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Threaded sump drain plug

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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Threaded sump drain plug Reply with quote

Hi all, following on from thread in GBC, whats the cheapest way to rethread the thread on the oil draining outlet bit? Usual story, turned wrong way, threaded, now its not a tight seal (in fact barely a seal at all).

Any bodges or cheap fixes to suggest? How easy is replacing the sump with the rest in situ? Am i looking at change from 100? 200? etc.
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Klause
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PostPosted: 00:29 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lock tight?
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

its doing that annoying, 7/8 of a turn then drop out again thing, so i doubt that will help. But good suggestion Thumbs Up

Seems well and truly forked to me
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From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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Klause
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PostPosted: 00:33 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Theres some sort of special tape designed for this, you put it on the bolt and do it up. Can't remember the name Rolling Eyes .
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Klause wrote:
Theres some sort of special tape designed for this, you put it on the bolt and do it up. Can't remember the name Rolling Eyes .


REally? Sounds nifty. I know helicoil plugs etc, but just its postion and the strain it will take... Got to hold 3 litres of boiling hot oil on it Shocked
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From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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Git
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would probably drill out the old drain hole a gnats cock, tap a new thread and fit a new matching sump bolt, or look into a new sump or a sump from a shot engine.

It really isn't worth a bodge, all it will take is for the bodge to go sh1t shape when riding and the result in an extreme case could be a loss of life, really isn't worth taking short cuts.

I haven't read the other thread yet but if it was me, either new thread in damaged sump or another sump.
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 15:39 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replacement sump or Helicoil/Timesert repair. PTFE tape won't make up for sugared threads, and a sump-full of hot oil being dumped in front of your back wheel is not a good idea.


And if I subsequently come off on your puddle of oil, I'll find you and rip your arms off Wink
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I (and Git) said. Drill it out a bit, then tap it to suit a larger bolt. Maybe something wierd and imperial that is a ballhair bigger than the one you have. If you are lucky you might even find an imperial thread that will cut over the top of the one you have now without drilling.

So either a 13/32" or M11 looking at my conversion chart but don't take that as gospel because I know f-all about imperial threads

Drill= £2
Tap= £3
Bolt= 50p
Taking sump plate off to do it= pain in the arse but not as much of one as drilling upside down into a hole that is dripping oil on your face.
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an idea but if the bike's dripping oil a bowl of kitty litter under it will stop too much mess (depends where your oil is running to). That's if left outside, otherwise put the drain can there Thumbs Up
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

As predicted, the bike werent having any of the ptfe tape.

What about that metal hardening paste? If i drained the sump properly and cleared it all around the plug and thread with a solvent and then let it dry?

Or i heard about something called a hex plug (i think)? Couldnt find one earlier, but apparently you just bolt it in and it carves its own thread.

As for the drilling idea... how permanent would that be, and how would i go about doing it? Surely you would need a pillar drill to make it 100% straight?

I am sending off for the sump pan et al, should be here within a fortnight. Just wanted a cheap bodge that will hold out until then. Hell id even consider welding.

Also how would you tell if oil had been contaminated by water? I emptied into a freshly cleaned tub and poured back in. Now i think its on reserves, but it feels like it would if its cold when it was reasonably warm. A slight stutter in the revs. Like i say, like it going on reserves, and it seemed to go away when i switched, but now im nicely paranoid.

So thats 30 quid of oil down the drain too. Happy happy joy joy.
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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Git
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:

As for the drilling idea... how permanent would that be, and how would i go about doing it? Surely you would need a pillar drill to make it 100% straight?


Also how would you tell if oil had been contaminated by water?


The drilling and tapping would be pretty much a good permanent repair.
A pillar drill would give piece of mind I guess but a bit of time and care with the hand drill will cause no problems and be pretty much as good as new.

What you will need to do is find the size of the sump bolt on the bike. Once this is known you will be able to go to a tool supplier and ask for a tap and drill the next size up and also a bolt.

The hard bit, trying to explain how to tap the hole.
You will need to drill and tap the sump in the direction the sump plug screws in.
Remove the sump or the plate.
Drill out the bad thread.
Lube the plug hole and tap.
Insert tap squarely and twist 1/2 of a turn or so clockwise.
Back it off a 1/4 to free any loose metal.
Wind the tap clockwise again untill it all tightens up.
Then back off again to reject any cut metal
Then wind it in again till all tightens up
Then back it off again, just carry on like this untill you get a new thread all the way through.

The most important thing is to make sure you go in nice and square and try not to cut too much metal at a time, little by little.

Engine oil and water when mixed usually leaves mayo like muck in nooks and crannies inside the engine. If there is water in the oil you should be able to see it floating on the surface.

If anyone better with words can expand on the tapping method that would be great, my description was ok if you understand it I guess Laughing
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 14 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Git wrote:
bonny_ricardo wrote:

As for the drilling idea... how permanent would that be, and how would i go about doing it? Surely you would need a pillar drill to make it 100% straight?


Also how would you tell if oil had been contaminated by water?


The drilling and tapping would be pretty much a good permanent repair.
A pillar drill would give piece of mind I guess but a bit of time and care with the hand drill will cause no problems and be pretty much as good as new.

What you will need to do is find the size of the sump bolt on the bike. Once this is known you will be able to go to a tool supplier and ask for a tap and drill the next size up and also a bolt.

The hard bit, trying to explain how to tap the hole.
You will need to drill and tap the sump in the direction the sump plug screws in.
Remove the sump or the plate.
Drill out the bad thread.
Lube the plug hole and tap.
Insert tap squarely and twist 1/2 of a turn or so clockwise.
Back it off a 1/4 to free any loose metal.
Wind the tap clockwise again untill it all tightens up.
Then back off again to reject any cut metal
Then wind it in again till all tightens up
Then back it off again, just carry on like this untill you get a new thread all the way through.

The most important thing is to make sure you go in nice and square and try not to cut too much metal at a time, little by little.

Engine oil and water when mixed usually leaves mayo like muck in nooks and crannies inside the engine. If there is water in the oil you should be able to see it floating on the surface.

If anyone better with words can expand on the tapping method that would be great, my description was ok if you understand it I guess Laughing


I understood it pretty well actually. Basically, clean, drill out to smooth, then use tap and go 1 step foward 1 step back the whole way to free metal. Then put in bolt.

However it just seems something i could cock up far too easily, plus its on a stem... so leaves very little margin for error.
____________________
China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 15 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you were to take the sump plate to an 'old school' engineer/mechanic, they could have it drilled, tapped and a bolt fitted in about 10 minutes. They would also have all the bits to do it with.

It is a six pack o' beer job.

If I wanted that done, there is a little garage in my town, father and son job, who patch up peoples old knackered cars and tractors. They would fix it up for me the same day and charge me a fiver. Find a small, privatley owned workshop and ask them if they can do it for you, if they can't, they probably know someone who could.

If there is a machine shop nearby, it is also the kind of thing someone there could do for you in their lunch hour, ask at the workshop door and pay with beer.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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