Twin sparking a single cylinder. Plug gaps and caps?

[WD Forte]

OK mad idea 2
You see the first gear after the crank with a hole in it?
(Assuming it runs at half crank speed)
A sensor mounted on the cover with an IR opto or hall effect device could sense the absence of material
response to trigger an ignition event with far less back lash.

If the gear (the exhaust valve cam I assume?) is keyed then that would help fix the position of a sensor
otherwise it would need to be determined so if it was ever removed, refitted in the exactly the same position.

I'll also assume that others have had their own solutions to this and not sure how good or feckin expensive
they are.
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bikers smell of wee

[lingeringstin...]

Ah, I see the problem with the Wipac-style thingy being rather small and there not being enough room to faff about in there.

My simple cheapo Chinese rotor with an external AC CDI works great. You can literally start the bike by cranking the rotor bolt by hand with a socket if you feel like it and it will push start easily without even a battery. But it takes up space that you don't have. A conundrum indeed.

Any chance of running a dry clutch and fabricating or modifying a cover to take the GY6 rotor gubbins?

[lingeringstin...]

Hang on, does one even NEED a cover there? Why not just get jiggy with shaft seals and run an open primary kind of thing? Yes it would look retarded but it would free up some space for alternator shenanigans.

I once ruined one of my experimental engines by forgetting to put oil in it when I fitted it to the bike and after a couple of days the con rods started to knock. Once I realised that I'd neglected to put oil in the damned thing I took the engine off and stripped it down to see what the damages were. The crank and cam had gone to pot but the clutch and gearbox seemed not to have suffered any damage at all. I had been running a dry clutch all that time and it just worked fine. Made me wonder why the clutch was designed to exist in an oil bath anyway. It didn't seem bothered by running dry.

Of course I have no experience with Enfields so it's just a thought.



MEANWHILE, THE NEXT MORNING IN THE GARAGE...

Sips coffee. Remembers looking at that Enfield pic of the vaguely Wipac looking air gapped alternator. Remembers when I cobbled one of those onto my MZ engine. Worked pretty well actually. Don't know why people hate them so much...

Sips coffee. Thinks about that picture of the Enfield clutch with the chain etc. Never had one like that myself but as I recall they use a different grade of oil in there to what's in the engine. ATF or something generally gets recommended I think. Hmmm.

WAIT A MINUTE- (spits out coffee)

How the feck does an air gapped alternator live in the same case as an oil bath clutch? Bloody Hell. I really need to pay more attention to things before chucking my theories into the fray.

Please disregard that erroneous tale of ruining a brand new engine rebuild by forgetting to put oil in it. Nobody would ever do such a thing. Especially me.

Looks at pile of engine bits in the corner.

SHUT UP YOU. THIS IS JUST OUR DIRTY SECRET.

Now my coffee's cold. Feck.

[WD Forte]

A lot of bike alternators live in an oily chamber
I did wonder about Stinkers RE setup myself but looking at the primary chain I reckoned/assumed it needed lube in real ife and the pic we see
is a nice clean 'during assembly' pic.
Mind you, waddooino? maybe it does run dry.
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bikers smell of wee