Rear hub stud unscrewed.

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I’m putting a new chain and sprockets on my 2003 R1. All seemed to be going well until I undid the self-locking nuts from the drive hub to remove the rear sprocket. One of the nuts didn’t release its grip and just unscrewed the whole stud instead. I can’t see any swarf so should I just screw it back in and finish the job? (Seems unlikely knowing my luck.)

https://i.postimg.cc/YS8dMrPm/IMG-1005.png

https://i.postimg.cc/VvZgMKws/IMG_1941.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/zBj0DJPg/IMG_1942.jpg

[BanditsHigh]

Yes, maybe chuck for thread lock on it for peace of mind

[stinkwheel]

If it was me, I'd lock two nuts on the end of the stud, undo the nylok nut, clean the threads then re-insert the stud with blue loctite and reassemble as normal.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Copycat73]

i would buy new .. they are not that much from fowlers , Bristol.
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Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

It was the inner thread I was concerned about but the stud went back in without any more drama and the rear sprocket is on.

My new Wemoto chain tool (£24 cheap but their only other offering was a knock-off DID tool) has holes in the press plate that don’t quite align with the rivets so I can’t install the chain’s side plate. Chinese quality control. I’m now considering whether I should drill the tool to try to make it fit, or buy a better tool (though they all seem to be made in China).

[BanditsHigh]

As mentioned by both stinkwheel and myself, you need to put threadlock on it ... vibration will not undo the lock nut, but it can make the stud work its way out ... I speak from experience

[Fizzer Thou]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I blue Loctite’d it as suggested although the service manual doesn’t require that, but I found an on-line discussion suggesting the torque setting given in the service manual is too high.

https://www.600riders.com/threads/rear-sprocket-carrier-failed-studs.53487/

That, combined with those initially lubricated threads and the age-hardened Nyloc nuts convinced me to tighten using “feel” (and I’ve poo-poohed that advice in the past but having used torque wrenches for some time now I think I have developed “feel”). That translated to 70Nm instead of 100, but I’ll check after a few miles.

I’m sending the chain tool back to Wemoto for a refund and I’ve stumped up for an authentic DID chain tool from M&P. The Wemoto’s side-plate insertion plate has holes about 2mm too far apart when compared to the chain rivets, as shown alongside the rivet “potato-prints” in the photos.

https://i.postimg.cc/x1SqNZ4G/IMG-1944.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/6QMQSp5z/IMG-1946.jpg

[Pete.]

Honda Blackbird specifies 108NM
'busa and GSXR1000 specify 60nm

I'd replace the stud with permanent threadlock because they are not intended for removal, and torque the nut to the factory spec with no threadlock.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good