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Hi Guys Need Some Help. (Scooter not starting)

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Globule
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Joined: 06 Dec 2022
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PostPosted: 08:22 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Hi Guys Need Some Help. (Scooter not starting) Reply with quote

Hi Guys.

I need a bit of help with a little 125cc scooter.

Bike is a Honda 125FES Pantheon twist and go.

The other day rode it in to work and it worked fine. Went back 7 hours later and it wouldn't start.

Wouldn't turn over, lights bright at first, then very dim.

Recovery guy, did manage to jump start it, but as soon as he removed the jump leads it died.

So it's now in the garage, battery charged and reading 12.6V. Turn key and no lights (operated by ignition switch), no instrument lights, no LED display.

All I get is a strange buzz/whine, sounds like maybe a very loud fuel pump type sound.

I've checked the battery 12.6V, checked all 10A fuses, checked main 30A fuse, all seem good. Changed the 30A fuse just in case. Doesn't seem to be any burnt wires around starter relay.

Any suggestions ideas will be most welcome!

Thanks in advance.

Steve.



.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 08:37 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery is 12.6 volts with or without the ignition on and load being applied? Just cos it has that voltage with no load, doesn't mean it's not shagged out.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 08:45 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

12.6v is a bit low. I suspect your charging system has failed.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

12.6V isnt bad.
You need to get meter on the wiring otherwise its all guesswork

I'd start with checking battery connections and grounding.
Then I'd trace power to and from the ignition switch as many have soldered connections and these can develop dry or broken joints in time.
Also, open, check and clean all electrical connectors as most are ignored until they fail rather than serviced from time to time.
Scoots means plastic panels which means most stuff is
'out sight out of mind' until it goes wrong
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Globule
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the ideas guys, I'll try suggestions and get back with a progress report.
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Globule
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tested the battery again and I got 12.3V ignition off. Ignition on drops to 3.8V.

I'm guessing new battery time?
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would be a pretty safe guess.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Globule wrote:
Just tested the battery again and I got 12.3V ignition off. Ignition on drops to 3.8V.

I'm guessing new battery time?


Definitely.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Globule wrote:
Just tested the battery again and I got 12.3V ignition off. Ignition on drops to 3.8V.

I'm guessing new battery time?


yep, probably, unless you have an unfused dead short to ground post ignition switch
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
yep, probably, unless you have an unfused dead short to ground post ignition switch

That would probably result in burnt wires or a fried ignition switch.
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Globule
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll buy a new battery tomorrow and take it from there.

I find it strange that it wont start with a jump from a spare battery.

Thanks again for the input, I'll let you guys know what happens.
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 07 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's probably because your old battery is sucking all the electricity and turning it into heat rather than charging it or allowing it to go to the starter. Disconnect your battery and jump it from the other battery.
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Globule
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 08 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put the new battery in and it started first try Very Happy

On the stand at the equivalent RPM of about 30mph I've got a reading of 14.79V. But even at idle I'm getting about 14.5V.

So as simple as a knackered battery.

What got me confused was, there was no symptoms before the failure, like a sluggish start and not being able to jump start it from the spare car battery I have. All the other bikes I've had have always shown signs of failure.

Thanks once again for all the help guys.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 08 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Globule wrote:
So as simple as a knackered battery.
What got me confused was, there was no symptoms before the failure, like a sluggish start and not being able to jump start it from the spare car battery I have.

I've experienced similar - battery failure doesn't have to be a gradual process, it can also be instant, eg caused by an internal connection breaking or getting (possibly partly) shorted out by crud falling between the plates
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 08 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had that happen once too and it isn't always apparent as the battery may appear to have a charge
in terms of having what looks like a decent voltage
but be unable to deliver much current when a load is applied.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 08 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:
Globule wrote:
So as simple as a knackered battery.
What got me confused was, there was no symptoms before the failure, like a sluggish start and not being able to jump start it from the spare car battery I have.

I've experienced similar - battery failure doesn't have to be a gradual process, it can also be instant, eg caused by an internal connection breaking or getting (possibly partly) shorted out by crud falling between the plates


Aye me too. Got on bike,started, rode 3 miles to petrol station started, rode 30 miles to mates house, 1 1/2 hrs chin wag, no started, jump start to get home, fuck about trying to charge it, consult BCF, buy new battery. Thumbs Up
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 08 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:
I've experienced similar - battery failure doesn't have to be a gradual process, it can also be instant, eg caused by an internal connection breaking or getting (possibly partly) shorted out by crud falling between the plates

That "crud" is most likely battery plate material, which indeed is conductive. Over hundreds of charge and discharge cycles, battery plate material erodes and falls to the bottom of the cells. You could easily see that happen back in the day when battery cases were made of clear plastic. Over time, enough of the plate material erodes that the plates lose a portion of their surface area. The number of battery cells determine the voltage (i.e. 6 cells = 12 volts), but it is the surface area that determines capacity of amp discharge. Reduced plate surface area leads to a battery that reads 12+ volts at rest, but cannot muster the current flow to start the motor.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 08 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, happened on the mighty Citroen C1. Started fine one day, wouldn't start the next. After several hours charging the battery it still wouldn't start. Even jumping it with another vehicle was an arse as the knackered battery was trying to drain all the electricity from the working and running vehicle's charging system.

New battery solved problem.
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Triumph Sprint ST 1050
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 09 Aug 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get some funny symptoms from aging batteries.

One day the other month on my Suzuki I realised the neutral light wasn't working- two blown bulbs later I put the multimeter to the socket to find the 6v battery was 'providing' 19v. Battery was only 3.5v at rest.

New battery and the regulator - such as it is - now knows what to do with itself.
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