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davidkent89
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Additional lights Reply with quote

Hello all.
Just bought some of these: https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8021090863&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
To add onto my 54 plate NRG as basically the lights are shit.

As the lights on my ped are hardwired, i have the space for the switch.
I now have a switch to fit there for the new lights.

Now i need to know how to wire them in.

Now if i have them directly to the battery, via the switch, people can and will turn them on and drain my battery.

Has anyone any suggestions on how to wire these in?
Cheers
David
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davidkent89
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ebay link didnt work, They're spot lights (front fog lights)
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Rookie
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm no expert in this area, but you might have problems doing that. Mopeds have enough trouble powering lights; try putting full beam on and indicating, you can see the main beam dip as the indicators flash. You may find the extra power for these lights is all too much for it.
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T1z3R
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

wire them to the ignition so that they only come on (or are switchable) when its on.
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Aikman666
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PostPosted: 23:26 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I THINK you should be able to wire it into the ignition circuit, that way they could only be turned on when the key is turned. Just an idea, dont take my word for it!
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davidkent89
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PostPosted: 23:26 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rookie wrote:
I'm no expert in this area, but you might have problems doing that. Mopeds have enough trouble powering lights; try putting full beam on and indicating, you can see the main beam dip as the indicators flash. You may find the extra power for these lights is all too much for it.


Only at a junction with no throttle.
I dont have a main beam anyway hence adding lights.
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davidkent89
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, would wiring them to the original headlights, but via the switch work?
As i would only have the extra lights on while moving, not at a junction as i can see enough then with the original lights.

David
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danclarkie
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

would suggest wiring them via the current headlights, jsut curious where on a ped your gonna mount them?
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Milo
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

davidkent89 wrote:
Also, would wiring them to the original headlights, but via the switch work?

The current wiring may struggle with the extra load, and you'll certainly blow a fuse.
A larger fuse and it would work if the wiring could cope with it...but I'd rather find a different way.
I'm just waiting for the bother to solve the sane predicament I'm having, but with heated grips.
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davidkent89
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

well surely with heated grips, it can be direct to the battery, using an inline fuse? as people can't get to the control box to run your battery flat?
The only reason i'm not doing that with these lights is because of my battery when people turn them on in the car parks.
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davidkent89
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 05 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

danclarkie wrote:
would suggest wiring them via the current headlights, jsut curious where on a ped your gonna mount them?


I'm not sure yet.
Either behind the grille on the front where the radiator is, or down below the front fairing or something. Will see how it goes.
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 06 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

davidkent89 wrote:
danclarkie wrote:
would suggest wiring them via the current headlights, jsut curious where on a ped your gonna mount them?


I'm not sure yet.
Either behind the grille on the front where the radiator is, or down below the front fairing or something. Will see how it goes.


Would be sweet behind the grill, was gonna be a rite tart and put LEDs there on my old one.

Jack
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 06 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

SWEET SHITING CHRIST!

USE A RELAY!

I'd be very supprised if the wiring wasn't fryed with the extra load..

https://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglite.jpg

This is how to wire them, the fusebox "switch" is where you'd get power from the ignition, you can use your headlights as the switch, personally i find the taillight to be best if you can't find a +line.

These are fog lights and will need to be ran through a switch with a blue warning light ( https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/homepage/home.html )

You'll need female and male spade connectors, a crimping tool and wire stripper, vwp sell spades with bits to fold over the wire,
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/terms-non/Images/fb6.GIF these are best, preinsulated ones are shit.. best to get covers for them too.. 6.3mm is what you want. I'd strongly suggest getting some if you plan on tinkering with electrics ever.

The fuse should be as close to the battery as possible and the wire shouldn't be anywhere it could get caught or frayed, you'll need a ring terminal to attach it to the battery.

Don't use scotchlocks for attaching wires, or avoid it at least.

Use 18amp cable (ideally an easy to recognise colour i got stripey blue and red Razz) and a 15amp fuse, waterproof (vwp again)

Never bodge wiring, at best it can give you consstant hassle, or your light will go off on a dark country lane, or spark againt the frame and light you up like a 2wheeled bonfire.

Mount them high up to get more light, but aimed down to stop blinding anyone...

Hope thats helpfull Thumbs Up

Good luck, hope they turn out ok for ya Wink
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 01:37 - 06 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

EDIT:

Anyone who wants relays go down your local car breakers, get a load of them out of a bmw or whatever (you can get mini relays, all sorts, any should be fine if they have the pins numbered on the diagram, dont worry about 87a)

You'll get an armfull for £2 or so, they charge £5 each in halfords and the like...
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 02:25 - 06 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Listen to mr.z he speak the truth. YOU MUST USE A RELAY! and sufficiently thick wire with an appropriate fuse. Those lights will be drawing around five times the power of your standard headlamp bulb and will make the wiring loom go meltdown if you don't.

Also given that most fog lights are 2x55w. Bunging an additional 110w of draw onto the charging circuit of a moped is liable to draw so much power it stops dead in its tracks when you switch them on. At a minimum the alternator will be unable to keep up with the excessive draw and you will land up with a flat battery.

I may be proved wrong of course. Moped charging circuits have come a long way since I had one but I don't know if they will have gone that far.
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 06 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I may be proved wrong of course. Moped charging circuits have come a long way since I had one but I don't know if they will have gone that far.


Nah, they're shite. If i buy a new battery, it's flat within 2 months. The other night, my scooter tried dying on a roundabout, so i had to nail the throttle in order to charge the battery enough to provide electricity for the spark!

Jack
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davidkent89
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 06 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jack_Cheese wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
I may be proved wrong of course. Moped charging circuits have come a long way since I had one but I don't know if they will have gone that far.


Nah, they're shite. If i buy a new battery, it's flat within 2 months. The other night, my scooter tried dying on a roundabout, so i had to nail the throttle in order to charge the battery enough to provide electricity for the spark!

Jack


Never had that problem before now
Sure its not a dodgy wire somewhere in your electrics.
I ran neons and allsorts on mine for a good while, i even had them on when the engine was off no problems.
David
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 07 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

It did it on my NRG, and on my speedfight. It's more noticable on the speedfight, as it has 35w halogen bulbs up front.

I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but are there any universal HID kits out there? They may help - less drain than 55w halogens, but a brighter beam. The bulbs are £80 a go though...

Jack
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 07 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jack_Cheese wrote:


I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but are there any universal HID kits out there? They may help - less drain than 55w halogens, but a brighter beam. The bulbs are £80 a go though...

Jack


There are kits for sale but HID is a bit OTT for a scooter, plus the initial start from the HID ballast box would probably drain the battery in one go. Wink
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 01:24 - 07 Jan 2006    Post subject: Charging systems Reply with quote

As regards poor charging systems on small bikes: riding a '93 CG125 in the dark is very amusing. As you come up to a junction and indicate, the headlamp and tail light dim and brighten as the indicators flash. When you then brake, the engine speed goes down and the brakelight comes on in addition to everything else, the headlamp is so feeble that you can hardly tell it is on let alone get any use from it. Laughing

None the less, it starts third kick on medium choke every time. Thumbs Up Smile

Headlamp and taillight on their own are 35W+5W=40W.
Add two indicators at 10W each: 60W.
Add a 21W brake light and the total is 81W. The bike can't even cope with that. Laughing
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 01:52 - 07 Jan 2006    Post subject: Re: Charging systems Reply with quote

mchaggis wrote:
Headlamp and taillight on their own are 35W+5W=40W.
Add two indicators at 10W each: 60W.
Add a 21W brake light and the total is 81W. The bike can't even cope with that. Laughing


Can't wait to try my 6v cg on the road at night.. thats gonna be interesting..

With yours, it might be worth considering LED light replacements (so power used is almost unnoticeable) , for the tail/brake, indicators and instrument panel (3/4wattx2? every bit helps) + bin the pilot if it has one.. This theoreticaly will leave enough left for a higher rated headlight, so you could probably get a propper H4 55/60watt headlight reasonably comfortably.

(most cost will be the indicators, tail/brake are £5 off ebay, 12vLEDs from maplins make instrument bulbs yerself)

Just a thought..
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 02:54 - 07 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't really use it enough myself to justify bothering imo. I have two bikes, my Mum has two bikes and a car, so it's not as though it's critical that it works especially well. I suppose it's a spare of a spare of a spare. Thinking Laughing
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