Honda (clone) starter clutch re-assembly

[Ducked]

Any tricks?

I was having trouble getting the gear back in to the clutch assembly since it was getting obstructed by the wee steel rollers.

These then fell out, so I took the clutch apart, removing the three bolts by holding the clutch in bare feet Afghan Mechanic stylee, and hitting my spanner with a hammer a lot. This was difficult and probably unnecessary, but at least I can see how the wee rollers are going back in, and give it a clean.

Quite a bit of metal in there, presumably because magnets.

This guy (about 11 mins 20 secs in)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZInpLUVogBY

reckons you can just rotate the gear in, though that didn't seem to be working before I took it apart.

I'll try it again, but thinking I might have to temporarily hold the rollers in with thin (plastic?) shims or tape

[Ducked]

Apologies. Non-issue.

May have helped that I'd seen it apart so inderstood how it worked, and had got the wee rollers and springs in the right places.

Incidentally, I wonder if motorcycle oil gets any benefit from this style of internal alternator. Looked to me like it could be separating ferrous wear metal out magnetically and perhaps centrifugally as well.

Of course these small Hondoids also incorporate an oil spinner, but mine has stuck cross-heads so I dunno what its like inside.

[stinkwheel]

It's not normal to find magnetic material on your alternator in any significant quantity.a) Shouldn't be there in the first place and b) Your centrefugal filter should have caught it.

The cross heads on those filter/spinner covers are tricky. I use a bit in a drill brace to undo them (or most recently a vessel impact screwdriver, lovely bit of kit). On the hondas, you need a JIS bit, not a phillips or posidrive which is why they are almost always burred-out from previous owners. No telling what type they used on Chinese ones without looking at them.

The heads of the screws are very easy to drill off because the cross-head centres the bit and the remaining stub just undoes with pliers once the load is removed from them. Or it has all three times I've done it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ducked]

Yeh, I was thinking of going back in and drilling them out, but then only yesterday, for the first time ever, I broke off the end of a fluted King Tony screw extractor in another mangled motorcycle cross-head screw, the classic worst case scenario. Amazed I havn't done it before

My fault, of course. Lost patience with the non-functionality of locally bought / branded HSS bits and didn't drill deep enough.

Could probably have got something less Hello Kitty but it would been a few hours on bus / train to a half decent tool source.

Maybe some Dormer in the future, if there is a future.



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[stinkwheel]

You shouldn't need an extractor. They are countersunk heads, if you drill down with a drill of the minor diameter (I think they are M5 so a 4.5mm drill will do it), once you get to the shaft, the head will start spinning on the bit. Once the heads are all off you can remove the cover which leaves a stub of screw sticking out that (in my experience) can be easily unscrewed, even with a pair of pliers. Similar story with brake fuid reservoir covers.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.