Honda H100 starting problems

[Richard1987]

Hello, Just started running in my little honda H100 after an engine seize due to broken crank bearings and scored barrel and piston
When all of a sudden it just cut out, pushed it back home to see whats happened now and i found no spark at the plug, i know the coil was old so i changed it with a spare one i had and i now get a spark at the plug when i hold it to the engine. surely if i put it back in the head, the bike will run

No

doesn't fire at all.. not a sausage. the plug is wet with fuel, and the plug is sparking but its not having any of it, i taken the carb off to clean it. still nothing. im moving towards ignition timing? my honda has CDI ignition not points. but as it was running before, then it just stops? it just dont seem right?

mabey its the carb settings but i dont know what the factory settings should be?

any ideas?

Cheers

[stinkwheel]

Just because a plug sparks against the engine, does not mean it will spark IN the engine. I'd try a new plug first.

The timing should be fixed.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Richard1987]

it's a new plug, the old plug did nothing when put against the side of the engine
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[mchaggis]

See if it will run without the airbox on. Check for loose electrical connections in the ignition circuit.
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[Richard1987]

have tried airbox on / off, loom seems good, battery good. im at a total loss , i think it must be the mixture settings ...
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[Kickstart]

Hi

Wonder how much petrol is sitting in the engine from when it cut out and you tried to start it?

Probably worth trying another new plug. BR8HS should be fairly cheap.

All the best

Keith
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[Richard1987]

hello, tried a new plug today and nothing

its as if its not sparking? mabye it isnt is there a way to test if it is sparking when its in the cylinder? and if it's not, how to make it ?

Cheers
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[stinkwheel]

If mine doesn't play nice. I stick it in second gear with the ignition on and paddle it along the road until it bloody well does (or I until am too knackered to bump it any further).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Richard1987]

tried that also in my despiration

Will be scary if it does fire up tho as i have fitted another barrel and the exhaust bolts are at a differnt angle so only the downpipe is attached at the moment at an angle

The noise even when you kick the bike over is loud
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[stinkwheel]

[Richard1987]

it didnt work even with the exhaust attached this is a differnt cylinder / piston ive tried but the exhaust mounts at a slightly differnt angle?

on most bikes / scooters ive ran over the fields with half exhausts they still make some effort to fire up just 1 little bit but mine makes no effort at all as if it has no spark? ive even tried heating the plug up with a small blowtorch but no attempt to fire
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[Richard1987]

just been messing around with the honda and i can get 1 small fire from it and a small amount of exhaust fumes, this only works if you really kick the bike over hard.

the plug was wet? but i still got the fire when choke was on / off

cheers for help / sugestions so far
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[Richard1987]

Hello. Just spoke to the bloke who changed the crank bearings for me, I told him that i couldnt get the engine to run, he said check the points

As you may / may not know, the H100SJ II doesnt have points, it has a CDI but the engine in mine has points.
The engine must have been changed by previous owner... "seriously didnt know this" so its kinda making sense why its not starting.
I got a new coil for the bike, i guess this is no good as it was for a CDI model ?

dumb question now

How do i set up points ive never had a bike with them so ive never had to mess with them
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[stinkwheel]

You have the wrong attitude. Points good. Points cheap. Points easy to fix. Points all you need on a 2-stroke with no advance curve.

I don't know the exact procedure for an H100 as mine is a CDI and I don't have the manual handy. Have a look at the left side of the engine with the side cover off. Locate the points, they are attached to the stator plate (you should be able to see them through one of the big curved slots in the rotor). Watch them as you turn the rotor slowly by hand, you should see the gap between the two contacts open and close as you rotate the engine.

Now find the timing marks. You should see a series of lines stamped into the flywheel. One is marked F and one is marked T. You want the one marked F. The idea is to adjust the points so they are JUST starting to open as the F lines up with the arrow at the top.

To do this loosen the screw holding the points to the backing plate and 'nudge' their position. They should grip a piece of paper just before the F mark and not grip it just after (take your time, get this exactly right). Tighten them back down, turn the engine completely round and make sure they are still correct (sometimes they move a bit as you re-tighten them, you will be able to allow for this after you do it a couple of times)

Now turn the rotor to where the points are fully open and measure the gap between the contacts with a feeler guage, it should be between 0.012" and 0.016", if it is bigger than this, you need to replace the points.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Richard1987]

i see the points they do open up at the right time, but i cant see a way to check the gap as the rotor is just in the way, i need some kind of puller to remove this?

Thanks for help so far
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[stinkwheel]

You shouldn't need to remove the rotor, just turn it about 180 degrees away from the firing mark, you just need to measure the gap when they are fully open. Should be able to do it through one of the slots in the rotor.

Something else to check. Turn the engine so the points are closed and switch on the ignition, lever the points open with an insulated screwdriver. If a spark jumps the gap, the condenser is duff (the condenser is a metal cylinder attached to the points, it is a capacitor that 'stores' the charge for the coil). If in doubt, just replace the points and condenser, they shouldn't be expensive.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.