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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Any help would be greatly appreciated :-D Reply with quote

Have a ZXr 750 J1 1991, H reg. 26k miles on the clock.

Took it out of the garden today for its MOT, bought the bike privately and fixed it up ready to MOT.

Started it up normal and let it idle on choke while i sat on the bike; anyway after about 4-5 mins it suddenly started making an underlying kind of knocking noise. It'll still start and idle, but that 'knocking' is still present. fresh oil in the bike, too

Balanced carbs about 2months or so back and had bike running a good 30mins without a hitch, and haven't started it since then with fuel in it so this is a sudden issue. Only thing i can say is i had a mate grab me £15 worth of fuel [tank was totally empty, may have been small amount of old fuel still in carbs though] so i could start the bike this morning as i have no alt. transport, and when i rung him this morning to ask what fuel he had me, he informed he had bought me E10 fuel. Soon as he told me I knew my bike could not have this fuel due to age. I have heard it perishes rubber and O-rings over time... but it also affects detonation apparently, so im wondering if this is perhaps my issue? and i need to drain it all out?

Thanks. Rick
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's my prediction, and you're not going to like it.

Sat for months, dried out O rings and carb needles etc. Fill with E10 Fuel. Fuel drains down past the float seals and enters the sump diluting the oil.

Start 'er up. Oil is diluted with petrol... knocking is big end bearing.

My suggestion would be drain the oil and see if it's full of fuel.

{also, bit late now maybe but generally it's traditional to put the make and model of bike and a brief description of the issue in the thread title rather than just "Help!" }
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Here's my prediction, and you're not going to like it.

Sat for months, dried out O rings and carb needles etc. Fill with E10 Fuel. Fuel drains down past the float seals and enters the sump diluting the oil.

Start 'er up. Oil is diluted with petrol... knocking is big end bearing.

My suggestion would be drain the oil and see if it's full of fuel.

{also, bit late now maybe but generally it's traditional to put the make and model of bike and a brief description of the issue in the thread title rather than just "Help!" }


Duly noted re. thread title.

Ugh, sounds like a monster job

re. big end

Cheers
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless the big ends were already iffy I'm not sure
slightly thinned oil would knock them out at tickover
unless you revved it like buggery for extended periods
or you caned the arse off it up and down the road with questionable
lubriciousness

There's hardly any load on a ticking over engine so unless it was run dry I cant see much damage being done
even if the oil has been contaminated with fuel.

Who knows though?
We can only make guesses based on what we're told or can see,
maybe it is the ends or an exhaust header or cam shaft knocking
such little info to go on..................
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless the big ends are really fukid, you probably wouldn't notice at idle.
Usually the knock is only discernable on the over run. Rev it a little which tightens everything up. Then let the rpm slow down to idle. Everthing thats slack/worn will then rattle/knock.

The fuel in the oil coukd still be a thing.

When an Engine craters usually the debris is caught in the oil filter.
And also when you drain the oil any debris may be visible in the drained oil.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Unless the big ends were already iffy I'm not sure
slightly thinned oil would knock them out at tickover
unless you revved it like buggery for extended periods
or you caned the arse off it up and down the road with questionable
lubriciousness

There's hardly any load on a ticking over engine so unless it was run dry I cant see much damage being done
even if the oil has been contaminated with fuel.

Who knows though?
We can only make guesses based on what we're told or can see,
maybe it is the ends or an exhaust header or cam shaft knocking
such little info to go on..................


Thanks for your help. I didnt rev it all, obviously the revs climbed as warming up, but i rolled the choke off slightly each time to bring them down. Didn't ride it whatsoever, not even a few yards. It was idling normally as i said, and suddenly, knocking. Which is why the local garage to me thinks perhaps there was old E5 still in the bowls while it idled normal, and soon as the E10 entered the system, it was pre-detonating and what not, causing pistons to knock... Mad

Has always idled fine in the past when adjusting carbs, etc, I've not ridden it really since i owned it tbh. I had a second bike working fine so always used that until i ended up selling it, and put my energy in to the ZXR then.

I do remember checking the sight glass earlier after the knocking appeared and I couldnt see oil despite it being changed fairly recent. So topped it up a bit. The bike was at a friends garage for 2 weeks while he sprayed the plastics, and he did the oil change for me seeing as he had the bike anyway; and i have a horrible feeling he bought the oil from Tesco, so it's not motorcycle specific..

Anyway I have dropped it all out now and to me, there is no overpowering obvious smell of fuel mixed in with it. Not to say it hasnt contaminated it, though. Also, not metal at all in drained oil, or on the sump nut. Oil filter was also free of debris when changed
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Unless the big ends are really fukid, you probably wouldn't notice at idle.
Usually the knock is only discernable on the over run. Rev it a little which tightens everything up. Then let the rpm slow down to idle. Everthing thats slack/worn will then rattle/knock.

The fuel in the oil coukd still be a thing.

When an Engine craters usually the debris is caught in the oil filter.
And also when you drain the oil any debris may be visible in the drained oil.


Oil and filter both clean of debris when drained/changed. Since it idled fine last time, only change has been oil [tesco stuff im sure] and E10 fuel

Im just stumped as to why it idled and warmed up sounding as it should for 4-5mins and then out of nowhere, knocking
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

vid with audio
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
vid with audio


Ill upload once new oil arrives. Bike is empty as of now
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it firing on all 4 at idle? A missing pot with a blocked slow runnign jet can make a godawful knocking noise.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Is it firing on all 4 at idle? A missing pot with a blocked slow runnign jet can make a godawful knocking noise.


Wouldnt it make the knocking noise soon as the bike starts, and not after running/sounding totally normal for a good 5mins or so?


Had A quote anyway off garage for possible collection of bike to take it for diagnostic and he seems to think in general, that its not common for a big end to go on a bike. He has seen it before, but its rare in his experience and only once maybe twice at most he has encountered it in all his yrs in the job, and generally happens when you rag the absolute arse out of them with no oil or cold engine. And, he had only seen it on a Motocross bike, not road. Given I idled normal to begin with, he, like previous posts, is pointing towards either

a] Incorrect E10 fuel causing an igniting before the piston hits TDC, this can cause a knock/slap supposedly, [his words not mine!]

b] As the oil was essentially car oil, it was burning away too quick and/or too thin, and causing metal on metal collision in the engine.

(obviously if it is either of the above, i wont need his help lol)


Also informed me that if it was the big end bearing, cheaper to buy a 2nd hand engine compared to labour costs!

I dont know if this means anything to you, but he also asked me prior to the knocking or just as it started, did i feel the bike "drop" so to speak, as if the bike suddenly felt lower. Not to my knowledge Neutral
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 21:21 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

RickTaff wrote:


a] Incorrect E10 fuel causing an igniting before the piston hits TDC, this can cause a knock/slap supposedly, [his words not mine!]


Sounds like nonsense to me. The octane rating of the E10 petrol is the same as standard E5 unleaded. It has to be else it would destroy tonnes of engines every day and motorists would be up in arms.

RickTaff wrote:

b] As the oil was essentially car oil, it was burning away too quick and/or too thin, and causing metal on metal collision in the engine.


Nonsense. Car oil might cause problems with a slipping clutch, but car oil is still oil, and a bike engine is still an engine. There's no reason to believe that car oil would be *so* bad as to cause immediate damage to the engine (unless for example it's contaminated).

Might want a new mechanic. It hopefully isn't a big end, but it could be. It can't be the uncontaminated oil itself, and it can't be detonation.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree with Marjay - it's nothing to do with the fuel.

Agree with Stinkers - running on less than four pots sounds baaad..

Agree with WD - contaminated oil not usually an instant death knoll (knell?)
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
RickTaff wrote:


a] Incorrect E10 fuel causing an igniting before the piston hits TDC, this can cause a knock/slap supposedly, [his words not mine!]


Sounds like nonsense to me. The octane rating of the E10 petrol is the same as standard E5 unleaded. It has to be else it would destroy tonnes of engines every day and motorists would be up in arms.

RickTaff wrote:

b] As the oil was essentially car oil, it was burning away too quick and/or too thin, and causing metal on metal collision in the engine.


Nonsense. Car oil might cause problems with a slipping clutch, but car oil is still oil, and a bike engine is still an engine. There's no reason to believe that car oil would be *so* bad as to cause immediate damage to the engine (unless for example it's contaminated).

Might want a new mechanic. It hopefully isn't a big end, but it could be. It can't be the uncontaminated oil itself, and it can't be detonation.


So in theory i could continue to use semi synth 10/40 in my bike, even if its car oil, and it shouldn't cause any major issues?
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Agree with Marjay - it's nothing to do with the fuel.

Agree with Stinkers - running on less than four pots sounds baaad..

Agree with WD - contaminated oil not usually an instant death knoll (knell?)




It has run on 3 in the past without a knocking sound, just created an uneven engine tone while idling. Im 99.999% certain its still running on 4, it was a week or 2 back
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 21 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put car oil in my bikes all the time.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 22 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

RickTaff wrote:
So in theory i could continue to use semi synth 10/40 in my bike, even if its car oil, and it shouldn't cause any major issues?


Clutch slip, sure. But it won't bang your motor.
If you *have* to use car oil, use the cheap shit, it's usually not got friction modifiers in it, which causes clutch clip.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 22 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used to lust after the blue version of the h1 when they came out, thought those tubes going into the tank were so cool.
sorry this post is no help, just wanted to say what a lovely looking bike it is.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 22 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

31 years old and 26 thousand miles eh?
Thats's just 838 miles a year or 16 miles a week.

If its such a good bike how come no one wanted to ride it much?
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 22 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
31 years old and 26 thousand miles eh?
Thats's just 838 miles a year or 16 miles a week.

If its such a good bike how come no one wanted to ride it much?


No idea, I do know the gentleman i bought it off couldnt stick the riding position so bought an upright seated bike, and left this one in his garage. Never even planned to sell it he claims, and then finances went a bit haywire so he needed shot
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 22 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
i used to lust after the blue version of the h1 when they came out, thought those tubes going into the tank were so cool.
sorry this post is no help, just wanted to say what a lovely looking bike it is.


Yeh, my model has the tubes look like hoover pipes!

Theres a local Kwak dealer to me who say they hold value aswell, provided they havent been streetfightered of course; and are in at least a 'good' condition
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 06:23 - 23 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

i remember bike mags at the time saying the seat was like sitting on a plank due to the rear shock and that a replacement was definitely needed.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 23 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
i remember bike mags at the time saying the seat was like sitting on a plank due to the rear shock and that a replacement was definitely needed.


It's not the shock, it's the linkage. Kawasaki messed up their calculations, and because of Japanese culture nobody really told them anything was wrong.

A company called NWS used to make aftermarket linkages for them to make them easier to ride and handle better, but I've no idea if any modern equivalent exists. As a bike they are getting more soughtafter.

OP: Any joy after changing the oil again? Were there metal particles in the oil you dropped?
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 14:39 - 24 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
to v or not to v wrote:
i remember bike mags at the time saying the seat was like sitting on a plank due to the rear shock and that a replacement was definitely needed.


It's not the shock, it's the linkage. Kawasaki messed up their calculations, and because of Japanese culture nobody really told them anything was wrong.

A company called NWS used to make aftermarket linkages for them to make them easier to ride and handle better, but I've no idea if any modern equivalent exists. As a bike they are getting more soughtafter.

OP: Any joy after changing the oil again? Were there metal particles in the oil you dropped?


Hi, no metal parts whatsoever, no.

I will put correct bike oil into it tomorrow and see what happens, a fellow rider popped over yesterday for a chat and claims to have had the exact same issue as me, idling nicely then a knocking after a few mins out of the blue... his turned out to be the clutch, or clutch plates due to bad oil aswell.


He did explain in more detail, i just cant remember exactly what he said lol
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 24 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a Kawasaki start knocking once. Turned out all that had happened was that one of the rubber boots that blocks off the carb balance ports had fallen off. I was at traffic lights at the time and there was a VW Beetle in front. I thought it was clattering like they do until it pulled away and the rattle stayed with me.

I note you recently balanced the carbs, maybe one wasn't put back properly and it's come off.
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