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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 25 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

gave it its annual wash. purely because i happened to be washing the cars.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 25 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:


Wouldn't you get the pistons after? I'd have thought whoever redid the cylinders would tell you what pistons you will need Thinking


Nope. This is standard procedure - they take the new pistons and rings and then bore and hone the cylinder to size. In this case it's very straightforward. The bores are scored and there is only one size up of piston available, so there's no point actually measuring the cylinders (I don't have telescoping gauges anyway). Plus measuring bores is a waste of time when you can see obvious damage. I've got the pistons and I have precise information (from the pistons manufacturer) to give to the machinist. He just needs to read that information, set his machine and do the work. If he can't do it for whatever reason he'll get in touch with me and I'll have to source new barrels. But these are the pistons that are going in.

https://i.ibb.co/b2rxPvB/20230623-144037.jpg
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 25 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always has the bores done first because until it is you don't know what size piston to get on account of the fact you don't know how deep the scoring is.

In your instance where only one oversize is available, what are you going to do if the scoring is too deep for that oversize?

Bear in mind typically an oversize generally go up in 0.25mm increments.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 25 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
In your instance where only one oversize is available, what are you going to do if the scoring is too deep for that oversize?


Get another set of cylinders and tell the guy to bore and hone those instead.

Quote:
Bear in mind typically an oversize generally go up in 0.25mm increments.


In this case they only go up in 0.5mm increments.

Bear in mind that it's one of those bikes where the polisher-wanker types haven't yet developed an obsession with it, but the Ebay pigs are already licking their lips and gnashing their chops and are overpricing and sitting on parts... So it's exactly like something like an XS650 before those bikes became collectable. I can get a cheap set of replacement cylinders, but not from the bay.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 16:11 - 25 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

What if your replacement barrels don't need reboring?
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 16:24 - 25 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

They would most likely need reboring.

I base my assuredness in these things on my beliefs about how matters related to motorcycling work. In this case, it's less likely that anyone has rebored them. When I took advice on this engine on another forum, they advised not throwing money at this engine. That tells me it hasn't entered that XS650 cult yet, so motorcyclists have been sandpapering or doing whatever shit in their garage with a £15 hone from Ebay, but not taking these engines in to be machined, because they think they're low value and will always be around.

I also note that breakers are hoarding them on Ebay. This is another sign that people think they're not worth fixing, and hoarders think someone will one day come along and buy the parts.

Putting these observations together, any used set of barrels I buy are very highly likely to be standard sized.

When the VJMC and similar people start ... over it, things will change and such assumptions will no longer hold true. But for now it's in that twilight zone where you can still get cheap parts, although breakers have overpriced them on Ebay, and people are scrapping in favour of repairing due to cost vs value.

Just going by how motorcyclists in general think, I chose this course of action because I think it's correct.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:32 - 25 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

My ‘03 R1 has been off the road for quite some time due to mixed problems traced to a dodgy throttle position sensor (TPS), corrosion in the starting circuit relay connector and stuck clutch plates. I’d documented all that here and in the meantime the bike was abandoned in the garage while I rode the ZX6R. Finding a replacement 16-pin connector (I’d chewed the original up trying to extract the pins) was quite a problem, finally sourced from https://www.corsa-technic.com/ in the USA (turns out it’s a Toyota Supra part too).

Having this week off work I’ve used a grinding disc on a Dremel to cut the old plastic wafer-thin over each pin and then pried the old connector open like pulling bits off a bread roll to release the wires. Old and new connectors shown below half way through the job. I numbered each wire using a Dymo printer to make sure the 12 pins go into the right places. I’ve also crimped three new connectors to replace those which broke off. The bike now starts.

https://i.postimg.cc/Qx4fTnVR/IMG-0594.jpg

The replacement TPS makes the throttle very crisp. I’m surprised I tolerated the near cut-out when the old one was given the first millimetre of movement but I wrongly thought it was an early fuel-injection trait. Latterly The TPS failed across a wider range, making itself obvious.

When reassembled the freed-up clutch plates weren’t engaging with each other even with no cable attached. I’d used the on-line Yamaha service manual but surprisingly the Haynes manual gives more reassembly information and it looks like I hadn’t ensured the clutch spring plate was properly mated with the clutch boss. Consequently when I’ve fitted the retainer bolts the tangs in the spring plate have taken a slice of metal from two of the six clutch boss mounting points. You can just about see that in the photo at the 9 o’clock position compared to the others.

https://i.postimg.cc/SK8dHSVh/IMG-1046.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/hjgDHRNY/IMG-0602.png

Happily I retrieved those two metal slices from the clutch housing, and I don’t think it will impact reassembly when Wemoto send the EBC kit (friction plates, steel plates and diaphragm spring plate). The friction plates hadn’t been slipping but when measured they were all at the lower limit for thickness (after 35,000 miles) so worth changing now.

Fingers-crossed the R1 will soon be MOT’d and back in regular use.
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that_impulse_guy
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PostPosted: 08:44 - 26 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

removed my rear footpegs and mounts (saved 0.5kg!!!) (cant use them coz of CBT restrictions so why am I dragging them around with me)

Also spent time de-spidering everything, again...spiders seems to have made a home somewhere and I feel like a witch everytime I ride with trails of spiderweb coming off the bars, clocks, mirrors etc.

If anybody has remedy (park it next to a Harley and hope they go to a better home?) let me know.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 26 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

tie a bird to the bike to eat the spiders.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 26 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

that_impulse_guy wrote:
removed my rear footpegs and mounts (saved 0.5kg!!!) (cant use them coz of CBT restrictions so why am I dragging them around with me)


Note that a double/pillion seat with no pegs = MoT failure. Either need a solo seat or one of those "café racer" covers.
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that_impulse_guy
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 26 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

genuinely didnt know that...thanks!

does this qualify as two seats or one long one with a small hump?

https://www.am-motorcycles.co.uk/bikes-for-sale/images/2019-10-16-14-01-11orange-29.jpg

(its probably two...I'll put them back then...)
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Now: Suzuki GSX400X, Suzuki RF900R, NS400R
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 26 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

just put them back on at MOT time.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 28 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aside from the clutch on the old fella's KZ1000 mentioned in the Workshop section we've also been working on an alarm system. '70s bikes have little to no security so it seemed like a good idea at the time Smile

Anyhoo, we've got as far as running it keyless style like wot his Harley has. But... errr... the indicators have stopped working so a bit more wiring to do.

The unit is one of those typical Chinese units with terrible instructions. I might write up my findings once we've got the Kwacker working if anyone's interested.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 29 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Aside from the clutch on the old fella's KZ1000 mentioned in the Workshop section we've also been working on an alarm system. '70s bikes have little to no security so it seemed like a good idea at the time Smile

Anyhoo, we've got as far as running it keyless style like wot his Harley has. But... errr... the indicators have stopped working so a bit more wiring to do.

The unit is one of those typical Chinese units with terrible instructions. I might write up my findings once we've got the Kwacker working if anyone's interested.


The next owner's gonna love you..
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 29 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
The next owner's gonna love you..


Ah well, we've gone to great pains not to touch the original loom. That does have the downside of still allowing someone to hot-wire the bike but you'd at least need to unlock the seat and take the tank off. But this is more of an amusement project than a serious stab at security.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 01 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well.
When I started it up, something went *bang*...! around the ignitiony section.

Panic...

There are a couple of bits of plastic on the road near the bike, but I don't know if they were there or not before it went bang. But they do look like they might have come off the bike due to their level of grubbiness. I shall keep them in case the *bang!* situation happens again, and shall show them to the mechanic.

It wasn't like the misfire that the Snarley is doing.

But then I tried again (rather more cautiously) and although it went *bang* a second time, it agreed to start, run and took me to the Ace Caff and back. It didn't go bang at all whilst at the Ace Caff, no doubt because of the large number of burly chaps with a knack for motorcycle fettling (NCC) standing around at their annual shindig.

Rolling Eyes When you need a burly chap with a knack for motorcycle fettling you can never find one, but when you don't ... you see them by the fucking lorryload. Rolling Eyes

Anyway, had a nice pootle out and a Saturday morning Fry-up, perved on burly geezers and dodged the rain.
Mustn't grumble.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 01 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted a new EBC clutch from Wemoto. The first friction and steel plate pairing to go on are secured with a wire circlip which was tricky to fit and didn’t come with the kit, so that was £12 delivered from Fowlers. The friction plates are aramid so only needed a brush with oil rather than an overnight bath although it looked to be soaking in quickly. This time the plates had no free play between them. The clutch cover went back on a bit more easily and I made sure the lever at that end looked and felt right but it took a few goes. I reused the same gasket from the recent botched reassembly. After a bit of cable adjustment and then rolling a couple of yards under power it’s all good. Wanna give it a ‘test ride’ (officer) but it’s got no MOT. Battery needs charging next.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 01 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Figured out the wiring on the old fella's KZ1000 to get the alarm and indicators playing nicely. We then moved on to the "amazing" bluetooth phone app Sad

Although we initially got it to pair, the app wouldn't do anything. It did prompt to change the default PIN so we did... and then it stopped working entirely - wouldn't respond to either the new or old PIN Sad

Cheap piece of Chinese crap but as I said before: more of an experiment than anything serious. The key fobs still work though.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 01 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

dave001 wrote:
try a metal dental pick next time to get the plug off Lmao


I had tried that (discussed on another thread) but the pins wouldn’t budge. Either the old plastic had hardened into a death grip or there were two pin locks per position (-there was a strange ‘hatch’ on one side).
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Islander
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 02 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fitted a nice shiny new stainless steel Delkevic exhaust system to my partner's 750 Zephyr (early birthday present). It sounds fantastic - I may just have to buy one for the GSF1200... Laughing
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 02 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swapped the bars for raised ones, stripped and serviced all 3 calipers on both bikes. New pads all around, new venhill lines on mywork bike as the old ones were chafed and corroded, new air filter and balanced the throttles.

That's the wekeend gone then...
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MercurialWarc...
Derestricted Danger



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PostPosted: 00:14 - 05 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
grr666 wrote:
Accidentally killed it. Then brought it back to life again. Tried to fit the "plug and play" Denali mini sound-bomb horn
I bought some time ago because the factory fit one sounds like road runner. Plug and play it said....

It took out the horn, indicators, headlights, tail lights, turn signals and hazards and the bugger wouldn't start either.
I had power to my TFT screen, injectors were priming on turning the key but it would NOT start no matter what.
It may have even been the immobiliser? Who knows?

Called Fowlers after re fitment of stock horn because warranty and was told it could be collected (at my cost) on
14th July... Shocked Investigation of fault commencing on 17th. This prompted me to RTFM and locate the fuse boxes
(there's 3). I had a look and fortunately the first fuse I pulled was the one that had gone, a single 7.5a micro blade
fuse that is seemingly the mainstay of all the lights, horn and starter.

Anyways, started first time once that was replaced by one of the handy spares Yamaha also supplied in the fuse boxes.

Glad Grr is glad.


Sounds like you need a relay and some heavier gauge wiring for it to go on a new dedicated 10A fused circuit direct from the battery.


I know it's late notice, but Denali do actually sell a separate wiring loom for their horns: Denali Plug-N-Play Wiring

Bloody expensive for what it is - some might call it atrocious - but it is a very simple installation.

I should know as I've just had to trace an issue with this extra bit of wiring on my Triumph...
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Tierbirdy
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 09 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i.imgur.com/DcO77VC.png

Swapped out the OEM kamikaze rotor on my FZ1 for the RMStator one. Should save my engine from committing seppuku

Also replaced all the lights with LED and looks way more modern. Next is getting rid of the disgusting OEM tail tidy and gigantahuge numberplate
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grr666
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 09 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

MercurialWarchief wrote:


I know it's late notice, but Denali do actually sell a separate wiring loom for their horns: Denali Plug-N-Play Wiring

Bloody expensive for what it is - some might call it atrocious - but it is a very simple installation.

I should know as I've just had to trace an issue with this extra bit of wiring on my Triumph...


I only bought a Sound bomb mini, that wiring kit is more than I paid for the horn unit itself. Shocked What I never
noticed until I took the bike out again was that it had left me with an engine management light illuminated even
though it was all ok again. A bit of reading on the FZ10 forum suggested that it was for a fault code that I'd
have to have wiped at the main agent. I was looking at buying my own OBD device to do it myself and then on
the next ride out I saw that it had gone out by itself, so I'm pleased about that.
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