M8 *1.25 helicoil

[Nobby the Bastard]

Any manufacturer to avoid? Any recommendations?
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Ste]

Two exhaust studs need replacing on Nobby's ST1050.

Time Sert kits are expensive, very expensive.

Heli Coil kits might be slightly too long for the thread depth required.

Other reputable brands such as Draper are less expensive than Heli Coil but they might be inferior to genuine Heli Coil.

Other completely unknown brands call their thread repair things Heli Coil but they might just be AliExpress Temu specials that are made of Chinesium.

What's good? What's not good? How should Nobby spend his money and my time?

[Nobby the Bastard]

One thread, helicoil wouldnt be too long.

Time serts have a lip on the outside whhich will mean the stud would stick out fractionally more than it should, and would potentially prevent the exhaust from sealing tight because of the flange on the studs.

Plus they are ridiculously expensive to get a kit.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[stinkwheel]

Recoil is a decent brand.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[jeremyr62]

I too can recommend Recoil. You can get these on Ebay used for a lot less still with inserts, the drill bit, tap and break off tool.

[WD Forte]

Most inserts are stainless steel and I've used quite a few ebay specials without any issues.
Never had any break or drop out.
I would add that I always did them with plenty or room to work even if I had to drop the engine.
If you're doing it situ and haven't got room to ensure the drill, tap and insert tool can follow the axis of the hole you're repairing, it could compromise the effectiveness of the repair.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[Nobby the Bastard]

Literally the whole front of the bike is already so I'll have plenty of access, just need to remmove the mudguard(s) and a fork leg.

I'll look into Recoil, was just concerned that ebay specials are made from chinesium and didn't want to ruin the head because of it.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Ste]

How successful have people been with drilling, tapping and fitting the inserts in situ?

Is it a case of you'll be fine as long as you're careful or is it a dumb idea that is more likely to go wrong than to be successful?

[stinkwheel]

You already have a pilot hole so it's usualy pretty easy. I personally have a 100% success rate with fitting thread inserts, and being an owner of an Indian Enfield bullet, I've done a few in a variety of sizes. I cocked up the odd insert as it was going in but I just pulled it back out and went in with a new one.

As has been mentioned, the main risk is if you get your drill off centre. The existing hole should guide it pretty well though and an assistant can be helpful to watch from the side and verifty you have the drill straight.

Go slow, consider using an old fashioned hand drill, you're only going into alloy. Mark the drill for depth because you don't want to overshoot and go into the water jacket. Use a proper tap holder and if there's not room for it, make room for it either by taking off the bits that are in the way or using appropriate extensions and/or a ratchet tap handle. Half turn in, quarter back, half in, quarter back.

At least you don't need to worry about swarf getting where it shouldn't.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Robby]

I've been using silverline thread inserts for years. They work fine. The only problem I've come across, particularly when doing exhaust stud hole repairs is that the insert tends to unwind with the stud when I next take it apart.

Seeing as I take exhausts apart infrequently, I just put in a new insert when this happens. I could use loctite, but this is likely to cause even more problems in the future.

[Nobby the Bastard]

Ste has already been roped in to look from the side so that he can check the vertical axis (the studs point down slightly and there are two in line that can be used to check against) whilst I worry about the horizontal one.

Don't have a hand drill but I do have a 2 speed one which is pressure sensitive for speed.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[WD Forte]

If depth of hole for an insert is a concern
measure the depth of the stud hole in the head
and run an insert up an M8 bolt and measure how long it when
expanded over a thread.

IIRC they come in D sizes so an M8 D1 will be 8mm long
where depth ( D1) is equal to the diameter of the thread
and you can usually get Dx1.5, Dx2 and so on and possibly shorter ones
too but was always taught any thread should ideally be at least as long as the diameter.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[Nobby the Bastard]

Was concerned about depth of hole until I used my digital caliper and found it was twice as deep as the stud.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Ste]

Draper Expert for £14 or Recoil for £24?

[stinkwheel]

I'd go draper expert at that price difference. I've got a few expert line tools and they've been very good although I never tried their thread repair kits. Totally different ball game from the normal draper stuff.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Nobby the Bastard]

Final question, do you other with cutting oil?
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Robby]

I do, but mostly because I have some. 3 in 1 will do the job for tapping a thread.

[stinkwheel]

I generally oil my taps. Dunno how necessary it is but I always have. I generally give the hole a good blast out with brake cleaner afterwards anyway to get rid of the swarf. I heavily grease them if it's going into an open bottomed hole where swarf doesn't want to be.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MarJay]

[Nobby the Bastard]

So I'm better off just using anything I have to hand (apart from the chaimsaw blade oil...)

Don't have 3 in 1 but I do have some penetrating oil.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[stinkwheel]

I just use whatever engine oil is in my can. You're going into alloy so it's not going to take a lot of force. You just want it to cut clean and not rip any metal as you go.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

[WD Forte]

I use WD40 when drilling or machining alloy on the wee cnc
and find it works just as good as the more expensive and messy cutting fluid I have.
It helps stop the ally clogging the drills or cutting bits.
Penetrating oil will probably be fine if that's all you have as it helps to
draw heat away from the cutting edge and will give a slight lubricating effect too
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

[Nobby the Bastard]

I prefer a much greater length and girth. If it doesnt make my eye water and I dont cry out in pain I'm not enjoying it. I don't normally bother with lube either.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050