FZ1 Fazer 2010 overheating

[Andy_Pagin]

I've never had overheating problems before. Bike hasn't been used for about three months. Went out last night for a run, bike behaved completely normally, nice ride no traffic, moving more or less the whole time. Got home, while I was getting the bike down the side ally the temp warning light came on, the gauge flashing 120c.

Tonight I checked the expansion bottle, low but not dry, filled it up, started her up, temperature rose steadily to 100c when both fans came on as expected, temperature continued to rise steadily, very slowly to 120c.

Top and bottom hoses feel hot, top of radiator feels cooler than the bottom.
Oil looks ok, no signs of coolant leakage, bike runs fine.

What should I be checking next?
____________________
They're coming to take me away, ho-ho, hee-hee, ha-haaa, hey-hey,
the men in white coats are coming to take me away.
Yamaha Vity -> YBR125 -> FZS600 Fazer -> FZ1-S Fazer

[A100man]

[Andy_Pagin]

Forgot to mention something odd, when I started the bike and let it idle the temperature gauge showed 'Lo', and stayed that way until I revved it after about thirty seconds when it changed to 47c, ie. there was no gradual increase in the reading until I revved it the first time.
____________________
They're coming to take me away, ho-ho, hee-hee, ha-haaa, hey-hey,
the men in white coats are coming to take me away.
Yamaha Vity -> YBR125 -> FZS600 Fazer -> FZ1-S Fazer

[Robby]

Assuming the gauge is accurate and the system is full, then it isn't managing to dump heat.

First thing is to externally clean the radiator, check if it's dirty enough to stop airflow getting through or has lots of bent fins.

If the rad looks good, next place I would consider is the water pump, checking for a worn, cracked or sheared impeller blade.

[MCN]

Erratic temperature indication could be low coolant. Cold when not coola t on it, then when hot coolant splashed on it shows hot.
Even though the spansion tank look full, doesn't mean the radiator is full.
Open the rad pressure cap and check.
There would also be a puddle of coolant on the floor/path/slabs/monoblock under its parking spot. Where the missing coolant gathers.

For a poached water pump, before you invest in a big bit, check for flow.
There is sometimes a bleeder plug near the top of the water pump/area of pump. Crack the plug open until you see a drip of coolant.
Start the hoowur, and see if the drip becomes a stream or drips faster. That says there is flow. (Pumps only create Flow. Restriction creates pressure. )

Other thing could be a phahed temp sensor.
Some equipment use one sensor for all. Gauge and fan control. Some equipment has two. On for gauge one for fan.

You will loose coolant to replace them either way.

The trick with cooling system troubleshooting, is to try to not have to phaph with draining, filling fecking coolant if not necessary.

If the system need coolant added, squeeze the hoses to help force any trapped air out.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[jeffyjeff]

After checking the radiator for obstruction an ensuring proper fan operation and air flow (I've seen fans installed backwards so the cup is not biting air), I would check for causes of insufficient coolant flow. Bad thermostat is probably the most likely culprit, followed by a clogged radiator. Water pump impellers can erode due to cavitation, but other causes are more likely.

Fan operation at idle should pull down your coolant temperature within a minute or so, temperature still climbing after fans turn on suggest the engine will overheat severely when underway. As stated above, make sure cooling system is filled to capacity.
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History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC

[xX-Alex-Xx]

Check the easy stuff first. Coolant full, replace radiator cap as it’s cheap, then look at the thermostat.
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DILLIGAF

[jaffa90]

[stinkwheel]

Filling the expansion tank doesn't fill the radiator. Filling the radiator fills the radiator.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MCN]

My spelbot on my phone makes me look like an idiot.

I type it, I see wot I typed. I submit.
What is submitted gets changed between send and read.

It's Driving Me Nuts.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[Andy_Pagin]

[WD Forte]

My guess is stuck thermostat or bad pump
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bikers smell of wee

[Andy_Pagin]

Well I fixed it, the worst kind of fix, where you don't actually find out what the problem was.

First I garden-hosed the outside of the rad, can't say much muck came out and the water gushed through fairly well.

Next checked the water level at the rad cap. It wasn't brim full, so I added some coolant, about 60ml. Cap looked in good order, no signs of coolant having blasted out.

Started her up, nice steady increase in temperature at the gauge. Took noticeably longer to reach 100c. Fans kicked in, went up to 102c then drifted slowly down to 94c. Cycle then repeated ...

So now I'm going to have to watch the bloody temperature gauge like a hawk on every ride.
____________________
They're coming to take me away, ho-ho, hee-hee, ha-haaa, hey-hey,
the men in white coats are coming to take me away.
Yamaha Vity -> YBR125 -> FZS600 Fazer -> FZ1-S Fazer

[dave001]

[Nobby the Bastard]

[dave001]

It's Driving Me Nuts.[/quote]

shall we start insulting you now then over it ?
[/quote]

Walloper doesn't act like a complete cunt all the time.[/quote]

that's true unlike you

[Nobby the Bastard]

I never said I wasn't a complete cunt.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[dave001]

[Nobby the Bastard]

[Ste]