Reviving NSR from state of neglect.

[Usel]

I've got an Import Honda NSR 125 RP Fox Eye it's an L Reg 93 Plate with a few problems.

The frame number for the bike is: ZDC JC22 800F 000972

I guess the bike is a French Import but the character after JC22 definitely looks like an 8 rather than a B.

The bikes been laid up for 2 years now after having engine problems and other bits needed doing on it and have only recently felt like getting her going again.

1. I am after a new exhaust as the bike came with a non standard arrow silencer can. Finding a new end can seems expensive and it's cheaper to buy a complete second hand exhaust.

Would an exhaust from a NS125R RK 1991 model fit? I had an 89 model import about 6 years ago and i'm sure the exhaust looked exactly the same with the same fixing points.

2. When I was last using the bike the engine used to rattle when reving over 4-5000 rpm and just didn't want to rev up freely at all. The rattling was pretty bad when getting over 9000 rpm. I had to use the bike as it was for about 2000 miles and kept her under 6000rpm because I just had to get to work and couldn't afford to fix her.

Does this sound like the main bearings have gone? I used to do trips lasting about 20 mins and she was still reliable. Always started first few turns etc...

3. I didn't exactly take care of her when she was standing and would move the piston about every month and start her up every 3 months. I had to bump start her as the battery was flat but she always started up within a few turns of the wheel. She always was good at starting. Then I forgot all about her and left it around 4 months before even starting her or moving the piston and she won't start at all now. Can't test the spark as the start motor won't turn.

Do you think it's just the spark plug fubar'd?

4. I have tried a 6 month old battery off another bike and there's plenty of power in her but the starter motor won't turn. It stopped turning over about 2 weeks before I dumped her I just hear a single click every time I push the button. Lights don't dim when I push the starter so the battery must be good enough.

I have located the starter relay in front of the battery (oblong brick shape do-dar with rubber shelve over it, removing it exposes shiny chrome goodness) which wires do I cross over to test starter motor?

5. Is the indicator unit next to the cdi unit? I need to replace it as it takes ages (10secs+) to switch from left to right. Also it sounds like: dar-pink dar-pink dar-pink (changes direction) durrrrrrrrr dar-pink dar-pink dar-pink. Sounds like no other indicator box I have heard before and it must have been produced pre WW2.

Any idea where to source a second hand unit from?

6. Not sure whether the RC Valve and CDi Unit have been changed for Uk specs. The CDI unit has had the markings rubbed off as the cdi is not in a rubber housing. From memory the power band did seem to go a bit weak after 9-000rpm so maybe it's still restricted? Would go up to 12-000 rpm with no problem. Used to be able to get to 90mph no problems though.

Any help would be much appreciated to get this used and abused sorry state of a bike running again. Thank you.

[alains]

i suggest you do a good cleaning of : tank , carb , air box filter. then put a new plug . about your starter , take it off dismantle it , change brushes & springs brushes , clean commutator and oiled any mobile part . download my file https://www.geneva-racing.com/~alains/NSRtips.doc , you will get your detailed infos about the starter
about your bike the number shows that it's probably a europe model as honda built 1993-1997 (they are restricted)
when you will clean it (as i said) take out your RC valves control unit and look what is written in white on it , you will have a good idea which kind of bike it is (this number should be TV-124)
if you want more infos you can pm to me
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[the grim reaper]

Also, if your battery is flat, that is why the indicators are running slow. Buy a new battery.

Cheers

Grim
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Adverts don't always work: Remember that advert, where the army are running across the desert and they have a wounded man on a stretcher. They get to a ravine, the bridge is down and a caption pops up that says, 'What are you thinking?'. I don't know about you but I was thinking, 'Christ, I'm glad I'm not in the f***ing army'.

[Robby]

Agree with the grim reaper, the starter relay clicking and indicators working poorly points at a dead battery.
As for jumping the starter relay, if you pull back the rubber boot there should be two big terminals on top. Bridge these with a screwdriver. Bear in mind theres a fair chunk of current running through these and the screwdriver tends to stick to them, so it may take a good heave to get the screwdriver off again.

How many miles on it? May need a rebuild. If it was run for 2000 miles below 6k rpm it'll be fairly coked up anyway, the plug will definately need changing.

[knockout_bar]

If it's been standing, the carb is probably gummed. Need to strip it and blow compressed air thru the jets.

If it needs de-coking, try the redex trick. When you get the engine running, set the idle to about 4k, and pour some redex into the carb (with the filter/air box off). Not sure if it would work as well as stripping the top end and doing it by hand, but i've heard it works wonders.

Good luck .
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125 trail bike, custom bars, handguards etc. - ?500.

"egg flied lice" - R6jonny (inspired by McGee)

[Usel]

Thanks for all the replies.

I should be picking up a new battery and plug on Saturday. I will hopefully have a play around on Sunday if I get time.

Will report back on whether I have success on firing her up or not.

[Usel]