Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


LED lighting flicker (WD forte?)

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:56 - 03 Feb 2024    Post subject: LED lighting flicker (WD forte?) Reply with quote

On my Minsk 125 which has a single phase 12V DC "charging" system with no battery. Standard reg/rec. LED bulbs throughout. The ignition system is totally seperate.

The lights have a barely perceptible flicker at idle. A much more noticeable one as you rev the engine up. I checked the output voltage and it was pretty much nailed to 14v. Analogue meter and the needle seemed steady. The taillight LED bulb popped (may be a red herring, it was a cheap and nasty amazon one)

I tried fitting a 4,700uf 50V capacitor paralell to the circuit. This seemed to make no difference.

I fitted an incandescent taillight bulb to see if it was actually a bad connection vibrating. This lit up normally and steadily AND the flicker on the other lights stopped.

I took the incandescent out (hot, hot hot!) and the flicker started again. If I sound the horn, the flicker stops.

It seems they flicker unless there is an added load in the circuit. The instrument panel lights do it too. Maybe the LEDs and lack of load are causing some funky effect with the reg/rec?

WD forte mentioned the capacitor may be a bit on the big side? Maybe fit a smaller one? I'm wondering what would be a good value if that is the case?

The simple solution would be to just use an incandescent taillight bulb, and this is what I'll do for the MOT. I'm just concerned the flicker might damage the other bulbs if the taillight isn't on.

Maybe fit a ballast resistor paralell to the capacitor??
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Bhud
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 Oct 2018
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:37 - 03 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tbh some of the filter circuit solutions you guys were talking about seemed a bit strange.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:01 - 03 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's got nothing odd in there. Output from the reg/rec goes straight to the main fuse and then the lighting. The only slightly odd thing is a couple of diodes so the single flasher tell-tale will work properly without lighting up both sets of flashers but that's only connected when the flashers are on.

The capacitor is connected where the battery would be.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:04 - 03 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

In general bigger capacitors dont react (charge/discharge) as fast as smaller ones so the 4700 may be a bit on the large side

its normal practise in power supplies to use smaller caps in parallel with a large one to smooth out higher frequencies

I used a 330uf electrolytic cap on the moby and it worked well enough considering the very spiky output from its single coil stator, but the guy took it away before I could fine tune it and hasn't complained since.
Had it lived here, I may have added/swapped caps to get a better smoother output.

Without seeing the output on a scope, its hard to say anything for sure but a smaller cap would be my first thing to try
and add say a 47uf/50v across the led power terminals?

To refresh my memeory i looked up the Moby experimends I did and
the spiky waveforms I had to deal with

This when i first started to try and improve the Moby
with moderate improvements
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=324407

Later when I went full retard on it and converted it to a 12v DC system with cdi ignition, note I only had one single poxy coil to play with for lights but the 330uf cap help a lot

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=334589
____________________
bikers smell of wee
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Easy-X
Super Spammer



Joined: 08 Mar 2019
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:45 - 03 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesn't hurt to put a few caps in parallel e.g. 470uF + 100nF. In electronics (and one could argue LEDs are more electronics than electrics) it's usual to have an electrolytic paired with a ceramic to smooth things out.
____________________
Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:52 - 03 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:


Without seeing the output on a scope, its hard to say anything for sure but a smaller cap would be my first thing to try
and add say a 47uf/50v across the led power terminals?


I'll give it a go.

I reckon fitting a 20 ohm ballast resistor (so the equivalent of the incandescent taillight bulb I fitted) in the lighting circuit will do nothing any harm too.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 03:42 - 04 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

100 nano caps are common in electronic circuits but this is for much higher frequency circuits (mega hertz) than what we're dealing with here
Let's say we have one winding/coil and one magnet
you'll get one pos and one neg pulse per rev.
Half wave rectifed thats 16hz @ 1000 rpm and 166 hz at 10,000 rpm
full wave rectified 32 to 320 hz
Multiple coils and multiple magnets will produce more pulses of course
I did calculate what the old CX stator was doing once but can't remember details now, only that it was in the 200 Kiloherz range
IIRC it was 18 coils and 6 magnets.
Even so, that's slow in electronic terms and as I vaugely recall
from another experiment, I couldn't discern any flicker from an led above say 40-50hz
which conforms with your lights looking ok at higher speeds
A 20 ohm resistor will burn off 0.6A/7.2 watts at 12v

Not sure you really need one, but as long as the stator has the spare capacity and its rated at 10watt or above it shouldn't do any harm.
____________________
bikers smell of wee
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

A100man
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Aug 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:22 - 04 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably not want you want but how about a small battery in there..?
Maybe the Rec/Reg is 'expecting' one. Useful for stalls too.
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:15 - 04 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

The kit is supposed to be used without a battery, these bikes never had one. I guess it's also supposed to be used with normal bulbs and I suspect it would have no issues if that was the case. I particularly wanted an LED headlamp just because they are so good compared to a 40W tungsten.

It's rated for 120W so I should have ample excess capacity.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:47 - 04 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A battery does acts like a big cap and vice versa
If you look at a say a car or bike battery on a scope when running, you'll
quite often see a small ripple voltage you were unaware of visually.

I'ts a thing I hadn't thought about much until recently when I
bought a battery tester that checks for this to see if its within acceptable bounds (a few millivolts)
plus the hoo hah with that YBR where the bad connection on the RegRec caused the ECU to false trigger coil warnings.

In the case of Stinkers commie 2 smoke, I reckon an additional small cap at the led devices terminals could well do the job of smoothing the supply.
____________________
bikers smell of wee
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:09 - 04 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

It also occurrs to me that the kit had a reg/rec with it that looks like one of the ebay Chinese ones but might also be Russian.

I wonder if fitting a mosfet based reg/rec would be a good plan?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

slowasyoulike
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 17 May 2021
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:57 - 04 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
...looks like one of the ebay Chinese ones but might also be Russian.


When I had a Voskhod a few years ago I found pretty quickly that any 'Russian' spares were invariably Chinese, so the former is probably correct.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:15 - 05 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
It also occurrs to me that the kit had a reg/rec with it that looks like one of the ebay Chinese ones but might also be Russian.

I wonder if fitting a mosfet based reg/rec would be a good plan?


Active Mosfet regulation is less lossy than common silicon diode rectifers but unless you've got a woefully low output from the windings where every milliamp counts, I wouldn't bother.
If those windings could run incandescent blubs albeit poorly where 85%
of the power was burnt off as heat not visible light,
then they'll more than likely do great powering leds

I'm not clear on how many phases and how you've got them configured and how they're being rectified
but I expect you have more available power to play with than I had on that horrible little Moby so it should give pretty decent results
____________________
bikers smell of wee
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:34 - 05 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was more wondering if the output would be cleaner. As you say, there's sufficient output behind it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87FbvEvN4MZbXtGZvAgxAZyvuNChytYCM_hlWxkIv7vcSI7RzqkKE5CRQDoByynMubiT1KPVOXFbfBMdHFVFgnCPmjFnCcjxjpGqenzjCdjp2Fo5-LsOq8vILU9NmQmyGxUVsFbmCdMx4kgrZMxcWJa=w1547-h870-s-no

With two outputs feeding a single phase reg/rec.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84zrC7s0O0Zpv66yFWcFqJfNtVGET_1VGhge-TvCqaLgPEs4DFD6GlJW7I3S9eAc4sUz139Y_oBSCWtRk-Y83POfBCNGSgjzp00KtVeP9LhlLTqS5vbaw9GdOB9wPjoS63mx4HI0VJ4oEyA2QZHu1Ep=w1547-h870-s-no

Got some caps and a ballast resistor arriving today so I can have a fiddle.

Oh, the other thing that occurred to me is it has an unsupressed ignition system. They were quite firm about not using a resistor plug cap. The ignition is self-contained (presumably that top coil).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 01:39 - 06 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've decided the shit-can all the LED bulbs other than the headlamp. It's the only one that conferrs any significant advantage on this bike. It seems happy when the other bulbs are incandescents.

It's supposed to be a simple bike and I'm getting uncomfortable with the amount of electronics lurking about which are fixing a problem that needn't exist. There is more than adequate power output.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 04:10 - 06 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a good plan as the headlamp is the single largest consumer of power and by having an led headlamp and the rest stock
you have a nice simple system.
Simple is good, I like simple.
it conforms with another of me wee sayings,
'Never make anything more complicated than it needs to be'
____________________
bikers smell of wee
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

A100man
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Aug 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:25 - 06 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chaps, since I'm in the process of dicking about with my diminuitive 2T (GP100 disk front end transplant onto the A100.) I'm also on the LED trail. Thing is I'm fairly sure my lamp, 25W/25W, is currently 6V AC direct from a dedicated alternator coil - can anything be done there?

we may have been here before Rolling Eyes
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:03 - 06 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Chaps, since I'm in the process of dicking about with my diminuitive 2T (GP100 disk front end transplant onto the A100.) I'm also on the LED trail. Thing is I'm fairly sure my lamp, 25W/25W, is currently 6V AC direct from a dedicated alternator coil - can anything be done there?

we may have been here before Rolling Eyes


Does it have a battery?

At the simplest, I'd suggest LED on all bulbs including the headlamp is probably drawing less current than the normal incandescant side, tail and instrument panel lights.

They usually have a split lighting coil (there are loads of variations mind), so all the output goes to the battery except when the lights are on when it's split between the battery and lighting. So you could potentially just fit LEDs all round, wire the headlight up to work off the battery and forget about the AC side, blank it off.

Depends on the output from that coil, you could measure it, it won't be over 10A so you should be able to check using a normal multimeter (remember to swap the leads into the 10A socket). If it's more than your selected LEDs are going to draw, you're golden.

Did this on Mrs stinkwheels YB100 and also fitted an actual single phase reg/rec (C50 clone) instead of the crappy diode it had so it wasn't entirely relying on the battery for voltage regulation.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

A100man
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Aug 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:47 - 06 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

Does it have a battery?

Yeah a tiny one.

stinkwheel wrote:

At the simplest, I'd suggest LED on all bulbs including the headlamp is probably drawing less current than the normal incandescant side, tail and instrument panel lights.

They usually have a split lighting coil (there are loads of variations mind), so all the output goes to the battery except when the lights are on when it's split between the battery and lighting. So you could potentially just fit LEDs all round, wire the headlight up to work off the battery and forget about the AC side, blank it off.


That's the arrangement as far as I recall - two coils - one charges the battery via a single diode 'rectifier' with the battery used as a regulator of sorts. the oter operates the head and tail lights direct - which makes me wonder what AC voltage it's operating at when at full chat.

stinkwheel wrote:

Depends on the output from that coil, you could measure it, it won't be over 10A so you should be able to check using a normal multimeter (remember to swap the leads into the 10A socket). If it's more than your selected LEDs are going to draw, you're golden.


stinkwheel wrote:

Did this on Mrs stinkwheels YB100 and also fitted an actual single phase reg/rec (C50 clone) instead of the crappy diode it had so it wasn't entirely relying on the battery for voltage regulation.


They are virtually the same machine.. single phase reg/rec eh? Interesting.. I did 'convert' the GT 250 fromm a basic bridge rectifier only to rec/reg although that may have had more phases. I'll check out teh C50 option cos obvs a diode only is wasting 50% of the output
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:11 - 06 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given enough time and money you can convert anything to anything
but if its just a better headlight you want, perhaps checking out what's
available in the 6V AC/DC led range would show options

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/6-volt-collection

If you want go full upgrade to a conventional 12v DC system with battery,
my advice would be to start a dedicated thread to avoid confusion
take good pics of the existing stator/generator plate
find wiring diagrams of the exisiting system then
plan the work and work the plan forwards from there.
____________________
bikers smell of wee
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

A100man
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Aug 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:30 - 06 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Given enough time and money you can convert anything to anything
but if its just a better headlight you want, perhaps checking out what's
available in the 6V AC/DC led range would show options

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/6-volt-collection


Thanks - I think that was the stumbling block - no 6V AC LED in the right fitment. EDIT: found one! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ruiandsion-P15D-25-3-Motorcycle-Replacement-Motorbike/dp/B0CP9559RM

WD Forte wrote:

If you want go full upgrade to a conventional 12v DC system with battery,
my advice would be to start a dedicated thread to avoid confusion
take good pics of the existing stator/generator plate
find wiring diagrams of the exisiting system then
plan the work and work the plan forwards from there.


Understood. I'll say TTFN.
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.13 Sec - Server Load: 0.47 - MySQL Queries: 17 - Page Size: 125.09 Kb