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True Blue
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 04 Jul 2022    Post subject: POR 15 Reply with quote

Got a small tank leak. Had it welded and it still hasn't cured it Mad

I'll get the weld going over again, but was thinking of using a tank sealer too. Just in case.

Has anyone used POR15? recommended?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 04 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, and it works but Preparation, preparation, preparation. You need to be absolutely meticulious. Use the flushing solutions and follow the instructions to the letter. Particularly when it says something needs to be dry, it means it.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 04 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I can't just clean it out with acetone or something? I need to use their degrease and whatever primer they sell?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 04 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you hard of reading?
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 04 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bronze brazing or silver soldering on the outside of the re-done weld (just in case it's porous yet again).
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 04 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd just use their system. If you fuck it up, it's a real fuck up because then you have to get it off again. It sets like nothing I've ever seen.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 06:15 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I'd just use their system. If you fuck it up, it's a real fuck up because then you have to get it off again. It sets like nothing I've ever seen.


Yep, and wear gloves when going anywhere near it, as once its on your skin, it will stay there for over a week, no matter how much you try and clean it off
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 07:11 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers guys

Apart from you Nobby... You can fuck off
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 07:15 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always a pleasure.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 07:15 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bhud wrote:
Bronze brazing or silver soldering on the outside of the re-done weld (case it's porous yet again).



I may do actually. I had it welded last night. Still a slight leak. I'll see if I can get it touched up.

Either try brazing or some sort of 2k epoxy maybe
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Islander
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

True Blue wrote:
So, I can't just clean it out with acetone or something? I need to use their degrease and whatever primer they sell?


Do it your own way and when it messes up spectacularly and you're left with an almost impossible to remove mess that doesn't work, reflect on stinkwheel's advice. Laughing
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

True Blue wrote:
some sort of 2k epoxy maybe


Milliput (correctly mixed and cured over the full time) will do the job for about a month, before it starts seeping through. It will also be proud of the surface, and look like an unsightly lump. I wouldn't waste time with any epoxy - just brazing, then POR15.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
True Blue wrote:
So, I can't just clean it out with acetone or something? I need to use their degrease and whatever primer they sell?


Do it your own way and when it messes up spectacularly and you're left with an almost impossible to remove mess that doesn't work, reflect on stinkwheel's advice. Laughing


I mind when this place wasn't full of pricks like you and Nobby.


I asked that question to counter other advice I was given. Stinkwheel doubled down on his advice...which I expected. But thanks for your helpful advice.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

True Blue wrote:
Islander wrote:


Do it your own way and when it messes up spectacularly and you're left with an almost impossible to remove mess that doesn't work, reflect on stinkwheel's advice. Laughing


I mind when this place wasn't full of pricks like you and Nobby.


I asked that question to counter other advice I was given. Stinkwheel doubled down on his advice...which I expected. But thanks for your helpful advice.


You're very welcome. Laughing
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Islander
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 05 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bhud wrote:
True Blue wrote:
some sort of 2k epoxy maybe


Milliput (correctly mixed and cured over the full time) will do the job for about a month, before it starts seeping through. It will also be proud of the surface, and look like an unsightly lump. I wouldn't waste time with any epoxy - just brazing, then POR15.


If you want to use a fuel resistant epoxy then JB Weld does the job nicely. Thumbs Up
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Robby
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 06 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what bike this is on, but bear in mind that POR15 is epoxy. If you have a simple tank with one drain hole that is easily plugged, you're fine. If it has a fuel sender, filter, or anything else inside the tank, they will end up glued solid.

Personally I would cut out the rusty metal and braze on a patch. Having had tank sealers fail in the past, I don't trust any of them to keep working long term.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 06 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
I don't know what bike this is on, but bear in mind that POR15 is epoxy. If you have a simple tank with one drain hole that is easily plugged, you're fine. If it has a fuel sender, filter, or anything else inside the tank, they will end up glued solid.

Personally I would cut out the rusty metal and braze on a patch. Having had tank sealers fail in the past, I don't trust any of them to keep working long term.


It's a bmw k100. It's an aluminium tank. It's not so much a hole that's rusted in it, as it's the seam that's came apart. I can strip it bare, no problem. So hopefully easy enough to do.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 06 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry but aren't those tanks ten a penny? Just get one off ebay.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 06 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Sorry but aren't those tanks ten a penny? Just get one off ebay.


The early 2v versions from 84-86? No. Not ten a penny. And In unknown /potentially even worse condition.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 06 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's alloy and vaguely sound, you might be able to lumiweld it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 09 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welded or Brazed?

100% not the same thing.

ps And Nobby, you can fuck off. Laughing
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 09 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Welded or Brazed?

100% not the same thing.


So since nobody likes a smartarse. Is lumiweld soldering, brazing or welding? And why?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 09 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
MCN wrote:
Welded or Brazed?

100% not the same thing.


So since nobody likes a smartarse. Is lumiweld soldering, brazing or welding? And why?


I suspect it's brazing/hard soldering rather than welding although I'm happy to be corrected on that.

In brazing, the filler material has a lower melting point than the metal it's repairing and joins by capillary action with the filler metal flowing into rough surfaces. With welding the filler material usually has a higher melting point than the metal its repairing and joins by fusing the metal and filler together at the molecular level.

Lumiweld melts at a lower temperature than the alloy and because of that I suspect it works the same way as a hard solder/braze.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 09 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried POR15 a few times, it never worked.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 09 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
MCN wrote:
Welded or Brazed?

100% not the same thing.


So since nobody likes a smartarse. Is lumiweld soldering, brazing or welding? And why?


It entirely depends on what you want to join and what the joined item has to do.

The physical properties of metal joining is sometimes an engineered choice.
Or an economics choice.

Jointing is something we humans have mastered over millennia. Some animals have mastered some techniques too.

Brazing/soldering is akin to an adhesive joint where the joint relies solely on the physical properties of the adhesive and to s lesser extent, the surface of the work peice.

Welding as The Right Hon. Islander explains relies on a fusion of the workpiece and filler. Common metals used as filler.

Some adhesives also 'weld' by fusion too.

Brazing is perfectly fine for fuel tanks. Though 'possibly' not best for load bearing areas. Although it may be OK where loads can be dispersed over a larger area.

Some posh Push Bike frames use a special tube section that has a thicker section at joint areas to permit higher loading at joints but thinner section at the long lengths where loads are different. Brazed frames.
I think most posh frames will use tig now. As it is a very clean welding process.
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