Kawasaki er5 2005 running issues

[VengefulRat]

So here's a bit of a wall of text.

Bought my Er5 a few months ago. Bought it cheap since it wasn't running well. Got a carb rebuild kit and got that done. After two days of working on those, managed to put them in and with everything on factory spec, started and it's alive! Fantastic! There's also a water leak at the top where the radiator cap is located but not too worried about that. So anyways, back to the issue at hand.

I have the radiator fan now with a switch connected directly to the battery. Whatever is going on with the fan wiring, as soon as it kicks in, the bike either pops the fuse for the fan or it once popped the main fuse of the bike. So the wiring there is dodgy. Also, had the multimeter on and the bike is getting 12.5v charging while idling and even during revving. So I'm pretty sure the reg is gone. i just want to confirm with other people before I take out money for another regulator.

So, that's one issue mentioned. With the carbs, after fitting them and having everything stock. I do notice it is running rich. Back fires a ton when letting off the cash from high revs or changing gears. otherwise, she goes. However, the bike stood for about two weeks while waiting for a clutch cable. Now I'm riding again and this happens.

So will start and get going. But under 3k rpm, she's feeling very heavy. Like there's a whole cylinder missing or something else is preventing spark. Feels like it wants to die. But then suddenly lurches forward and it's all good.

Once I get close to home, she wants to completely give in. If I give throttle, suddenly she bogs, under 5k rpm, bogs. I have to rev her up before I can pull away from most stops.

I know the carbs aren't perfectly tuned but they were running a hell of a lot beter than this. The little dip it takes when revving from idle is something that bothers me. It's the bogging down that makes me pucker up and worry.

So if anyone has some advice, I'm all ears.

Thanks for reading.

And thanks for any help.

[jaffa90]

Hi, is the tank breathing for the fuel to flow, also is there an in-line fuel filter (crap from the tank /tap?) and what fuel tap position are you using and what happens if you leave the tap on PRI position???

[stinkwheel]

So misfiring/running on one at idle. I'd address that first. I'd be thinking electrical. If you can work out which it's misfiring on, you can swap ignition componants over one at a time until it switches sides. A laser thermometer is handy for this because you can check the header pipe temperatures. The old way was to put a drop of oil on the headers and see if it was burning off.

Have you checked the plugs and plug caps. When were the plugs last changed? Are the caps all corroded and manky? The plug sit down into a recess on the head which has a small drain hole which comes out between two of the fake cooling fins on either side of the head. It's a magnet for road dirt and junk. Then if the drain hole gets blocked, it's a water trap. It can land up as an absolute filthy mess of corrosion and road dirt in there.

Don't just go in with a plug spanner, give the recess a good soak in WD40 then blow any detritus out with an airgun, there are often small stones and bits of grit in there which will drop into the engine if not removed first. If you don't have an airline, I've used blu-tak on a stick before. You will also need either ther original plug spanner or a long tube spanner, a normal plug socket won't fit in there.

I'd also check the terminals on the coils are clean and the frame earth from the coils because the brackets often go rusty.

Then charging. Don't assume it's the reg/rec. On some models of EX500 motor, the magnets on the alternator rotor could come adrift then smash and cover everything with magnetic dust. I'd do a test on the alternator.

So the three output wires are where you're testing (3 yellows I think). You want equal resistance between each pair of yellows and an open circuit between each yellow and a frame earth. With the engine running and the meter on volts AC, you want a fairly high voltage between each pair of yellows. It will fluctuate with revs, could go as high as 50v.

That would tend to suggest the alternator function is ok but ultimately, the only real way to check the magnets is to pop the cover off and look.

I presume the air filter is new/clean since you've also had the carbs off.

If you're running it on total loss, I wonder if you're getting enough power.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[blurredman]

I would also test coils, HT leads, spark plugs, and caps and replace whatever fails. I had same problem. It was a long time ago though so a pair of 2nd hand coils was stupidly cheap. The miser in me would not replace multiple items in bulk so readily these days though.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 50k.

[A100man]

Did you flush the tank? Rust and water can cause a lot of issues.
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[WarrSquirrel]

I'll give all the ideas a go.

Also, new account because for the life of me, I can't find my old account. Can't log in and can't reset password.

Anyways. The spark plugs, oil, oil filter, everything is new. Did a full service. Also checked the air filter. It was clean with no blocks. So didn't have to replace that. The HT leads I'll have to check for spark. See what happens when I switch or plug them out or something.

As for the stator. That one I've never run a multimeter on. So I'll check a few vids on how to test it correctly. I'm going to take off the tank tomorrow and undo everything on the cooling at the top and see what needs to be replaced that's causing the leak. As you said, might be water collecting due to gunk build up. So I'll clean that all out as well. Don't have an air gun or compressor but I'll loose it with some cleaner or some kind, and blow it out with a can of air or something like that.

The fuel tap I leave on prime permanently. I have a secondary valve between the carbs and fuel tap. I don't think it's an air lock. But to be safe, I'll pop the petrol cap and ride home with it open and see what happens.

So test test charging on both ends. Clean spark plug holes, just in case. Check tank vacuum and fix water leak. Got a busy two days ahead of me.

[WarrSquirrel]

[jaffa90]

Hi again, """""(The fuel tap I leave on prime permanently. I have a secondary valve between the carbs and fuel tap)"""

Ok then what happens if you leave the secondary valve on as well with the bike doing nowt?

[PotatoHead202...]

That intermittent running sounds like coils
____________________
Suzuki V Strom 1050XT, Honda CBF500 ABS,

[WarrSquirrel]

[WarrSquirrel]

[stinkwheel]

9 out of 10 carburettion problems are electrical.

Two other "features" of the EX500 platform. (I've owned three, two GPZ500ss and a KLE500). These happened on all three of them.

The ignition switch can partially fail. So it gives you all the lights and electrics, including the starter BUT it doesn't give you spark. If it's turning over but not starting, look at the rev counter to see if the needle is ticking as it turns over. If it isn't, be suspicious.

The main supply wire for the loom is prone to corrosion. Tends to cause intermittant loss of all power but probably leads to very poor conducting of power on the lead up to it. If you find the starter solenoid, it has a fuse holder on it for the main 30A fuse. The wire leading from the fuse holder to the ignition switch corroded into oblivion on all three of mine. Usually a fat white wire, it can go at either end but it's worth pulling the fuse holder and having a look. The terminal on the fuse could have a moth-eaten appearance and the terminal may be full of green corrosion. I landed up replacing the whole wire on all three of mine because the corrosion had tracked a long way up the wire under the insulation.

A final carb thing I encountered. They were made before ethanol fuel was a thing. My KLE had a lot of misfires and starting issues and actually set itself on fire because the needle valves in the carb got corroded and stuck variously open or closed. it flooded the airbox on a long run and set fire to itself. Luckily it sucked the flames into the engine and self-extinguished leaving a melted hole in the airbox. I'll add I stripped and ultrasonically cleaned the carbs a couple of months before this happened, the needles were actually furry when I inspected them. Happily, you can buy new, viton-tipped needle valves which are ethanol proof.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[WarrSquirrel]

[PotatoHead202...]

[WarrSquirrel]

So it's been a while I've been riding the bike. It's been dry for the most part and she's been riding really well. On days that it rained, I would get a bigging issue. So I checked first the other stuff. Fuel tap, charging etc. They're all working perfectly. The other day, there was a massive downpour. Managed to get the bike started after a massive struggling and she went. Then there came a second downpour. Man was that even worse.

So now the bike is standing. She starts and idles but can't get revs and power. Here's a video of what happens. Left her to stand for a few days to dry out and see if that does anything. So far, no luck. It's been about five days and still exactly the same issue. I can't see water anywhere. Plugs are dry. Wires are dry. Air box is dry. Nothing changed other than rain. I'm at a loss now.

I the video you will see I have to very lightly touch the throttle. Just a little too much and she dies. If I touch it gently, the revs will climb a little and then start going down until it eventually runs out of fuel almost. But there is fuel. Can stand and idle all day long.

https://youtu.be/FdQfKzSoJLI?si=_p4_GoR8PXojYful

[stinkwheel]

Well, a logical thing to check would be for water in the fuel. Drain the float bowls into a jam-jar and see if there's water in there. You'd see it as droplets or a layer under the fuel once it's settled for a few minutes.

May also be worth popping the air filter out and seeing if there's water in the airbox.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[WarrSquirrel]

[stinkwheel]

Have a look in the tank with a torch then, you can often see water if it's in there. Looks like little beads rolling around in the bottom (or in severe cases, a layer of rusty water).

You also get stuff called Kolor Kut which is a paste you put on the end of a piece of dowel then gently poke it into the deeper recesses of the fuel tank. If there's water there, it will turn red.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[WarrSquirrel]

[stinkwheel]

Only way water can get into the float bowl is from the tank. Only way it can get into the tank is from the filler or breather.

If the breather is blocked, it could suck in through the cap lock when a vacuum occurrs in the tank such as when running the engine or if the temperature drops.

So I'd check the tank breather isn't pinched or blocked somewhere, fuel cap seal and the drain under the fuel cap (which should drain any water or fuel overfill from the rim round the filler hole) first off.

I'd also check in the tank for water as per my previous post, you may need to drain it if water has accumulated.

Water can also get in the tank if ethanol fuel has sat in there too long. The ethanol absorbs water from the atmosphere over time and if it absorbs over a certain amount, it splits from the fuel forming a layer of dilute ethanol under the fuel.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[WarrSquirrel]

[Easy-X]

Random ER5 tank schematic:

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/kawasaki-er500-c3-er-5-2003-europe-middle-east-africa-uk-fuel-tank_big3IMG01216737_152b.gif

If you think of the recess around the filler cap as guttering then the pipe "92191" is the downpipe. If the area round the filler cap fills up with water and the pipe is blocked or kinked and the cap isn't perfectly sealing water might creep in.

A quick test you could do is get a cup full of petrol and pour it around the fuel cap recess. Now look under the bike and see if/where the petrol is dripping out to help trace how the pipe is run.

You could pour water instead but 1) you might end up adding more water to your tank! and 2) petrol's a solvent so it might dissolve some crud in the troublesome pipe.

<edit> typo, thanks Raffles!
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WarrSquirrel]

[A100man]

[Raffles]