Parasitic drain again.

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

This was going to go in ‘Random Banter’ and ‘What was the last thing you bought?’ but it’ll get more karma here so -

A Lascar EasyLog Voltage USB Data Logger to try to assess parasitic drain.

I’ve mentioned this problem before and I wasn’t able to identify the source using a decent-ish meter, but I suspected that ammeter sensitivity (the lift-off point) was the problem. The ammeter might show small current draw to 3 dp at 12 volts but won’t even register low down. I’m using this logger to show voltage drop over 5 days.

Logged battery stored in the house and in a cold garage the battery voltage is stable.

Attached to the Kawasaki there is a voltage drop which (if linear) extrapolates down to 12v after 32 days of disuse, and the battery has certainly been ‘killed’ once already, requiring a recharge.

I’ve pulled the ignition fuse and then the tail light fuse, and the voltage drop has continued to be unacceptable. It’s now monitoring with the headlight fuse pulled. There’s only the fused fan circuit left to assess although I’ll disconnect the alternator/reg-rec charging system later as well.

Frustrating. In comparison the alarm-equipped Yamaha will last for months.

I’m starting to think about using a battery isolator switch, although it’ll be inconvenient.

[Easy-X]

[doggone]

Are there any after market electrical items on it.
We had a quad bike with similar slow drain it was add-on road kit indicators fitted by dealer was faulty somewhere so just disconnected them as a simple fix as not really needed.

[Nobby the Bastard]

Past exxperience would indicate the reg/rec has had a diode go a bit leaky.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I meant to mention that I’d already switched to a decent lithium-ion battery. It didn’t improve lifespan and these latest readings are based on it. The bike has Oxford rear indicators (second set) so doggone’s observation is interesting. It did have an alarm which I removed and used a couple of paper clips to reconnect to loom.

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

[jeffyjeff]

[Nobby the Bastard]

If its flattening the battery the current drain should be identifiable with a standard multimeter set to milliamps. A drain of approx 5 milliiamps is fine, a drain of 100 milliamps will kill the battery in a couple of days.

Put the meter between the battery and positive lead and then unplug things until you identify whats causing the drain.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

[Nobby the Bastard]

That's why I said between the battery terminal and the lead. It would include all circuits.

If you are getting 7 milliamps between the battery and the lead there is no parasitic drain of note.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Right, but left unused for a month the ZX6R will kill batteries whereas a not dissimilar battery on the alarm-equipped R1 is bullet-proof. Something’s not right.

[Nobby the Bastard]

what is the current drain on the zx measured the same way?
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

6 milliamps. I know it makes no sense but it will kill any battery in a month of disuse. I’m wondering if I’m not getting readings because it’s a periodic drain but I can’t relate it to hot nor cold garage temperatures. Ambient humidity maybe? Seems unlikely. Some sort of slow draw by a capacitor or diode followed by a periodic discharge to ground? I’ll keep testing but right now I’m stumped.

[Nobby the Bastard]

7 milliamps for a month is 5 Amp hours.

How many Amp hours at the batteries? Have you considered a optimate if it's sitting for a month at a time without use?
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

[Nobby the Bastard]

Swap the batteries over every two weeks.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

[Robby]

If you have a leisure battery (ideally with a small solar panel for trickle charging) I would just use that as my in-garage optimate. It's how I charge my (12v, homemade) lawnmower. I have it connected with a magnetic quick connector, even less faff than plugging in an optimate.

Or if you want a brute-force approach to avoiding parasitic drain, fit a battery isolator. Same as disconnecting the battery, without having to use tools.

[doggone]

[WD Forte]

If I had a leisure battery nearby I'd consider using a LTC3780 buck boost convertor
to trickle charge the bike battery.
The ltc3780 will provide whatever output voltage/current you select
(between 3-30V and 0-8A IIRC) even as the leisure battery voltage drops
I bought one the keep my portable jump pack/USB station topped up from the vans cigar lighter socket
when driving to supply it with 13.9V regulated to about 2 amps
As mentioned above, backing up the leisure battery with a solar panel
will help as well of course.
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bikers smell of wee

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I’m still more interested in fixing it than side-stepping the problem with a battery maintainer or isolator. After lots of testing and thinking I must be doing it wrong I’ve decided that although a new, fully-charged, fitted battery will be below 12v in three weeks it’s not the fault of any of the fused circuits (horn, acc, fan, turn, ignition, taillights, headlight). What else could it be, and how would I test? All I can think of is the starter motor, alternator, or what remains of the old alarm loom?

[Nobby the Bastard]

If you are measuring currrent between battery and the poisitive or negative lead you will already be including unfused circuits because you are including everything.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Oh, of course, that’s a good point, thanks Nobby. I just can’t see the wood for the trees at this point.

Resorting to the data logger showed only a constant, slow decline in volts so the bike isn’t intermittently discharging its battery. It’s killed good-brand lead-acids and now a lithium battery. I’m baffled. Looks like I’ll have to manage the problem rather than being able to fix it.

[Copycat73]

was it the stator coil then ?
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Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[Nobby the Bastard]

It would be easy to check. Test current drain between battery and lead. Unplug the rectifier. Test again. Any drop in draw will be the rectifier.

What happens if you pull the main fuse, the plug off the the solenoid, and all the lugs to the rectifier? What current is drawn between battery and the lead?
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050