SYM Wolf 125 Flywheel Puller?

[Ducked]

Anybody tell me how to spec/source a flywheel puller for a SYM Wolf 125?

SYM tool seems to be part number SYM-3111000, but its not easy to find, and probably quite pricy if/when you do.

Internyet has a closely related part number in FRANCE for a little over 100 Euro, plus shipping, but I’m not doing that for something that was probably made in Hsinchu just up the road and might not fit anyway.

There are loads of cheapo generics on Ebay, some of which would almost certainly do the job, but the SYM Wolf 125 isnt in their compatability list and I can't very confidently guess.

AFAICT the Honda CB125 is 14MX1.5

Since the Wolf is supposed to be a clone, it might be expected to be the same, but it seems to be bigger, since a 14X1.5 spark plug is a loose fit.

[lingeringstin...]

That flywheel looks like the same kind of thing on a Jinlun/Lifan/etc engine. I'm using a 233FMM engine and the puller was easy to find cheap, like probably less than £20 or I wouldn't have bought one. I think it may have been one for a Honda engine even. From my experience the tool I have is good for all the 125-250 Honda and Chinese twins I've messed about with and I see no reason why it wouldn't be the same tool for the singles too.

[stinkwheel]

I'll add my honda flywheel puller works for the rotor on the most generic of the generic Chinese scooter/minibike/dirtbike engines, the GY6.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ducked]

Someone sent me a .pdf of the SYM TOOLS catalogue. 190 NT which is about a fiver. Catch is that, according to Taiwan GFs account of her conversation with the local scooter shop, it’s no longer available (plausible planned obsalescence) and they didn’t have it so couldn’t do that job (barely credible half-assery even for Taiwan). Ze plan was then to tour around until I found a shop that would let me put a vernier caliper on the SYM tool so I could order something compatible, but everything shut down for a three day typhoon break. Now back in The UK for 4 months, so I dunno if I’ll be able to identify the right thing here

[Ducked]

I gambled on ordering a generic GY6 24/27 mm puller in The Yook, since that kind of thing is a lot easier and cheaper to source there than in Taiwan, despite all being made in China.

Was only about 6 or 7 quid, but am now back in Taiwan, and unfortunately doesnt fit, so back to trying to find out the spec.

If I cant sus this I'll sadly have to scrap the bike

[stinkwheel]

You could just give it a go with a 3-leg puller. You aren't supposed to use them but they work ok most of the time. The rest of the time they buckle the rotor.

I have also known people remove a rotor with two claw hammers braced against pieces of wood across the casings.

Heating the central hub makes this easier, just careful not to melt the glue.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ducked]

[stinkwheel]

Has it got threaded holes in it? Some flywheels have them in the face if them. You can sometimes use a harmonic balancer puller, or a homemade version of one.

Here's what I came up with to pull the casing off the crank on one of my bikes.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMJ4yfjtgJ8ePhDUsmtZfDvrKc8n4366sPAxkV79C4zr9S6HiZ2WYEmanBf6xXt7CMTSiW0zmTducWTR9Zjc2QJrD-UDXHhxkCa4-Tr4aaLoUQNXDNGHhEhkxlvxlWDN4-0ubOdPYESLk2AkmcOykyc=w1557-h876-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Oh, and if you can work out what the thread size in the centre is, a simple bolt that size will often do it. On some bikes, the rear wheel spindle is the correct size.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ducked]

[Ducked]

Came across this

https://www.partsforscooters.com/202-97-Universal-Parts-Cross-Type-Flywheel-Puller

A Made in Taiwan “Universal” puller. Of course it isn’t really "universal" and there would be a rather slim chance of finding it here in Taiwan, where its made, but I thought I could take its size range as a bolt "shopping list" It does


M10x1.25R
M14x1.5R
M16x1.5R
M18x1.5R
M24x1.0R
M27x1.0L

Got the last two in the tool I bought in the UK, so got one of each of the rest at 5cm long.

M16 seems to fit the thread on the flywheel. AFAICT I need a stub in the crankshaft bolt hole to force against to get the flywheel off. I used an unthreaded cotter pinish thing in my odd fastners tin, a loose fit in the threaded hole, and some thin polythene sheet for lubrication.

No movement after quite a bit of forcing, and the cotter pin thing had bent.

Cut down a bolt to try next (mosquito happy hour stopped play) but I'm a bit concerned that its taking so much force.

[stinkwheel]

A taper fit can get a fair old hold. You should try getting the clutch basket off an MZ engine (mounts on the end of the crank like the alternator flywheel on other bikes). You heat it up, wind on a 3-leg puller until the central thread is creaking then whack the end of the puller with a hammer. It flies off with a lot of energy, to the point you need to be careful not to be in the way of it. My mate positions a cardboard box full of workshop rags next to it you catch his after it flew across the workshop and knocked a lump of concrete out of the wall one time.

So, yeah, some heat applied to the hub of the flywheel can help matters greatly. So the hub expands slightly relative to the crank. Obviously being mindful of there being magnets glued onto it so my usual get it smoking hot advice isn't appropriate in this application. Some judicious use of a heat gun might help though.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ducked]

Rawlbolt, cut down at the threaded end, as a spacer in the crankshaft bolt hole for the 16M to force against, again with thin polythene sheet as lubrication/protection.

A rawlbolt is smooth and seems less likely to damage the internal thread than a loose fitting standard hex-headed threaded bolt.

No movement with quite a lot of forcing. Rawlbolt was flattened on the end and bent, and quite difficult to remove, though a couple of centre punches got it loose eventually.

I have a slightly heavier rawlbolt in (harder) stainless steel that I could try next, or I could cut the shaft off an ordinary bolt and thread it all the way home, with a slight projection and a hacksaw cut for a screwdriver to give me a chance of getting it out again after forcing it.

All a bit alarming

[Ducked]

Stainless loose-fit rawlbolt also bent without flywheel movement.

Hadn't finished cutting the slot in the threaded-fit cut bolt by mosquito happy hour.

[stinkwheel]

I admire your perseverence. May be approaching time to be looking at how much a replacement flywheel is. Often not very much for generic Chinese ones off ebay.

You have to wonder if it's been threadlocked on or has spun up at some point and welded itself to the taper, or maybe mangled the woodroffe key.

If you can source a replacement cheaply, I have a couple of suggestions for destructive removal. One is to just make yourself an attachment point for a 3-leg or harmonic puller by hacking or drilling into the flywheel.

Another is to apply a lot of heat to the centre of the flywheel (a lot, so oil smokes off it) and try again with your current puller

Another is to weld a big nut to the end so you can get a thread that's on one of your existing pullers in there or a even a piece of allthread to use as a slide hammer. The welding heat will help loosen things.

Final one is to carefully cut a slot in the hub of the flywheel then splay it with a cold chisel. I'd suggest doing it over the woodroffe key slot, less metal to cut through and you're cutting down onto the key which is replaceable.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ducked]

Yeh, I'm thinking I must be misunderstanding how this goes together and I'll probably end up busting it accidentally anyway.

Dunno about availability of a replacement. This machine is apparently obsolete (hence the non-availability of the flywheel pulling tool) and keeping old stuff going is very definately NOT part of Taiwan culture.

I ran a 1986 car for a long while here, to mixed incredulity and outrage.

[stinkwheel]

[Ducked]

Got the length of the bolt stub wrong somehow the first time, so had to cut another slice off (and another screwdriver slot) to get enough forcing threads in play.

Ran it down in grease, then wrapped in PTFE tape, then ran it down in greased polythene sheet, which also lubed the forcing threads.

Cylinder packed with rope, socket with sliding T and a pipe extension on the forcing bolt, tighten it up and then hit the end of the pipe sharpish with a club hammer.

On about the 6th whack it let go.

TADA!

I don't think I hit the end of the lever with a hammer the other times, so it could just have been that, or that combined with a better spacer.

No VERY obvious reason for chain slack lack revealed by lifting the flywheel out of the way, BUT I think the chain adjuster screw thing is supposed to have a white plastic (nylon?) end, and this was lying loose, so I'm guessing thats it.

Maybe superglue it back on

[stinkwheel]

Superglue wont do a good bond. If you're going to use an adhesive, I'd go with either a 2-part epoxy or a polyurethane adhesive like gorilla glue. Degrease very thoroughly, assemble with your adhesive then clamp it down (I'd wind it up in a vice) until set.

When using an epoxy or polyurethane to stick a plastic, it can greatly help the bond strength by running a blue flame over the surface of the plastic immediately before bonding. Not enough to melt it, literally a quick lick over with a blue flame. It alters the surface chemistry slightly in a way that encourages a good bond.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ducked]

Thanks. Interesting. I suppose the flame renders the plastic more reactive.

I'm hoping that, once its correctly adjusted, which should be easier now I have the luxury of being able to see it, it'll be held in place and an adhesive bond wont be critical. It probably came off because of maladjustment.

The plastic cap looks a bit chewed up, though not completely destroyed.

I'll enquire about a replacement, though availability might conflict with the planned obsolescence. Somewhere there is an improvisation that fits perfectly, but I probably wont be able to find it.

Hand crafting from a block of nylon MIGHT be possible but looks non-trivial.