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Carb tuning for a Race can

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cc123
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Joined: 17 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Carb tuning for a Race can Reply with quote

Has anyone ever had to do this before?

I've ordered a Viper race can and have been told that I may have to play with the carb settings to get the bike running right. My old Ninja needed no adjustment but thats a few people told me that Viper cans make the bike run crap unless the carbs are set up...

Any thoughts?
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Re: Carb tuning for a Race can Reply with quote

'Needs no adjustment' doesn't always mean that it wouldn't benifit from some adjustment - it's advisable to get it done anyway when changing, as it's probably out for the original can, never mind the new one you're puitting on.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 13:58 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Likely to need some playing with, and unless everything is close it will be just about impossible to do it yourself.

All the best

Keith
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cc123
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PostPosted: 14:28 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

So whats the chances of the bike running right from the min I put the can on?

As I said, my last can ran fine on the standard carb settings....
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G
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will probably run 'ok', but some parts of the rev range may be worse than before etc.

How much you will notice is another manner, still worth doing - if nothing else you may save some money you spent on fuel economy etc.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

cc123 wrote:
So whats the chances of the bike running right from the min I put the can on?


Depends how tolerant you are of it not being quite right. Chance of it running as well as it does on a standard exhaust is pretty close to zero.

Remember that running lean can help to trigger detonation, and possibly a holed piston.

All the best

Keith
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cc123
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll run that past my mate, hes the one thats ordered the can for me so he can set the bugger up, also getting him to do my pads and service the front brakes.

Does it just depend on the make of can? My old MIVV was designed to run on the standard fuel settings but was absolutely biblical noise wise and the bike ran great after it getting fitted.

OH, and how will I know if the bike IS running lean?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 17:24 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Opinion of those selling race cans is that if it does work with the standard jetting then it is luck.

Mivv normally make complete replacement exhausts (think they are also an original supplier to some of the European factories).

You won't know it is running lean. Slightly down on power, and not likely to be a problem except under certain conditions (high load up hill, hot day, high altitude, for example). Some bikes are prone to holing pistons (old GPZ550 for example) and on these it would certainly help them on their way.

All the best

Keith
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't high altitude cause the bike to run richer and compensate for the leaness caused by the can?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 19:19 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Possibly would, but the same reduced pressure is working on other bits of the carbs. CV carb works by using the difference in pressure between the air going through the carb and general air pressure to live the slide / needle. Possible that you might have a higher pressure drop in far thinner air. Mind you the same applies to the air pressure in the float bowl To be honest do not know enough to be certain either way.

Maybe I should have said extremes of pressure and temperature.

By the way, an exhaust might well not cause a lean problem, or may well cause it to be lean at some revs and rich at others. For a very rough example the Bandit has a full Akrapovic system and was jetted for running without the road baffle. Stick the road baffle in and it gets a flat spot around 3000rpm, which is worse when cold (and pretty awful when the engine is cold and it is a cold day). Currenty fixed by lifting the needles half a notch to richen the mixture.

All the best

Keith
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cc123
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help, I'll try running the can for a few days to see if I notice a difference. The idea was eventually get a Dynojey kit and K&N, then set the bike up on the dyno bt was going so wait a few months vefore splashing the cash.
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the grim reaper
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always gas test a bike after putting a new exhaust on it. If you use a decent gas tester then you can check the CO2 content across the rev range. I know a lot of exhaust manufacturers like to claim that the exhaust 'requires no rejetting' but there will always be some change in the running of the bike, unless it has a lamda sensor.

A free flowing exhaust will always run differently to the original can. Re-jetting and shifting/changing carb needles will almost always give a better performance.

Cheers

Grim
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 18 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Possibly would, but the same reduced pressure is working on other bits of the carbs. CV carb works by using the difference in pressure between the air going through the carb and general air pressure to live the slide / needle. Possible that you might have a higher pressure drop in far thinner air. Mind you the same applies to the air pressure in the float bowl To be honest do not know enough to be certain either way.


Hi keith, quite interesting - I read this on 400greybike:-


Quote:
Here's the theory straight from Mr Mikuni - If your bike is properly jetted at sea level, for every 2000ft (600m) increase in altitude you need to drop your main jet by one size. So a 120 at sea level would be a 118 at 600m and 115 (or 116) at 1200m. The same applies as temperature increases every 20 degrees F or 7 degress C.
At 10,000 rpm you noticed the flat spot - your'e too rich on the Main Jet.
However on a road bike you can't change the main jets just because your'e going for a ride in the Snowy's and/or temperature increases or reduces in 7 degree increments. Better to get it spot on for where you live or ride mostly
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