's normal.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 13 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

PsychoPigeon wrote:
I've also noticed that with the clutch in and feeling tuned, if I use the throttle in 1st gear the back wheel spins faster like the gears are still working. This is using the centre stand.

You might expect to get a bit of drag like that normally if it's off the ground, especially with cold engine/oil.

Most likely the cable is damaged and simplest fix would be get another, or maybe what you fitted isn't really compatible. Even 1mm discrepancy in how much the cable is pulled will mess things up.
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 13 Oct 2021    Post subject: Re: Yamaha YBR Clutch Doesn't Bite Reply with quote

PsychoPigeon wrote:
I had to install a new clutch clamp, which meant taking the cable out of the lever to place it through the new clamp and back into the lever again. It was a little tricky and I did have to pull on the cable a bit to get enough slack.

Now what happens is with the engine on, the bike can go into gear without stalling with the clutch out. The back wheel spins quite fast as well. With the engine off and the clutch held in on 1st gear, I can just about move the back wheel but it's very stiff I don't know if this is an indicator of something. But the clutch does allow me to spin the wheel and when I let go the wheel locks again.
I've tightened and loosened the cable and found no discernable difference (although I can feel the tight/loosening of the cable), I've tried pushing the lever attached to the gearbox incase it wasn't falling back into it's usual position and was semi-disengaged.

Is it possible I damaged the clutch cable when trying to fit it back into the lever? Are they really that delicate?
Do you have a picture of the cable where it connects to the handlebar lever, one of the other end where it connects to the clutch arm or goes into the crank case and one of the central main adjuster? Just in case it's something obvious or simple and the cable is fine.
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PsychoPigeon
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 13 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:

You might expect to get a bit of drag like that normally if it's off the ground, especially with cold engine/oil.

Most likely the cable is damaged and simplest fix would be get another, or maybe what you fitted isn't really compatible. Even 1mm discrepancy in how much the cable is pulled will mess things up.


I've read that the back wheel will spin on the centre stand. The main thing that concerns me is when I hold in the clutch and rev the throttle the back wheel spins even faster shouldn't it be the opposite or not be affected at all?
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doggone
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 13 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

PsychoPigeon wrote:


I've read that the back wheel will spin on the centre stand. The main thing that concerns me is when I hold in the clutch and rev the throttle the back wheel spins even faster shouldn't it be the opposite or not be affected at all?

It would not be unusual to be able to build up momentum like that from a tiny bit of drag because the plates don't clear each other completely they are in oil which can be a bit sticky especially when cold.
This is why you often get that nasty clunk and shudder going from neutral to first.
If while it's spinning you can easily stop it with the rear brake (or even your hand - carefully) that's normal.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 14 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

When are you going to take all the good advice and get on with it ?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 14 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take the lever off and then you know the clutch should be disengaged entirely, perform your tests. Put the lever back on, test again... come back with the results of your experiments. For bonus points do a third test with the old lever.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 14 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Take the lever off and then you know the clutch should be disengaged entirely,


Eh?

You pull the lever to disengage the clutch. No lever equals no disengagement.
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