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WIERD electrical problem

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jonnay
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Joined: 16 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: WIERD electrical problem Reply with quote

Hi,
Went out to get my bike this morning, turned the ingnition... and nothing happened. The powervalve didn't buzz and none of the dash lights came on.

I tried to bump it and it started, all the lights came on. BUT, as soon as I go over 3000rpm all the electrics go off. The rev counter moves like normal to 3000, then just stops, and the temperature gauge goes back down. (engine still revs like normal, just isn't shown on the gauge)

If I touch the back brake so the light comes on, or use the indicators or headlight, the gauges work as normal. However, over 3000rpm the lights don't actually work (so I pull away in 1st, get to 3000rpm and my headlights turn themselves off and brakelights don't work).

Anyone got any idea what this is? I thought it could just be a flat battery, but it's wierd that the revs STOP the electrics working, I'd expect higher revs to make the electrics work if anything...

Cheers,
Jon
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only guessing and its no much use but it sounds like a dodgy wire, something that is either switched on or off at 3000rpm is either bridging the circuit up to 3000 making it look like its working or is shorting a circuit at 3000 cutting everything out.

I'd check all the fuses first.
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finpos
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely a dodgy connection and/or short somewhere.

Don't suppose your power valve is supposed to operate at 3000 rpm, is it?

finpos.
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alains
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

your battery is possibly down but you should inspect the fuse near the battery . it's inside a cylindric small plastic box , it's a glass fuse of 15Amps with 2 metallic ends , clean oxyde on both ends & on the socket and obviously the continuity of the fuse . download my file https://www.geneva-racing.com/~alains/NSRtips.doc and look how to charge & control your battery . if you are still in trouble post again
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jonnay
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery has a good charge on it. Surely if the fuse was blown then it wouldn't bump start though... ?

Cheers,
Jon
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Barry_M2
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Joined: 09 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it could be a faulty rectifier / regulator.

Get that checked out, and / or replace it.

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alains
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i say check continuity but mainly i said clean oxyde from the contacts , this is where probs happens . but it could be also a loose contact on the key connectors or on the key switch itself
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slikk
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Joined: 15 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

:xhow annoying is it i have just had the same problem with my bike it went to the garage last week he foned fri to tell me it was the coil and rectifier.so i would guess yours has a similar problem but dont make my misstake i sent it to cmc and they have charged a bomb so go back street if poss Thumbs Up
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alains
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i will had this . on the nsr the alternator has 2 separated unit of electricity production : ignition , user's
ignition is under 200Volts AC , user's is under 14.2 Volts DC after rectifier . the ignition circuit is totally independent from the other . so it happens on your bike trouble on lights , ok ?
the bug for my money is a loose contact , because if the rectifier was gone it will stay out all the time . so , check all connections & especially the fuse contacts
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jonnay
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorted Very Happy

The fuse had loads of green "fur" growing on the connections Confused Scraped it off and changed the fuse and it's fine.

Thanks Thumbs Up

Jon
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alains
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PostPosted: 17:38 - 28 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

the old are the best ! Clapping
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