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Advice on refurbing headlamp bezel

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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 05 Dec 2025    Post subject: Advice on refurbing headlamp bezel Reply with quote

My son rides a Triumph Street Twin, which is in great nick except that it's afflicted by a rusty headlamp bezel. After discovering that a new one would set him back nearly £150 (seriously, Triumph?) he decided he'd just live with it - but I know it really pisses him off.

Anyway.

I decided I'd have a look for a second-hand one, and do it up for him as an Xmas present. Nice, huh? So I sourced this on eBay for a couple of quid - obviously they're all similarly afflicted - and now need to sort it:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/s~EAAeSwHXVoWbQP/s-l960.webp

So, could really do with some advice on how best to proceed (I've already found the correct rattle can). Get rid of the paint and rust with wire brush and sand paper, then some sort of rust treatment? Can I use brush-on undercoat followed by wet-and-dry paper, before wielding the rattle can?
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virus
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 05 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wire brush and sandpaper will eventually get the job done but this is the sort of thing thats perfect for a quick 5 min sandblast if you have any local blasting/powdercoat/engineering firms nearby that you can pop in and charm.

once its stripped back then something like neutrarust 661 painted on will prevent it rusting again, then prime and paint.

There are many ways to skin a cat with this one, if you want it done well and forever then sandblasting and recroming/powdercoating wouldprobably give the longest lasting and most 'professional' looking effect, it all depends on your budget.

I can get it in the sandblaster at work quickly for you if your nearby worcestershire.
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stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 05 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

De-clag with a flap wheel, de-grease, de-rust and etch with muriatic acid. Neutralise under a tap. Polyurethane paint. Or cerakote if you're feeling flush.

Brand new chrome Lucas light bezels are cheap, would need some bracketry making.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 06 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

i look for somewhere that does chrome plating
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 06 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could obtain a nice finish if you remove the old paint with a wire wheel, rub it up with wet-dry sandpaper, say 600 grit or higher, then polish to a smooth finish with rubbing compound. You can then spray it with a clear coat so that the rust doesn't return.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 07 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all. Decided the sandblasting looked like a good shout especially as the bezel's got so many nooks and crannies, and have found a place up the road who's going to do it for me.

Rater than chroming, the intention was always just to reinstate the original silver paint, which matches elsewhere on the bike, and I've already ordered in the correct rattle can.

Question: muriatic acid... a name I'd never heard before: that's hydrochloric acid, right? Can I use brick acid, which I already have in stock (mine is "Feb Brick Cleaner" - acid-based cleaner and degreaser - "...contains hydrochloric acid...") - no idea about concentrations.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 07 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:
Thanks all. Decided the sandblasting looked like a good shout especially as the bezel's got so many nooks and crannies, and have found a place up the road who's going to do it for me.

Rater than chroming, the intention was always just to reinstate the original silver paint, which matches elsewhere on the bike, and I've already ordered in the correct rattle can.

Question: muriatic acid... a name I'd never heard before: that's hydrochloric acid, right? Can I use brick acid, which I already have in stock (mine is "Feb Brick Cleaner" - acid-based cleaner and degreaser - "...contains hydrochloric acid...") - no idea about concentrations.


Yes muriatic acid is an old name for hydrochloric acid, Brick acid is mostly hydrochloric acid and should work.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 07 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, good old fashioned HCl. Murine referrs to mice in latin, it smells of mouse piss.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 08 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:
Question: muriatic acid... a name I'd never heard before: that's hydrochloric acid, right? Can I use brick acid, which I already have in stock (mine is "Feb Brick Cleaner" - acid-based cleaner and degreaser - "...contains hydrochloric acid...") - no idea about concentrations.


Brick acid is normally muriatic acid, check the data sheet.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 11 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Me again.

So the bezel's now back from the sandblasters; this is how it now looks; ie no other treatment yet:

https://i.postimg.cc/Zn1L3w5M/bexel.jpg

Quite a lot of pitting evident from the rust, which I'm assuming wants treating with some sort of filler after acid treatment. I've got some of this stuff in the garage; will that be OK?
https://classiccarpaintsdirect.com/shop/body-fillers/impa-finissage-multipurpose-filler-180g-tube/

Also found some Hammerite Kurust - is that worth applying as well as/instead of the acid?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 11 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pitting looks consistent but not very deep. Maybe a few layers of spray-on primer filler paint would cheer it up.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 11 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

A "high build etch primer" then a sand down would do the trick. Then paint. Then I'd consider a polyurethane based clear which isn't as shiny as the usual clear but it extremely tough.

The more time you spend on the sanding, the better the result.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 11 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
A "high build etch primer" then a sand down would do the trick.

OK, thanks. Every day's a schoolday here... so this stuff goes straight on to the bare metal, with no muriatic acid or rust killer etc?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 11 Dec 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:

OK, thanks. Every day's a schoolday here... so this stuff goes straight on to the bare metal, with no muriatic acid or rust killer etc?


It's been blasted so any loose stuff is gone by now. The muriatic would have been to get rid of that instead of blasting. The etch primer will stabilise any flash rust. It's basically got an acid in it anyway. Sticks to bare metal like shit to a blanket. The high build stuff will go a long way to levelling out those pits.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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