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Parasitic drain again.

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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 22 Nov 2024    Post subject: Parasitic drain again. Reply with quote

This was going to go in ‘Random Banter’ and ‘What was the last thing you bought?’ but it’ll get more karma here so -

A Lascar EasyLog Voltage USB Data Logger to try to assess parasitic drain.

I’ve mentioned this problem before and I wasn’t able to identify the source using a decent-ish meter, but I suspected that ammeter sensitivity (the lift-off point) was the problem. The ammeter might show small current draw to 3 dp at 12 volts but won’t even register low down. I’m using this logger to show voltage drop over 5 days.

Logged battery stored in the house and in a cold garage the battery voltage is stable.

Attached to the Kawasaki there is a voltage drop which (if linear) extrapolates down to 12v after 32 days of disuse, and the battery has certainly been ‘killed’ once already, requiring a recharge.

I’ve pulled the ignition fuse and then the tail light fuse, and the voltage drop has continued to be unacceptable. It’s now monitoring with the headlight fuse pulled. There’s only the fused fan circuit left to assess although I’ll disconnect the alternator/reg-rec charging system later as well.

Frustrating. In comparison the alarm-equipped Yamaha will last for months.

I’m starting to think about using a battery isolator switch, although it’ll be inconvenient.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 22 Nov 2024    Post subject: Re: Parasitic drain again. Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
I’m starting to think about using a battery isolator switch, although it’ll be inconvenient.


I purchased one, with every intention to fit but couldn't really find the space to bolt it on. In the end I contented myself with a Lithium-Ion battery. It wouldn't solve your problem but you can at least see how badly things are going with an easy, push-button LED status display Smile
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doggone
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 22 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are there any after market electrical items on it.
We had a quad bike with similar slow drain it was add-on road kit indicators fitted by dealer was faulty somewhere so just disconnected them as a simple fix as not really needed.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 22 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Past exxperience would indicate the reg/rec has had a diode go a bit leaky.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 22 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant to mention that I’d already switched to a decent lithium-ion battery. It didn’t improve lifespan and these latest readings are based on it. The bike has Oxford rear indicators (second set) so doggone’s observation is interesting. It did have an alarm which I removed and used a couple of paper clips to reconnect to loom.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 22 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Past exxperience would indicate the reg/rec has had a diode go a bit leaky.

I put a new one on but it didn’t help, although I’ll test it again.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 23 Nov 2024    Post subject: Re: Parasitic drain again. Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
..... There’s only the fused fan circuit left to assess although I’ll disconnect the alternator/reg-rec charging system later as well.

If the bike has fuel injection, you could try disconnecting the ECM if those two efforts do not locate the drain.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 23 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

If its flattening the battery the current drain should be identifiable with a standard multimeter set to milliamps. A drain of approx 5 milliiamps is fine, a drain of 100 milliamps will kill the battery in a couple of days.

Put the meter between the battery and positive lead and then unplug things until you identify whats causing the drain.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 25 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
If its flattening the battery the current drain should be identifiable with a standard multimeter set to milliamps. A drain of approx 5 milliiamps is fine, a drain of 100 milliamps will kill the battery in a couple of days.

Put the meter between the battery and positive lead and then unplug things until you identify whats causing the drain.

Tried all that before but got no more than 7 milliamps, from memory. Still working through with the voltage data logger but now I’m wondering if there are non-fused circuits. Alternator? Also I might not have checked the ACC (accessories) fuse because I have no accessories, no idea where an accessory port might be and assumed there was none and it was just a stock Kawasaki fuse box, effectively a spare fuse. However, I read somewhere that it could serve the clocks.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 25 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's why I said between the battery terminal and the lead. It would include all circuits.

If you are getting 7 milliamps between the battery and the lead there is no parasitic drain of note.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 25 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, but left unused for a month the ZX6R will kill batteries whereas a not dissimilar battery on the alarm-equipped R1 is bullet-proof. Something’s not right.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 25 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

what is the current drain on the zx measured the same way?
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 26 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

6 milliamps. I know it makes no sense but it will kill any battery in a month of disuse. I’m wondering if I’m not getting readings because it’s a periodic drain but I can’t relate it to hot nor cold garage temperatures. Ambient humidity maybe? Seems unlikely. Some sort of slow draw by a capacitor or diode followed by a periodic discharge to ground? I’ll keep testing but right now I’m stumped.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 26 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

7 milliamps for a month is 5 Amp hours.

How many Amp hours at the batteries? Have you considered a optimate if it's sitting for a month at a time without use?
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 26 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
7 milliamps for a month is 5 Amp hours.

How many Amp hours at the batteries? Have you considered a optimate if it's sitting for a month at a time without use?

I have no mains power in the garage (although I do have a leisure battery and an inverter for light). I’ve taken the battery out into the kitchen sometimes to save it, but that’s inconvenient. With two bikes I try to alternate but can easily use the Yamaha solidly for a month, by which time the Kawasaki is dead. Also, the fact that the Yamaha doesn’t do this at all tells me this problem ought to be fixable if I can only locate the fault.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 26 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swap the batteries over every two weeks.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 27 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Swap the batteries over every two weeks.

Laughing Different dimensions, unfortunately.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 29 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a leisure battery (ideally with a small solar panel for trickle charging) I would just use that as my in-garage optimate. It's how I charge my (12v, homemade) lawnmower. I have it connected with a magnetic quick connector, even less faff than plugging in an optimate.

Or if you want a brute-force approach to avoiding parasitic drain, fit a battery isolator. Same as disconnecting the battery, without having to use tools.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 29 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:


Or if you want a brute-force approach to avoiding parasitic drain, fit a battery isolator. Same as disconnecting the battery, without having to use tools.

There are some quite neat ones on ebay, you could tuck it out of sight and it would act as additional theft deterrent if they were trying to hot wire it in the dark
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 29 Nov 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I had a leisure battery nearby I'd consider using a LTC3780 buck boost convertor
to trickle charge the bike battery.
The ltc3780 will provide whatever output voltage/current you select
(between 3-30V and 0-8A IIRC) even as the leisure battery voltage drops
I bought one the keep my portable jump pack/USB station topped up from the vans cigar lighter socket
when driving to supply it with 13.9V regulated to about 2 amps
As mentioned above, backing up the leisure battery with a solar panel
will help as well of course.
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