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A few questions.

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MattShill
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 13 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 25 May 2005    Post subject: A few questions. Reply with quote

I've been riding for about 2 months now and I'm loving it, got used to the bike, feeling like a more confidant road user. I've got a few questions though, which you fellows might be able to help with.

I was riding the other day on an A road, I was doing a 25 mile loop on busier roads since I've spent most my time round town and little country roads so far. I got the 4 gear CG up to about 65 to overtake a slow lorry and held it there for a while, before realising that the tach was deep into the redline (about 9-10k) and rolling off. Will this kind of strain damage the bike?

After going at 60 for about 10 mins, the tach started jumping about, similar to when its running out of fuel. The power to the wheel seemed to be constant though, and I was keeping at a steady speed. Does this suggest a problem with the tach, since surely the revs are linked to the speed of the wheel? Even at lower speed I was getting the same problem once it had started. If I took it above 6k rmp it was still giving erratic readings.

Finally, what about helmet storage? I'm using the bike to commute fairly regulary now, but I can only take it to places where I can securely store my jacket and helmet or have to carry them round. Am I missing anything obvious? I'm apprehensive about leaving the lid with the bike as it's my dad's old Arai. Seems the best thing might be to get a cheaper helmet for commuting if the worst it'll see is low speed spills and just secure it to the bike.

Anyway, your help'd be great.
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'98 Kwak ER-5
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 25 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The redline is there to indicate the maximum revs you should take the bike up to. That said, being a push-rod engine, the worst that is likley to happen is you float the valves. Still not recommended though.

Try oiling the tacho cable to see if this stops the bouncing.

If you are in town, you could get a lockable top-box. Or you can thread your chain through the chinpiece of the lid.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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mchaggis
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 May 2004
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 25 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The CG engine in my bike spends most of it's life past the red line. I've not noticed any ill effects so far after 3000 miles, though I have been replacing the oil every 750-1000 miles. I did think it was trying to sieze the other day, but I was going head into a very strong wind so the apparent lack of power might just have been that.

I've only experienced valve float/ bounce the once, and that was when it was really revving too high. The speedo was holding a steady 70 down a very big hill with the wind behind me. (The speedo never indicates anything much more than 60). You can tell by the sound of the engine when it is revving too high, it just doesn't sound well.

As for the tacho, if it is electrical, mine did something very similar. I never bothered fixing it when it bit the dust completely.
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Gracie Jones
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 31 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 25 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the needles are bouncing around, check the battery is connected properly.
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MattShill
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 13 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 27 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone, that's helpful. I take it valve float is when there's no time for it to fully open and close so it just rumbles around in the middle feeling sorry for itself?

I'll check the connections, oil the cable and see if it sorts itself out.

Cheers,

Matt
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'98 Kwak ER-5
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 27 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it in one. Valve float is when the push rod is trying to open the valves faster than the spring can close them again so you land up with them half open all the time (which doesn't work)

As to the rev counter, some are mechanically operated by a spinning cable from the engine, a sticky cable can cause the needle to bounce about (hence my oil the cable advice). Others are electronic and can be upset by a fluctuating power supply. Yours will be one or the other.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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