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Honda NSR 125 Choke Prob

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Burncycle
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 01 Feb 2006
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 01 Feb 2006    Post subject: Honda NSR 125 Choke Prob Reply with quote

Hi, I bought a Honda NSR 125R about a week ago, im new to biking and not a mechanic Confused

I'm having problems with the choke.

When i start it on a fully open choke, it idles to about 1.5 - 2k, after a few mins if i try to close the choke it will just pitter out and cutout about 2 seconds later. Most of the time it starts without the choke.

1) Does it really matter if you use the choke or not.
2) Do i need to increase the idle speed at all ?
3) the temperature gauge doesnt seem to move much, is it safe to ride of when it is only just out of cold?

Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
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jamieclayton9
Nova Slayer



Joined: 01 Feb 2006
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 01 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

try starting it without the choke. if it runs ok there should be no need for it. cheers. jamie
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alains
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 01 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

start with the choke at anytime without using your right handle . let it run until the engine is stuffing , put a bit of acceleration (2000-2500) take choke off , run like that for 2 mn . release your right handle your idle must stay 1300 rpm , your engine will give you max power after 10 mn running , but you can go unless you do not try to go over 8000 , afterwards you will reach your max power and your idle must be 1400 +- 100 , if not adjust your idle screw (not the pilot screw)
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Chiz
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 06 Nov 2005
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 01 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bike never gets far out of the blue in the temp gauge and its always been fine for me. The way i do it is just make sure it is out of the blue and not rev it too much for a mile or so.
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NSR-Rulez
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 01 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I let mine warm up til its just out of the blue box, and take it easy for a while too.

Should be fine to ride like that.



NSR-Rulez
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GearboxGeezer
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Joined: 06 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 01 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

u tried putting it on 1/4 throttle just before u take the choke off, then take the choke off and keep it 1/4 or so.
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alains
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 01 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's exactly what i was saying ! Very Happy Very Happy
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ducati455
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 28 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 29 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

When i had mine it just rised abit above the blue it was fine just take it steady for the first 10 mins. And for the the first 5 min i didn't go above 5k
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HardBoiledEgg
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 08 May 2006
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 12 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I to am having a problem with my choke. the difference being when you open the choke it works fine, but when i try to turn off the choke it remains on as if it is sticking, i have o reach under and manually twiddle the cable onto the carb to get it to go off, if i don't you can imagine it coughs, splutters and runs like a bag of poo! often flooding itself.

if its a matter of changing the cable, how do i go about it?
if not what can i do to prevent the choke sticking open, taking into consideration that the carb has recently been stripped cleaned and the bike serviced, worked fine before i had to use the choke again, then back to normal before it was serviced.

any advice or help would be appreciated.

kind regards
chris
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alains
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:49 - 13 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

undo the screw on top of the choke , take the piston out , inspect cable for any dammage , now with WD40 spray it on the cable and keep the cable moving in it's sheath . with waterproof sandpaper 400 or 600 clean the piston and re-fit . it will works fine after that
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HardBoiledEgg
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 08 May 2006
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 13 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the choke assembly as described lubed the cable cleaned the spring cleaned inside the top half of the choke piston cylinder, cleaned the piston for the choke with a dry sandpaper.

now the bike wont start anymore unless it is running without the choke piston in place, as soon as the piston is replaced the bike dies, i think i got some wd40 down in the choke piston cyclinder, would this prevent it from running? if so what can i do to correct it, please help. as myt mechanical knowledge is running very low at the minute.

kind regards
chris
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alains
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 14:44 - 13 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

does the choke lever goes up & down without effort ?
i never told you to put WD40 in the choke , only between choke cable and sheath , because the cable must ease inside it's sheath . also when you've got a dirty piston in the choke hole it will not down & up . take of the piston again , take WD40 off it , refit and look if it moves freely . you may also clean your carb , tank and air foam filter as :
- close tap and take off tank
- take off air box (2 bolts with 10 socket , untighten the collar between carb & air box)
- undo the screw on the choke and take it out
- undo the 2 screws on top of the throttle and take it out
- take off all pipes coming on the carb , the oil pipe must be held as high as possible
- untighten the collar between carb and intake pipe
- now the carb is yours
to open the carb undo the bolt underneath the float chamber and mind the float valve when disassembling
blow every jet you see inside , clean the float chamber and the fuel strainer
about the tank , dismount the tap and clean it
about air foam filter , wash it in a warm water with washing up liquid , rince it , dry it then some drops of 2 Strokes oil , squeeze the excess , that's all
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HardBoiledEgg
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 08 May 2006
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 13 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

that worked now it runs again, got it idling at 1300, pull the choke the bike dies, is that normal although now she dont splutter and cough on high revs. the choke moves freely within the chamber now, maybe it needs adjusting slightly since now the corrossion isn't preventing the piston reaching the top of the chamber.

is it normal for it to die when the choke is pulled, once its warm. seems to run fine when the choke is in however.

the choke piston was corroded, can you buy annodised ones that don't rust, it was only repaired 6/02/06. but i have found out whats causing the problem without having to pay out another £100+ pounds to repair it.

thankyou very much for your time, your help and advise. been very rewarding and an educating day for me thanks most kindly.


although i havent touched the tank, just stripped the carb to get at the jets, blew down them all. put it all back together, noticed that all the glue on the airbox intake is broken, now i know why it makes that silly noise. Razz Thumbs Up

chris
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alains
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 13 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok , you should set your idle (after warming 6-10 mn) at 1400 +- 100 RPM . set the pilot screw at 2 1/2 round out then adjust with the idle screw as above . i think you can order a new choke piston at https://www.dellorto.co.uk , mail to Mattew Cooper sales@dellorto.co.uk and i doubt it will cost £20 , may be 5-10 quids , not more (carb is 28PHBH/FD)
on the micro-fiche (number 37) it's called pull-up choke assembly ref 8730
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Last edited by alains on 17:13 - 13 May 2006; edited 3 times in total
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HardBoiledEgg
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 08 May 2006
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 13 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

enquired about one, next will be to move onto a de-restricted exhaust something that looses that honda 125 noise Embarassed any ideas, you seem like a man in the know!

something that will allow exhaust gases to leave faster, sound better but legal suitable for a foxeye 125NSRR SuperSprint
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alains
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 13 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

the best exhaust system is jollymoto 402 CARB (carbone can) at about £250 all included or the 402 ALU (aluminium can) at £210
i am in touch with the boss in italy , if you want one i can phone him to order it . i need your name & adress , which one you want . when the order is performed i will mail you the proforma bill and you've got 3 days for going to your bank and a wire to their account written on the proforma . it will take 10-15 days after their account is credited for receiving your package (send me a pm if you want) . you can if you want find some on ebay and also choose gianelli which is very near this one . i do not recommand arrow because they are not as good as those and they are heavier, have not long life and i think more expensives
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HardBoiledEgg
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 08 May 2006
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 13 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

my partner says at £250 i have to wait until september.

but i will give you a shout or call if i can persuade her before hand Wink

She Says: which he won't hahaha Twisted Evil
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