Water pump..

[mr.z]

Just wondering..

If for some reason you wanted an eletric powered waterpump on your bike is it doable? the original waterpump is mechanical, could you put the pump near the original site and have it push water arround as normal without too much trouble?

A mecahnaical pump goes by engine speed, so could it be regulated in anyway? would it need it? as far as i know the water is being pumped arorund all the time, only when the thremostat is opened the pumped water starts going arround the system.. so would it go as normal?

What kind of pressure would it need? (system is presurised, would it be similar/lessthan to that?)

The pump is driven off the camshaft, so if you took it off would it effect it by puting less load on the camshaft?



Answers on a postcard...

(thanks for reading)
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[Joey Bane]

i don't think you will notice the power increase
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Currently driving: Motorhispania RYZ(yes i'm another ped "boi")

[mr.z]

its not about the power btw, thats just a bonus (if there is one) i'd be more concerned that it would cause problems seeing as it all designed to be under a certan ammount of load..

It IS useing some power though, the camshaft is driven off the crank, and the pump is driven off the camshaft.. i'd have thought pushing all that water arorund would be pretty significant

Apprently they use these on drag racers (cars)... but then the extra weight...


The main reason is one of the worst jobs on the bike is the mechanical seal, no mechanical pump, no mechanical seal needed.. if it helped reduce overheads it would be good too..
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[Robby]

It could be done - a little electrickery would be needed, hooking up a variable resistor to a rev counter and praying for a fairly linear relationship between wattage and rpms.

Alternatively you could stick to the normal arrangement and drop a bottle of water pump lubricant (which I think is also a seal sweller) and some of the castrol GTX for older engines, which I think contains some seal sweller. Those two combined should stop water/oil interfaces.

When CX500s finally cease to exist you're gonna cry.

[mr.z]

As far as i understand it the ignition system runs differently from 5000rpm and then over, so if the pump is full power under 5000 and half over.. i'd guess that it would need more cooling at lower rpm, seeing as you'd b at traffic lights not moveing under 5000... and above it will be geting more air cooling...? so that might do the trick?



The mechanical seal is a propper f**er to do as it involves removeing the engine, spliting the back off BAKEING IT IN THE OVEN and then trying to hammer a polomint sized seal made of tin into it without smashing it... (shudder)

Yeh cx bits are getting harder to come by (especially euro bits), the choice winter hack.. dispite being huge lard mobiles they are really nice bikes, i've ridden a few newr bikes and really dont get allong with them nearly as well.. but i could cope with a streetfightered paneuro... ...mummy says i'm special.
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