24 Eliminator, brake light on with ignition.

[Tony Norton]

Help!

I went for a run in the country yesterday and got fed up with having to keep my right toe lifted to ensure I was not riding the rear brake.

This morning I put the bike on paddock stands and adjusted the rear brake pedal down about a centimeter. That doesn't take much adjustment on the thrust rod. Now, when I switch on the ignition, the brake light is on. Neither front nor rear brakes are engaged, which is verified by the fact that both wheels spin easily.

When I raise the pedal back to it's original position the brake light still comes on with the ignition.

Does anybody know just what is going on?

Any advice would be most welcome.

Cheers
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Newbie in 2021 at 83. Now the proud holder of an A2 licence. That's far enough! Bikes: YSL 125, AJS Cadwell, Honda Rebel 500, Z300 (to get through A2 Mod 1), MT-07 (Restricted), Eliminator 500.

[Easy-X]

If the pedal's gone down the other end must have gone up and usually this end is connected to a switch. This switch will need moving/adjusting.
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[blurredman]

Indeed. Switch will need manual calibration. Or just unplug it.
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.

[Tony Norton]

[stinkwheel]

[Easy-X]

I don't think it's a hydraulic switch but I'll admit I struggled to figure out how it's done from the parts diagram.

https://i.imgur.com/KoniwUI.png

Source: https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/65aa036dd10fbdf58374f9c5/ignition-switch-locks-reflectors

If I were to guess I'd say screw 120A interfaces with microswitch 27010A in such a way that when you press the pedal down the microswitch opens and the magic happens. One would need to release the locking nut 317, screw in 120A until the 27010A is closed... I think... maybe...
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

[Tony Norton]

[stinkwheel]

If the above pisture is accurate, the black line from the mounting bolt (220) to the bracket shows where the switch attaches to the frame lug. I circled it in red.

You should find and adjuster bolt and locknut on the inside face of the brake lever, screwed up from the bottom into a lug which sticks out from the top edge of the lever, just in front of the pivot.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Tony Norton]

Stinkwheel,

you,sir, are a scholar and a gentleman. The info you gave me was exactly what I needed. I never realised how easy it was to get to the switch adjustment.

The only snag I had to overcome was that the hex skt set screw that Kawasaki fit is only 30mm long, and even when fully screwed in, the brake light would not go off. I tested it with a 50mm long 8mm button head (bright stainless steel) I had in stock, and calculated that I needed 40mm length. a small quantity of black (stainless steel) socket caps will be with me tomorrow. Amazon is a handy shop.

Once again, many thanks, and thanks also to Easy-X, who started off this train of thought.

Tony
____________________
Newbie in 2021 at 83. Now the proud holder of an A2 licence. That's far enough! Bikes: YSL 125, AJS Cadwell, Honda Rebel 500, Z300 (to get through A2 Mod 1), MT-07 (Restricted), Eliminator 500.