Racks, aren't common; do come up occasionally, but not often.
DAFT Idea but you will probably see more bikes sold spares or repairs with a rack than racks sold on thier own. Contact seller see if they will sell rack on its own, or buy whole bike Filtch rack & sell on - you may even make a profit!
Personally, get her a 'cheap' £50 top box that comes with base-plate, preferably the metal one. Snowie has the FC-Moto branded 45l box on her 'Dream and it DONT look out of proportion; takes two full face hats or full face and room for water-proofs boots and some shopping!
Get local welder/black-smith/college metal-work technician to make up a bracket to support the base-plate, using grab-rail mounts as support.
Electrical System is pretty 'good' on the Super-Dream. Cant remember the rating OTMH but for a 125, its got a big genny and a big battery. Especially a 125 of its era!
Was first e-start only 125 and Honda wanted to be sure of reliable starting, so were a bit belt & braces.
However, that's still not necesserily amazing.
Snowie's bike has 35w Discharge headlamp & LED Side; LED dash & LED indicators, as well as electronic timer to lower current loadings, + LED tail
There are two bacl-lights for the dash, rated I think 4.8w? They draw more current than the side light... as does the Neutral lamp, and indy tell-tale.
Personally for DTRL - I advice JUST using the side light..... NOT 'dip-beam' ANYWAY......
Its enough to bright up the headlamp shell, which is all you need...'really' for conspicuity..... but its swings and round-abouts.....
Studies show; drivers SEE but dont recognise what they see, and even when they DO recognise they still mis-judge!
Conclusion normally that with DTRL's they are more likely to see, slightly more likely to recognise, and slightly more likely to mis-jusdge!
Trundling around town; never doing a longer run, and not using too many revs too often..... to keep the battery fully charged.....
Make life easy for yourself:-
Arrow HOW2: Top End Rebuild Honda CB125 (Benley Motor)
You might be able to free the bores off, with two-stroke oil down the spark plug holes and gently working the crank round on the rotor bolt, BUT.
These bikes suffer horribly from long lay-up. They have tiny pistons & they are a very high performance motor for thier size, reving to 12,000rpm, and they start to go 'off' and loose performance just for slightly worn piston rings.
Layed up rings stick in the piston grooves, long before the pistons sieze in the bore. Freed-off, they will run, and often run reasonably well, but within 500 miles they will die... horibly. The gummed rings let the piston run on the bore, you get incredibly accelerated bore wear, burned oil and then the motor just stops running.
Other things is the valve seats rust, and need grinding, and you cant remidy that without opening the engine....
AND you presume the motor is siezed due to pistons stuck in the bores, I would not discount the fact that the engine was pre-siezed, by being run out of oil..... good reason it has sat for two decades unused that.... or two decades has seen oil replaced slowly by condensation & the main crank bearings rust.
I have done a number of these bikes, and have had to rebuild at least three engines from long-lay-up problems, which weren't so bad pistons were glued in bores.
Is so NOT a 250 'Super-Dream' engine.
250 Super-Dream was the Honda CB250N, and used a sleeved down 400N engine; that's a totally different 'family' of engine to the CB125 'Super-Dream' that uses the 'Benley' based engine.
VERY difficult to shoe horn a 250N engine into a 125 Super-Dream frame; its a lot taller, a lot longer, being basically a 500 lump, with counter-balence shafts and stuff, and has completely different engine mountings, meaning the frame would have to be very signiticantly modified to make it fit.
THAT bike, I suspect may be yours was sold a few weeks ago on e-bay, chap selling it spamming on Super-Dream threads on here.....
Fitted with a CB Two-Fifty engine..... IF its a 250 engine.
CB Two-Fifty, 'Night-Hawk' or CM250 Rebel (of the right era) uses the small-block benley engine, same as the CB125, and is almost bolt for bolt interchangeable in the frame.
Its not actually 250cc, its 233cc, and often called the 233 'engine', and it differs from the 125 Super-Dream motor in a number of ways, apart from the bore & stroke dimensions that are 53x53 instead of 41x44. Most of the Benley family motors use a 360 degree crank. that is the pistons in both barels rise & fall at the same time. 125 S-D has 180 crank, one piston up, one piston down. This gives a different firing interval, and where the 360 engines have a single 'siamese' coil firing both cylinders triggered by a single ignition circuit, Super-Dream has two almost independent ignition systems firing individual coils at the different timings. Likewise the cam-shaft has to open & close the valves at different intervals, so has different lobe phasings, and actually a much softer profile. Comporession ratio is also lower, and the engine is designed to run on a single carburettor, not the two of a Super-Dream.
New barels & pistons are about £90, I would PLAN on doing a top end rebuild as 'course', but hold of ordering expensive bits until I had opened the top and seen what I was dealing with and whether it was really worth doing, and had some idea whether the crank was serviceable.
Using approved stance & covering rear brake at junctions in the 'Fafety-Possition' burning 21w of stop lamp....
No.... quite likely you will have sluggish starting after a week or so.....
As said, snowie's bike is 'load minimised', and her headlamp 10W down on stock, and EVERYTHING else majorly de-rated, and she tends to use 'low' beam in day-light, and I am forever having to charge the battery if the bike doesn't 'catch' first try after she hasn't used it for more than two days.....
Current draw from alarm, though being main culprit on that one.
If you haven't already read the Pup-Thread... do so - (clicky-link in my profile)
Could be just a tired engine....
OR.... carburation. 233 motors are mostly intended to run on a single carb. Has it got the carb from the 233 engine & single manifold, becouse that would mean dumping teh Super-Dream air-boxes, and would put the mouth of the carb close to the mono-shock top mount, which can cause some eratic carburation.
If its got the 125's twin-carbs, well, then its probably rather more than a little under-carburated and the carbs will be jetted very wrongly for that engine.
UK spec Super-Dream 125 rund two 14mm Keihin carbs, but is teh de-tuned 'Reduced-effect' model. The full power 125 ran twin 26mm Keihins, with different jets, and that was to let the little 125 breath at the high revs it turns and make 17bhp.
Night-Hawk motor makes about 19bhp, but at lower revs..... so going by the power rating the twin-carbs from the 125 Super-Dream would be too small for the power of the night-hawk motor, while jetting in either 24 or 26mm carb would not necesserily suit the 233 motor that is in a very different state of tune.....
So, carburation problems could be a factor, and again, we dont know how the bikes been hybridised......
And then we have the common bug-bears of the Super-Dream of rusty tanks, silted up fuel taps, and sticky float needles, that could ALL contribute to the sort of symptoms you describe.....
and THAT is just if its as I suspect a 233 motor, not the older 250N lump!
To help you...... and it sounds like you need a lot!..... we need to know a hell of a lot more about your bike; what it IS, and what's been done to it, to give you the mongrel you got, because it ENT going to be in any Haynes manual..... its a Hot-Rod and this is the kind of problems you get buying one!
Oh.. and if it is LOR-Y, then we only have the 'suggestion' its a 233 motor, made by the e-bay seller, who claims to have identified it as a CB250 engine..... from pics in that add, I'm not so sure. Could be a CM250 engine, could be a CMX250 engine, could be a CD250U lump. Could also be a CD200 engine, or even a CM125 or CD125.....
It will be a case of suck-it-and-see, really.
Replacing ALl the propriety bulbs with LED replacements was effoff expensive... I think that the five peanut bulbs for the dash were something stupid like £9 a pair! Then the side-light, something like £15 for two, while to get an LED tail-lamp bulb with ;mixed' red & White LED's to shine through the number-plate lamp, doubled cost of that one, again having to buy in 'pairs'; think that ALL the bulbs excluding the Discharge head-lamp were something like £90 with electronic flasher.....
When it came to doing my DT, I went back to basics & spent £30 on component LED's and restistors..... did ALL the dash-lights, used a proprietyr 'red' LED bulb for the tail, and added white LED's for the number-plate........ much cheaper!
Keeping it low-rent... be tempted to suggest you make up LED dash-lamps.... from components... that will take a good 15W of load off the system....
Then I'd fit 'red' LED bulb to tail, and add some whites for the number-plate... and possibly, as the LED's dont 'fill' the tail-lamp so well, though are brighter.... add a few additional reds dogged into the tail & stops....
Tail-Lamp is notoriousely 'flakey' BTW if messing pay attension to the holder... its a wampy design with the earth following toriouse route! Drilled through a few cases to make secure earth almost direct to bulb before now!
Maybe a mini-project dumping bulb-holder all together and filling back-lense with 6mm LED's?
So you have a spark.... is it at the right time? Try swapping the LT wires on the coils, see if they are the wrong way round (could have timed cam in 360 about to what it was)
Carbs are 'clean' - are they getting fuel. Sediment in the tanks is a bitch on these bikes. Fuel tap silts up, but even cleaned, tank can still have a lot of crap choking flow.
BUT.. compression. When I rebuild I use two-stroke oil as assembly lube to make sure that stuff is not rubbing 'dry'. Also helps give a little compression on first fire, BUT, first fire has to burn off excess assembly lube (why I use more easily combusted two-stroke oil)
Have you used assembly lube? Is there still a lot floating around?
If you haven't. then get some down the plug holes before you snag a ring! If you have, plugs out, charge battery & let it windmill on the starter for a while pumping oil round, and dispelling excess from bores down the exhaust & out the plug hole.
Clean plug, splash of neat petrol through plug holes before fitting, give it a waz, throttle wide open, see if it will catch. Then down to old fasioned de-bugging.
Before assembly did you clean the valves & seats after lapping properly? Have you set the tappets? After lapping best set a little on the wide side to let the valves 'bed' on first fire, then re-adjust after 'burn-in' idle running / first run, before final fettle.
Carb-Rubbers? Air-Leaks? Choke Mechanism?
Eliminate carbs with neat fuel down the throats and a wide open throttle, see if she kicks in, when mixture depleated to stoic!
We did that to the reflective strip on Snowie's top-box....
ANYWAY....
Answer is, it OUGHT to be OK, but depends if she revs the knackers off it and or does enough longer runs!
LED's though can be helpful...... |
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