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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 10 Aug 2024    Post subject: So this now has an MOT... Reply with quote

Cool
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/09-08-24.jpg

It only took a full top end engine rebuild and complete brake overhaul...
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 10 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

About fucking time.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update your sig.
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Ste
Not Work Safe



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PostPosted: 16:46 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Update your sig.

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blurredman
World Chat Champion



Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 07:53 - 12 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
CaNsA wrote:
Update your sig.

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Phones are for calls not web pages. Mr. Green
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 39k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 50k.
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Ste
Not Work Safe



Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 12 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a desktop or laptop I'm still not interested in multi coloured walls of text signatures listing bikes owned over possibly decades along with the dates they did their CBT, their theory test, mod 1, mod 2 and whatever other irrelevant information.

Nobody wants to see that attached to every single post.
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blurredman
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 13:53 - 12 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't mind - the Internet is full of archive. At this point it's purpose is to annoy. Laughing
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 39k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 50k.
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A100man
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 10:43 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
On a desktop or laptop I'm still not interested in multi coloured walls of text signatures listing bikes owned over possibly decades..


Is it ok as long as it's in black and white? Eh?
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 10 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/kr1s.jpg

I managed to get a couple of riding pics of the bike (and me). It rides nicely, but the clutch lever feels weird. I found that the clutch lever pivot is 7mm in diameter, but the clutch lever pivot hole is 8mm so I'm going to make up a brass bushing to take up this slack. The brakes go nearly all the way back to the bar, but once they engage they feel good and work spectacularly well for a bike from 1990. This'll be the brand new pistons, cleaned up calipers and new fluid.

The original brake pistons had inserts in them that looked like fibre or ceramic, and the replacements don't have those, so that might feasibly affect the brake travel.

Also, considering it has weird tyre sizes it handles nicely. It took a bit of recalibrating to work out how the bike wants to be ridden, but now I've got it a bit the bike is great fun.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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redeem ouzzer
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 10 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Tokico calipers are a weird one. My friend who has a KR1S has had constant issues with the lever travel increasing following a refresh which he's never really got on top of, even using genuine seals. May be master cylinder related as my GSXR400 race bike uses basically the same calipers and the lever pressure is 100% consistent.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 10:03 - 10 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

redeem ouzzer wrote:
The Tokico calipers are a weird one. My friend who has a KR1S has had constant issues with the lever travel increasing following a refresh which he's never really got on top of, even using genuine seals. May be master cylinder related as my GSXR400 race bike uses basically the same calipers and the lever pressure is 100% consistent.


Could also be down to the original rubber brake hoses!!
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 08:07 - 18 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Could also be down to the original rubber brake hoses!!


Its likely to be more the MC than the hoses but they won't be helping.

When I changed the MC on the Lightweight which was 40 something years old at the time, the brakes became perfect even with the old hoses and extremely easy to bleed.

The rubber seals in the MC wear out and the bores wear so often just rebuilding them doesn't give the full effect of a new one.

Often the brake fluid absorbs water, causes corrosion in the bore which is wiped away by the rubber seals wearing the seals and increasing the size of the bore.
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A100man
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 09:49 - 18 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced whole MC, caliper pistons and seals on teh XJ earlir this year and still no firm lever. Hoses are old but braided and I tried vacuum bleeding and all sorts. In the end I gave up. It's soft but it does at least stop.
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 18 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:


Its likely to be more the MC than the hoses but they won't be helping.

When I changed the MC on the Lightweight which was 40 something years old at the time, the brakes became perfect even with the old hoses and extremely easy to bleed.

The rubber seals in the MC wear out and the bores wear so often just rebuilding them doesn't give the full effect of a new one.

Often the brake fluid absorbs water, causes corrosion in the bore which is wiped away by the rubber seals wearing the seals and increasing the size of the bore.


Thanks Sickpup. I've ordered a Tourmax rebuild kit for the M/C so let's see what happens. The brakes work fine, and I trust them implicitly but the travel is a concern. It feels like the brakes are going to go back to the bar, and a bit of heat in there might mean they will. That said, I used high temperature brake fluid (It's what I had lying around) and it should be very difficult to boil unless I'm riding at race pace, which is not going to happen for a plethora of reasons, not least of which being I'm not that quick and I would have to trust my own mechanical skills enough to take it to Cadwell, which I'm not sure that I do yet!

Still, the bike is ace. It handles so well considering it's got non adjustable forks and I think they might even be damper rod ones... The issue with these always used to be tyre choice but the BT50R on the rear actually seems decent and I've got a modern S21 on the front. I did promise myself I'd never go back to Bridgestone after the 016 debacle on my FireBlade, but these do feel pretty good.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 18 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't have a set, these might come in handy for the rebuild.

Don't know if you've fitted new pads but I've found older types, 10-15 year older types often felt spongy especially GG rated ones.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 18 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

Don't know if you've fitted new pads but I've found older types, 10-15 year older types often felt spongy especially GG rated ones.


Yes I have a trusty set of reversible ones. The brakes aren't spongy, I wouldn't describe it as that at all. It just has loooooads of travel, then engages and is rock solid, but the lever is then 10mm or so from the bar.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Ste
Not Work Safe



Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 18 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is fitting a thicker rotor an option?
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 18 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Is fitting a thicker rotor an option?


Ste:

https://media1.tenor.com/m/JbUPgGq3CcwAAAAC/merica-america.gif
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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redeem ouzzer
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 24 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

SBS Road pads are the mutts nutts in those calipers.

KR1S forks are indeed piston rod and probably the worse part of the whole chassis setup, however my mate had Maxton wave his magic wand at the forks on his and it took a lot of setting up to get them to work well - dissapointing for £600 odd quid. For the road i'd be tempted to make sure there wasn't too much sag (and change the springs if needed) and chuck fresh oil in and leave it at that.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 24 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

redeem ouzzer wrote:
SBS Road pads are the mutts nutts in those calipers.

KR1S forks are indeed piston rod and probably the worse part of the whole chassis setup, however my mate had Maxton wave his magic wand at the forks on his and it took a lot of setting up to get them to work well - dissapointing for £600 odd quid. For the road i'd be tempted to make sure there wasn't too much sag (and change the springs if needed) and chuck fresh oil in and leave it at that.


Yeah it didn't want to turn when I first rode it but I backed off a ring of preload on the forks, and it's bouncy, but manageable. On smooth roads it's amazing, and turns in easily, and tracks corners better than any bike I've ridden in years. When things get bumpy it tends to get out of shape but it's not unmanageable, it's just 'exciting'.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 24 Sep 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recommend cartridge emulators in damper rod forks. Last set I bought were the YSS ones. They work, changed the front end of my Guzzi from awful to OK.

Also Hagon fork springs, because they will take a plain English explanation of what you want and what you weigh, and provide some suitable springs.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 02:21 - 03 Oct 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
The brakes aren't spongy, I wouldn't describe it as that at all. It just has loooooads of travel, then engages and is rock solid, but the lever is then 10mm or so from the bar.


In another thread you said this...

MarJay wrote:
( and have weird ceramic/fibre insert plugs that appear to be not removable so I couldn't use my brake piston pliers...)


These inserts normally sit proud of the pistons by a few MM and contact the pads. If the new Stainless pistons you fitted weren't extended to make up for the lack of inserts then this could and likely would cause your problem. The inserts also insulated the pistons from the pads to help prevent the calipers heating up and brake fade.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 03 Oct 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

In another thread you said this...

MarJay wrote:
( and have weird ceramic/fibre insert plugs that appear to be not removable so I couldn't use my brake piston pliers...)




I mentioned that in this thread too on the 10th of Sept at 10:30:
MarJay wrote:
The original brake pistons had inserts in them that looked like fibre or ceramic, and the replacements don't have those, so that might feasibly affect the brake travel.


I have also been told by a number of different people on the KR1S Facebook group that aftermarket pistons should make no difference to lever travel, and that the heat dissipation properties of the inserts is/are no longer needed with modern brake fluids. The bike has DOT3 stamped on the reservoir…

I think it’s a master cylinder and or brake hose issue.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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