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newbie - er5 - white oil - help

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stooster
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: newbie - er5 - white oil - help Reply with quote

hi,

just passed test and loving my er5 . ok i know its only a lil un to you lot but huge to me. anyway. done about 30-40 miles and all seems to be ok but the oil is white. i am maintenance fitter so mech competent and am assuming that the head gasket has gone. can anyone confirm this. ive read some posts about condensate building up inside the engine and that a good run will clear the engine. if so how long of a run are we talking.

my thoughts were to top up coolant and mark the level. change oil and filter then run for a bit then check again.

any help appreciated.


cheers
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 21:12 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a gasket faliure,

I'd personally let out some oil to check whether it's mayo or condensation.

But then again, I'm a tool that knows nothing about mechanics!
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lee125
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the oil is white is normally means that water has got into it.
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.....
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take it for a nice ride to let the oil get properly up to temperature and check again. Has it been stood for a while or have you been doing short runs on it?
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Nath
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

lee125 wrote:
if the oil is white is normally means that water has got into it.

Yes, I think he is aware of that Smile

The point is *where* the water is coming from. When I had my cg125, water leaked in through the filler cap due to the previous owner cross threading it. £5 for a new dipstick is a bit different to £20 for a new headgasket and a couple of hours to fit it.

Your idea to mark the coolant level in the resevoir tank sounds good, but surely only a tiny amount of water can be getting into the oil which you wouldn't be able to see missing from the coolant resevoir? If the bike feels fine, surely it is best to ride it for a few weeks before making a diagnosis.
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stooster
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe wrote:
Take it for a nice ride to let the oil get properly up to temperature and check again. Has it been stood for a while or have you been doing short runs on it?


i gave it a 20 mile run but still same. when i dip me finger in the oil filler hole it is more like mayo. looks like chain lube. thick. gunge. i would have thought that i would have had no water left in res. the level was low but as its a new bike and first time ive checked it so could have been that way before. thinking it defo needs an oil change. well am dam sure it does.

how big of a job is the head gasket btw. worked on old vespa engines but thay are toys in comparison.
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Nath
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stooster wrote:
how big of a job is the head gasket btw. worked on old vespa engines but thay are toys in comparison.

ER5 is DOHC is it not? Plus you've probably got a few pipes for the cooling system to deal with.
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swampy
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stooster wrote:
how big of a job is the head gasket btw. worked on old vespa engines but thay are toys in comparison.


Given you're pretty competent with a spanner, I would get hold of a manual and work from that, only forseeable thing I would be a bit careful about is setting up the timing....

As an aside, would it not be worth giving the bike an oil change and draining and replenishing the coolant and see how she is after a bit of a run to confirm the head gasket theory ??
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Redd
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stooster wrote:
i gave it a 20 mile run but still same


I think you want a bit more of a run than 20 miles to clear out all the condensation...if it is just condensation. I reckon nearer 60-100 miles is a better bet Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Would be a bit worried that it could be a blown head gasket. However it could be condensation, depending on where it has been stored and for how long, and a few oil changes are a lot easier than a head gasket.

Could also be a leaking water pump seal.

Not sure on the ER5, but the GPZ500 is a pain to get the head off it as the frame runs very close to it.

All the best

Keith
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beans
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 30 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like condensation to me. My monster had a bit of mayo under the filler cap today and its not even liquid cooled! Take it for a good blast and get the revs up a bit, if neccessary stay in 3rd or 4th gear on a long stright and get the revs up near the redline which is better for your licience then redline in top gear. This should get the temperature up a bit and get rid of any condensation. Is there any evidence of oil in the water i.e dip your finger in and you should be able to feel it on your hand. Has there been much steam coming out of the exhaust? I dont know ER5's very well do they have a temperature gague? If they do has it been overheating at all? Is the bike getting upto temperature, as this could suggest a dodgey thermostat which is stuck open and not allowing the engine to reach full operating temperature. Has the bike been loosing any water?
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Mark_petty
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PostPosted: 09:01 - 31 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would do as someone else has suggested change the oil and filter and then take it out for a long run.
If the water level hasn't gone down at all i'm not sure how water is mixing with the oil. So I would say its a build up of moisture from the air (condensation)
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stooster
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 31 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers for all the help guys. just read all the comments and decided to do the oil and filter change and see how things go. also gonna do the plugs and air filter to get a bit accustomed to the bike and as i have no idea where it has been before i bought it. looking at the chain it has been stood for a while as it was beginning to rust.

cheers again, stu Wink
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 31 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the coolant level in the radiator rather than the expansion bottle. The rad. cap isn't all that efficient at allowing coolant to drain back down from the bottle. I have seen the radiator half empty on my GPZ with a couple of inches still in the bottle.

In my experience, if the head gasket is going to fail on one of the 500 twins, it is usually between the cylinder and the water jacket rather than between an oilway and the water jacket. As such you would normally see symptoms of a pressurised coolant system with a blown head gasket.

I have heard of the water pump seal going on Kawasakis before which would cause the same problem.

I have a feeling it is probably just condensation though, those bikes have a big sump (3.4 litres) in relation to their engine size so condensation is a distinct possability.

I would also expect to see some oil in the coolant if one of the gaskets/seals had let go as the oil will be at a much higher pressure than the coolant.
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stooster
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 01 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont want to drag the topic on too much longer as others need help i know but i just had a thought. im doing the service tomorrow inclusive of the oil and filter change but thinking .............should i change the oil and leave the old filter in...run the bike for a week or so so it picks up all the old oil residue then do another oil change and then do the filter this time. Or .....are there some good oil flushing solutions out there that i should use......
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:54 - 01 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would chuck the filter to be honest. If there are bits of goo and water in there, the paper element is going to be in a bit of a state.

Plus the filter and assosciated pipework holds a bit over half a pint of (old, knackered) oil.

Filters are not expensive.

I suppose if you really wanted to flush it, you could buy a container of cheapo bargain basement 10W-40 oil from a filling station. Drop the old oil. Fill with cheapo. Ride round the block a couple of times, drain the cheapo oil and chuck the filter then put in whichever oil you decided upon. If it has got up to temperature, the oil is going to have circulated to anywhere it is going to go

Probably not necessary though.
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Redd
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PostPosted: 00:57 - 01 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stooster wrote:
are there some good oil flushing solutions out there that i should use......


Never done it myself but I've heard of people using petrol/parafin/diesel to flush out crappy oil. Not 100% sure how good it is and there are commercial products available.

As for keeping the old filter for a bit, if it's not clearing out the rubbish now, would it do it with fresh oil ? Might just be a wast of oil.
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stooster
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 01 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

job done and i dont think head gaskets gone . the oil looked pretty much ok but the sight glass was still covered. used off the shelf engine flush and ut left the gubbins all clean from what i could see.

new filter fitted after flush....jobs a good un......thanks for the help guys.

stu
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