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Temperature/ Coolant Warning Light

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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Temperature/ Coolant Warning Light Reply with quote

Past week I’ve had three times where if I’ve been on a ride then popped into a shop for a couple minutes then come back out to the bike and started it: they engine temperature warning light has stayed on for about a minute then went off again.

The first time I thought it was a one time thing and ignored it. The second time, I popped off the panel that hides the coolant reservoir on the right hand side of the bike but it’s fine.

Also noticed it’s been popping and crackling when I am shifting up gears as well as down gears. I don’t know if it’s related at all I just put it down to using premium fuel because it only started doing it after that. Might not even be related at all.

Is it maybe a sensor that’s on its’ last legs? I have driven it 30 mile runs a few times between first and second time and it never illuminated any lights. It’s literally only happened when I’ve got off the bike while it’s warmed up (twice after getting off to pay after fuelling it and then the latest time was tonight when I nipped into my parents to collect some things).

Maybe it’s nothing at all or maybe it’s the sign of something? Anything else I should be looking at? It runs pretty good, sounds good and I don’t have any issues other than the fairing buzz that’s always been there since I got it and a squeaking noise coming from the front wheel that I was going to get checked out when it’s in for a full service soon.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:11 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the fan coming on too? It's usually on a seperate switch.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 02:41 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be wrong but I have vague memory of that bike having one warning light for 3 seperate faults
Oil pressure, coolant and battery

I have a diagram which shows this but isn't annotated to prove its for
your model so best check

It's bloody stupid idea if it is, couldn't live with that
I'd hoik it out leaving the oil pressure cable as is
and fit a temp gauge and voltmeter.

the 'crackling' may be exhaust header leaks
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Presuming it's not wired as WD says, which is utter madness, then first, is the fan coming on?

If the engine is already hot and you stop, with no air flow, then yes, it could be getting to the point of alarm but the fan should have come on before that.

Put bike on stand. Start engine and run it till the fan cuts in. If it doesn't and the temp light comes on, you have a fan problem. Either the fan itself or more likely the temperature switch. Check the fan by putting 12v diectly on it.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Might be wrong but I have vague memory of that bike having one warning light for 3 seperate faults
Oil pressure, coolant and battery

I have a diagram which shows this but isn't annotated to prove its for
your model so best check

It's bloody stupid idea if it is, couldn't live with that
I'd hoik it out leaving the oil pressure cable as is
and fit a temp gauge and voltmeter.

the 'crackling' may be exhaust header leaks


It has a separate warning light for oil pressure and one for electrical/ fuel system.

I will put it up on a stand tonight and see if its' the fan that's the problem, makes sense if I am moving and it gets enough airflow then it runs ok. Will check this out and get back to you.

The crackling is coming out the exhaust, when I ride at night I can see the little flares coming out the exhaust if I look back at it. My bike has a short end can and no baffles - it's obnoxiously loud and pops, bangs and crackles. I love it though.

What normally happens when shifting:

1. Rolls off throttle *popping*,
2. Changes down a gear,
3. Let's clutch back out *crackling*,
4. Rolls on throttle *bang*.

It's started popping when I let the clutch out after upshifting now too (but not banging when rolling on the throttle again).
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
Put bike on stand. Start engine and run it till the fan cuts in. If it doesn't and the temp light comes on, you have a fan problem. Either the fan itself or more likely the temperature switch. Check the fan by putting 12v diectly on it.

You can quickly check the circuitry and fan operation by removing the wire from the temp switch (single wire) and grounding it. In my experience, it is usually on the radiator and you can ground it to the radiator.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Worth checking for exhaust leaks. Don't underestimate the amount of damage a jet of hot exhaust gas from a leaking exhaust can do. It can make stuff very melty. Mate of mine melted a 'tunnel' clean through the coolant bottle on his KLR650 when he had a leaky header pipe. The plastic re-solidified as it melted through leaving the bottle still full but with a hole you could poke your finger through.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you remind us of any mods to the air intake, exhaust, fuel system, etc. done to this bike?
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Could you remind us of any mods to the air intake, exhaust, fuel system, etc. done to this bike?


Only ones of them that I know of is the Black Widow full system.

https://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/ninja-er-6n-er-6f-er650-05-11-low-level-decat-exhaust-system-230mm-oval-stainless-silencer-18894-p.asp

Previous owners could have done something to air intake, fuel, etc but I don't know about it. It does have a raspy induction noise that's a little more throaty than the only other ER-6 I have been around but it's not even that much different to other bikes I've heard in person (intake wise).

The only electrical mods I know that's been done are not performance mods - just comfort/ quality-of-life in the heated grips and gear indicator.

Everything else has been cosmetic/ quality-of-life to make it more confortable - custom gel and foam seat, barkbuster handguards and a taller touring screen.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aftermarket zorst and no Baffles eh?
It could be lack of back pressure then so on the valve overlap
some of the air/fuel getting sucked in to the chamber runs straight out
the exhaust port to assplode in the pipe.

very theatrical and loud but not the most fuel efficient
If its leaning out the engine this can raise cylinder temperatures too
I'd suggest taking a look at your plug colours to get an idea of
what's going on

In the absense of baffles a db killer would give it some back pressure
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 16:24 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
In the absense of baffles a db killer would give it some back pressure


Can confirm. The zorst that came with GSR was pretty much straight-through, and with no PC5 on the bike it ran like shit low down at low throttle. The db killer that came as part of the exhaust (but hadn't been installed) brought it back into the acceptable range again (not perfect but livable).
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the above notwithstanding. It would seem odd for it to be leaned out enough to make the temperature warning cut in after parking it up for long enough to goto the shop. If it was that bad, I'd expect problems while riding in town. I'd also expect the fan to be on.

A replacement temperature sensor for an ER6 is less than £20...
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
All the above notwithstanding. It would seem odd for it to be leaned out enough to make the temperature warning cut in after parking it up for long enough to goto the shop. If it was that bad, I'd expect problems while riding in town. I'd also expect the fan to be on.

A replacement temperature sensor for an ER6 is less than £20...


I went out riding on it for a good hour and the fan came on at some point during the journey. I couldn't hear it while I was riding so I don't know at what point during the journey it did but it was whirring when I stopped and jumped off the bike while it was still running to check.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be worth checking the thermostat too in case it's stuck partially closed.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:
I went out riding on it for a good hour and the fan came on at some point during the journey. I couldn't hear it while I was riding so I don't know at what point during the journey it did but it was whirring when I stopped and jumped off the bike while it was still running to check.

This is very odd. Normally, forward momentum will force enough air through the radiator to keep the engine at normal operating temperature. Fan operation while riding is abnormal; either the engine is indeed overheating, or the radiator fan thermo switch is malfunctioning.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

xX-Alex-Xx wrote:
Might be worth checking the thermostat too in case it's stuck partially closed.

If the engine is indeed overheating, it is probably due to one of these two possible causes: A. lack of air flow through the radiator, usually caused by damaged fins or debris blocking air flow. B. lack of coolant flow through the water jacket, which could be caused by a broken or stuck thermostat, clogged radiator, or failing water pump.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 15 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, a full reservoir is not the same as a full radiator. Is the radiator full? Check by removing the cap with a cold engine.

A pressurised water jacket from something like a small head gasket failure can empty the radiator through the reservoir leaving some fluid in the reservoir.

EX500 head gaskets used to let go in this way. It would actually leave the temperature sensor uncovered so it wouldn't show you the overheat but the fan would be going batshit (because the fan switch was lower down).
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 16 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I would just change the coolant to make sure some tard has not just filled it with tap water, low or on original coolant etc. Obviously can troubleshoot fan at the same time.

That 230mm can is basically nothing and I can imagine the fuel/air is pretty poor and probably costing you power without any other tuning air/ecu side. Obviously could be wrong without dyno/af mix readout, but would very much lean that way. Baffle will help (and make everyone hate you less)
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 16 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tap water is fine in a vehicle is fine so long as antifreeze is added in countries where the temperature may drop below zero.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 16 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Tap water is fine in a vehicle is fine so long as antifreeze is added in countries where the temperature may drop below zero.


Indeed. Most race bikes aren't allowed to run coolant because it's slippery if it gets on the track. They fill them with water and drain it after each race meet.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 16 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

In long term use swapping the water would be worse than keeping the same water in it. There is only so much mineral that a few litres of water can carry to deposit in the system to reduce the efficiency of the system.

Keep changing the water and quite quickly it'll be a bit like the inside of your kettle.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 16 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
In long term use swapping the water would be worse than keeping the same water in it. There is only so much mineral that a few litres of water can carry to deposit in the system to reduce the efficiency of the system.

Keep changing the water and quite quickly it'll be a bit like the inside of your kettle.


Leave it full and it'll go rusty inside or you'll forget and it'll freeze. Coolant also contains corrosion inhibitor.

Also you must have shit water. The inside of my kettle is spotlessly clean after 11 years.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 16 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cumbria is mostly igneous rock.I live near Salisbury plain which is chalk so calcium carbonate rich.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 11:00 - 17 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on the thread - took it to a mechanic and he said it's the thermostat. Just going to get him to replace it, I can't be fucked with taking the fairings off again if its' even involved. Pretty awesome to see like three separate people on here diagnosed it from very minor symptoms that only happened a few times. Just glad I got it now before it became a bigger problem down the line.

Thanks guys!
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