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| syl |
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syl
World Chat Champion
Joined: 05 Dec 2005
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 Posted: 22:24 - 04 Jan 2006  Post subject: Suspension settings |
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How should I set my suspension?
The manual suggests that the rear is adjustable for preload (7 points, 7 is stronger spring action) and rebound (4 points, 4 is larger dampening force). 4 and 2 are the suggested settings respectively for your average 68kg Japanese midget. What would be more reasonable for a 90kg of well built European including luggage?
Unfortunately my experience is limited so I doubt I could just fiddle about, go for a ride and say "wow, that's better". Does it make much difference to handling anyway?
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Current bike: Kawasaki Z750S |
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| Baloo |
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Baloo
Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 05 Jun 2005
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Posted: 23:12 - 04 Jan 2006  Post subject: |
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Get yourself to here
£ 45 for a full set up. I recommend him as do a couple of racing mates of mine
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"We are not heroes, we are from Finchley" |
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| syl |
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syl
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| Zimbo |
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Zimbo
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Posted: 00:12 - 05 Jan 2006  Post subject: |
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| dmahon wrote: | Bit much for twiddling two nuts |
Ah well, if it's that easy, I'm surprised you needed to ask.
Ignore the recommended settings, every bike is different, you need it to be set up on YOUR bike for YOUR weight.
Start by setting the static sag - the amount the suspension compresses under the rider's weight, measured in mm. Not sure what the settings are for your bike, ask Steve Jordan, he knows 
Don't forget that you need to do the back end as well as the front!
Now you've got that done, start on fine tuning the rebound and compression damping, front and rear. Again, ignore the manual settings, they're a rough guide only and are only relevant for new suspension, general wear and used oil etc will have made them irrelevant and they were only ever a rough guide even when new.
Correctly set suspension is the single best performance upgrade you can make to your bike, it's woth quite a few horsepower in terms of your speed over distance, will make your bike a lot more stable and controllable, improve the performance of your brakes and the amount of grip you get from your rear tyre on acceleration, and improve the life of your tyres. Getting it right is a black art that takes years of experience and a fair bit of mechanical knowledge to perfect. My advice is that the £45 you spend to get it done properly may just be the best value outlay you make on your bike in all the time you have it. |
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| MarJay |
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MarJay
But it's British!
Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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| Posted: 00:30 - 05 Jan 2006 Post subject: |
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https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=21874
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another. |
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| iDON |
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iDON
Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 25 Dec 2005
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| Posted: 00:46 - 05 Jan 2006 Post subject: |
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Start with upping that preload to the max. You'll need it (and love it).
Also raises the rear so you'll get quicker steering.
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| syl |
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syl
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| Posted: 01:26 - 05 Jan 2006 Post subject: |
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| Zimbo wrote: | | dmahon wrote: | Bit much for twiddling two nuts |
Ah well, if it's that easy, I'm surprised you needed to ask.
Ignore the recommended settings, every bike is different, you need it to be set up on YOUR bike for YOUR weight.
Start by setting the static sag - the amount the suspension compresses under the rider's weight, measured in mm. Not sure what the settings are for your bike, ask Steve Jordan, he knows
Don't forget that you need to do the back end as well as the front!
Now you've got that done, start on fine tuning the rebound and compression damping, front and rear. Again, ignore the manual settings, they're a rough guide only and are only relevant for new suspension, general wear and used oil etc will have made them irrelevant and they were only ever a rough guide even when new.
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If it were as bad as that, I might just pay the £45. But I've only got adjustable preload and rebound on the rear. Forget any other settings - that's it. The front is completely non-adjustable (and it is a new bike).
If there isn't any kind of reference available for my bike (thought Kawasaki might have had an idea and published them somewhere), guess I'll just turn them both up a bit and hope for the best.
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| fuzz |
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fuzz
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| Posted: 11:15 - 05 Jan 2006 Post subject: |
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To set your preload, you'll need a mate (or two.) Take a measurement between the rear axle and a fixed point on the fairing/subframe with the wheel off the ground. Now get on the bike and have someone steady it. Take another measurement to the same point. The difference between the two is the sag. Aim for about 30mm of sag by increasing/decreasing preload. More means less sag.
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Last edited by fuzz on 00:13 - 06 Jan 2006; edited 1 time in total |
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| Zimbo |
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Zimbo
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| Posted: 21:09 - 05 Jan 2006 Post subject: |
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| dmahon wrote: |
If it were as bad as that, I might just pay the £45. But I've only got adjustable preload and rebound on the rear. Forget any other settings - that's it. The front is completely non-adjustable (and it is a new bike).
If there isn't any kind of reference available for my bike (thought Kawasaki might have had an idea and published them somewhere), guess I'll just turn them both up a bit and hope for the best. |
Ah, in that case you should be able to do it yourself. In the absense of any better information, I should get a mate and a tape measure. Put bike on sidestand and pull over to lift back wheel completely off the floor, get mate to measure the distance from the wheel spindle centre to a point of reference on the rear frame, perhaps a rear indicator stem or something like that??
Then, sit on the bike and hold on to a wall or something to stop you falling over. Bounce up and down a couple of times to settle the suspension, and then with all your weight on the bike in your normal riding position, get mate to measure between the same two points. The static sag is the difference between the two settings, and should at a guess be about 30mm. If it isn't (and it probably won't be!) adjust the rear spring preload until it is.
Now it's just the damping, set it at factory recommendations and try it. If the bike kicks up over road imperfections, soften it a bit. I it doesn't, try increasing damping a little and experiment a bit!
Once it's warm and you can give the bike a proper fast caning, look at the rear tyre. If it has a pattern of wear on it like the attached photo, the compression damping is too firm.
Now to the front, you can try dropping or raising the forks in the clamps to make the bike steer faster or slower. With more fork showing above the top clamp the bike will steer faster and with less effort, but go too far and it'll start to become unstable. Experiment, changing it by about 5mm at a time.
Hope that helps. |
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| tpp |
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tpp
Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 27 Dec 2005
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| Delvard |
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Delvard
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| Posted: 23:29 - 05 Jan 2006 Post subject: |
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Mind find this article of interest. https://www.bikegirl.co.uk/resources/racing/suspension.html
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A thing of beauty is a joy for ever: Its loveliness increases; it will never Pass into nothingness; but still will keep A bower quiet for us, and a sleep Full of sweet dreams, and health, and quiet breathing. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 20 years, 171 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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