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mirax
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: servicing question Reply with quote

what symptons do you experience if the value clearances need doing? as my bike makes a ticking noise and im not sure if its the shims making the noise or something else
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tend to get louder as the bike warms up (parts expand, clearances become bigger)

Camchain will (*apparently) be noisier as the bike is cold and faids a bit as the bike warms up (on imne the oil chain does the same)

Main symptom is less efficient runing, but not allways immediately obvious unless they are very far out (bearing in mind they go out over time so you'll not notice it untill you fix it)


What bike is it? The checking could be a 30minute or several hour job depending (anything with shims is going to be a pain unless you happen to have a big stack of every size..)


*as far as i remember, not had it happen myself)

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Simple
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr.z wrote:
Tend to get louder as the bike warms up (parts expand, clearances become bigger)


Are you sure? I thought as the bits warm up and expand the noise would die down? did with the GPZ when one of the valves was out.
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats why you ALLWAYS do valve clearances from cold, if you do them when its warmed they will be way too tight once the bike becomes cold and you start up the bike again (major problems)

So clearances (i.e. the gap) are biger when the bikes at operateing temp
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Simple
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I though you did them at cold because its a set way of doing it, not everyone can heat their bike to 80degrees then open it up and play with the metal bits.

metal will be same size as it should be , unexpanded when it's cold.
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Nath
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The purpose of clearance between the valve and the tappet is to account of the expansion of the metal. When the engine is cold there is a small gap, so the rocker arms will be likely to rattle around. But as the engine gets hot the metal expands closing up the gap which means no rattling.

If the clearance is too great then there the rockers arms will still bang about even when the engine is at maximum operating temperature, and the valves will not open for as long as they should do.

If the clearance is too small then the valves will not be able to close fully when the engine is hot.


So to answer the original question: If there is a 'ticking' sound coming from the head when the engine is hot, then the valve clearances could be too slack. However if your bike uses shimmed valve clearances then this is perhaps not the case.
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mirax
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

so what perfomance problems would use notice and what would happen if you left it, for example what damaged can be caused. also does it affect idling in anyway as mine suffers on idle when the bikes cold but then sorts its self out once the bikes warmer but the ticking occurs while cold and warm.
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mirax
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

so what perfomance problems would use notice and what would happen if you left it, for example what damaged can be caused. also does it affect idling in anyway as mine suffers on idle when the bikes cold but then sorts its self out once the bikes warmer but the ticking occurs while cold and warm.
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Simple
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

mirax wrote:
does it affect idling in anyway as mine suffers on idle when the bikes cold but then sorts its self out once the bikes warmer


not sure if valve clearences out affects idling, wouldn't have thought so, however all bikes ( I think) that are carbed will have a dodgy tick over until they warm up a bit, even my 500cc. Generally the larger the engine the quicker it will warm up.

my 50's and 125's took ages to warm in comparison with the GPZ.

are you using the choke when you start it from cold?
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd change the plugs first, or at least clean them.
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mirax
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

changed the plugs which made no difference to the tick over but did give better revs though the range. and yes i always have to use the choke when the bikes cold as it just dies if i try to turn it over, also if i start the bike from warm i have to blip the throttle a little while i hit the starter button other wise it doesnt turn over!!! if that could be something involved with the problem as well maybe ??????
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Simple
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 07 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

what bike is it?
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mirax
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 08 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

is a vfr400 nc30
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mirax
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 08 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

is a vfr400 nc30
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IronMaiden
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 08 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why don't you post this under "The Workshop" sure someone will help you there Razz Thumbs Up
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mirax
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 08 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

im gonna strip the body work off tomoz see if its easier to locate the noise , that if it dont bloody rain Rolling Eyes
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