Rear brake stuck.

[captaindefib]

I got my Kawasaki ER5 out today, after about a week of not riding it (due to dead battery), and it wheeled out of the garage ok, I started riding it to the petrol station, and it seemed to be making a funny noise from the back wheel. I pulled over, got off, and tried to push the bike to the side of the road, and it wouldn't move. I checked it was in neutral, put it on the centre stand, stopped the engine and spun the front and back wheel by hand. The front was fine, but the back was locked.
I got the bike home and had a look at it.
The cable from the pedal to the rear drum moves freely, but the lever on the brake drum is very stiff, and will not move easily, so the back wheel locks, when I put on the brake.

This is my first bike, and I am trying to learn maintenance as I go, so does anyone have any ideas what I could do next to sort this out? or do I have to take it to a mechanic?

Thanks
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Captaindefib
2001 Kawasaki ER-5 >>> 1997 Suzuki GSX600F >>> 2002 Triumph Sprint ST 955i

[LustyLew]

The joy of hub brakes!

You'll need to get the back wheel off first.

Once you have that off, see if you can remove the hub from the wheel, if you cant, use a rubber mallet and give it a few taps round the rim. Not too hard or you could damage something.

Sounds like the shoes are binding.

If you get it off, I'd suggest replacing the pads and giving the inside of the drum a good clean.

I'm sure others can give a more detailed explanation!
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Like a Yorkie - I'm not for the girls

[mchaggis]

I should imagine that the crap and corruption has got in around the brake input shaft and has fouled it all up so it won't return properly, leading to the brake dragging on. If that is the case, it should be a fairly straight forward strip and clean jobby, depending on whether you need to split the chain to get the wheel off or not.

Get a Haynes manual, some fine wire wool, grease, WD40, some sandpaper and enough spanners and sockets to cover every size of nut around the rear end and you can just take it to pieces, clean (mainly cleaning the rusty crap from the brake cam, the ends of the shoes and the input shaft) and reassemble. You might need a new split pin for the brake anchor.

If you take your time as you won't have done it before, a couple of hours should be long enough to allow. Other than the fact that disc brakes are a fair bit more powerful when working properly than drums, I much prefer drums, they are far less prone to getting fubar, and much easier to overhaul.
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I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[stinkwheel]

Agreed. It probably needs dismantling, cleaning and lubing. Probably the pivot in the hub has got gunged up.

If it is any consolation, the drum brake on those bikes is WAY more efficient and reliable than the disgraceful single pot disc effort fitted to later bikes. A good clean up should see it sorted.

It is worth getting a workshop manual for it, this will describe in detail how to dismantle and reassemble the brake as well as being invaluable for sorting out any problems you might have in the future without having to pay your wages into a bike shop.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[captaindefib]

Thanks people, I will be on my way to get a Haynes manual today, and will have a go at it tomorrow.

Thanks
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Captaindefib
2001 Kawasaki ER-5 >>> 1997 Suzuki GSX600F >>> 2002 Triumph Sprint ST 955i

[BFG]

[captaindefib]

No I have not adjusted the chain. I have also unscrewed the adjustment nut on the back right out, and the wheel is still locked.
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Captaindefib
2001 Kawasaki ER-5 >>> 1997 Suzuki GSX600F >>> 2002 Triumph Sprint ST 955i

[BFG]

If you are stuck somewhere, you might be able to free the rear brake up by backing off the adjuster (as you have done) and tapping the brake plate and hub sharply with a mallet whilst rocking the wheel back and forth. Or, use a hammer with a piece of wood. Take care not to use too much force as alloy is soft.

This also makes it easier to get the wheel / hub apart for a proper repair. But if doing it to ride remember this is a get you home move only and take extra care when riding. The brake could lock again at any moment the pedal is pressed.

[captaindefib]

[stinkwheel]

Did you remember to put copper grease on the pivots (and any of the metal on metal moving parts) to stop it happening again?

Don't worry if you didn't, do it next time you have the back wheel off for a tyre change or something.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mchaggis]