nc30 chain advice

[cyprinis]

I've just checked the chain on my nc30, and according to my haynes manual, it should be "15-25mm" of slack.

Thing is, i can push the bottom run of the chain up, and touch the swing arm with it rather easily.

Time for some chain adjustment then

Looking at the posts i've just found by searching, It sounds easy.

Am I right?

[DynaMight]

It's easy as long as you have the C-Spanner, If not you'll need a flatheaded screwdriver and a hammer.

Just loosen the big nut (the one that also holds the hook that keeps the rear brake line inplace) then in between the sprocket there will be another sprocket type thing, just turn it. I cant remember which way tightens though. Maybe worth attacking it with some WD40 first, It can get pretty tight.
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[VFR400UK]

Check your rear suspension too. Alot of sag means that the chain will tighten up alot when you sit on the bike.

[V4_AllTheWay]

I have one of these bikes, and I agree with all thats said so far.

Turning either way could tighten it, as the hub is concentric (off center). You just need to try both and remember for next time.

[Lee_367]

As others have said its pretty easy to do especially if you've got the c-spanner in the bikes tool kit (also available off ebay) My recommendation is to get a haynes manual, i wouldn't be with out mine.
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[Jamie_ducati]

A chain should only be adjusted when the bike has the usual weight sat in the usual position on it.

ie, you should sit as you normally ride on the bike.
if you carry a pillion regularly (which i doubt being an nc30- pillions tend to think nc30 riders are nutters!! he he) then the chain should be adjusted with them on board too!!

easier said than done i know- get someone to adjust it for you while you are on bike.

or at least sit on bike to check once adjusted.

only fools use a hammer etc to adjust the concentric ring on the hub- screw it up and you wont be able to do it at all!! get the proper tool!
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Jamie
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Time for eDUCATIon

[Symon]

The above advice all sounds good - especially the use of the correct tools. You may get away with not using c-spanner this time round - but you'll end up making life very difficult for yourself next time!

Remember to check the chain slack throughout the whole chain. I find it easiest to do this by first tightening the chain to the correct amount and making a mental note of the slack. Then get on the bike - you should be able to check the chain slack with your weight on it without too much difficulty - then adjust again as appropriate. Then start to walk the bike forward a little at a time and re-check the slack. If the chain has done a fair few miles there will undoubtedly be tight spots in it. You should adjust the chain so that it has the correct play at the tightest point. If you end up with a spot that's too tight you'll end up putting far too much pressure on the front sprocket bearing - which'll be very expensive to replace!

If, once you've done all the above, there's far too much play on the chain at its' loosest point(s) - then you're gonna have to replace the chain and sprockets. Don't ever replace the chain without replacing the sprockets - it's a totally false economy and will result in your chain being chewed to bits in only a couple of thousand miles (or less).

Finally - if you're going to do routine maintenance like this on your bike yourself - you should definitely get a workshop manual for it - at least that way you'll have all the torque settings so that you can be confident you've tightened everything up safely.

Best of luck with it,
Sy.
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VFR 750 (1994) - Anyone good with plastics?

[cyprinis]

I had a go today.

erm, i can't get the bolt undone.

it rides really nicely, but should i be able to push the chain up and touch the swingarm? Thats kinda serious right?

i attacked the bolt with wd40 too, so its pretty well fuc... stuck