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RESOLVED - 2001 CG125W - "Clunk" coming from front

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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 22 May 2006    Post subject: RESOLVED - 2001 CG125W - "Clunk" coming from front Reply with quote

As the topic says, when I rotate the wheel in/out of gear, a loud intermittant rattling or knocking noise comes from the front sprocket.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

TobyR


Last edited by veeeffarr on 23:46 - 04 Jul 2006; edited 1 time in total
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ecclestone
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 22 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

is it possible that the chain is so loose that it is hitting/around the front sprocket,,is the front sprocket loose,,is the chain very rusty and kinked,,is there something stuck by the front sprocket/??
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 22 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Being a Honda I would check that the little plate that holds the front sprocket on has not gone walkabout. They are held on with 2 small bolts (suggest you use thread lock on them).

All the best

Keith
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 22 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecclestone wrote:
is it possible that the chain is so loose that it is hitting/around the front sprocket,,is the front sprocket loose,,is the chain very rusty and kinked,,is there something stuck by the front sprocket/??


Chain's not loose, I serviced it last week (Paraffin clean, and relube, checking for tight spots)

I don't know how to take the sprocket cover off.
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Guest
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 22 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is probably from a C90 but ...

https://www.vjmw.org/workshop/pics/68_cd175_sprocket_cover_paint.jpg


remove footrest and gear lever if they're in the way.

remove screws from sprocket cover.

pull sprocket cover off towards you.

re-assemble in reverse order.
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jam125
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 22 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

if its like mine the front sproket can twist a bit on the shaft and cause a clunk.
There are 3 bolts on the sproket cover one in hole that you will need a socket and extention to get at, one at the top of the cover and one just above the gear lever which is a pig to get out in a cramped shed. i dont know if it will be exactly the same beacase i have the cheapo hongdoo Embarassed
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WavyGravy
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PostPosted: 01:28 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

you'll probably need an impact driver to undo the screws.

dont be tempted to replace those grimy/oily/gunked up bolts holding the sproket locating ring on, theyre made from a high tensile strength steel and those shiny alloy ones they sell at B&Q could cause the nastiest accident and destroy your engine in a blink.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

The noise is a deep clicking coming from this part of the bike when I rotate the back wheel in neutral with the engine off.

https://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h277/th0r0n/Arg.jpg
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opened her up,

The retaining clip is there, and there is no play on the sprocket, the clunk seems to be coming from 'within' the engine.

I gave it a clean
https://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h277/th0r0n/EngineCover.jpg

Sprocket = Ok
https://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h277/th0r0n/EngineCover1.jpg

It's really dirty
https://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h277/th0r0n/EngineCover2.jpg

Looks ok to me
https://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h277/th0r0n/EngineCover3.jpg

Oh fuck, I broke a gasket
https://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h277/th0r0n/EngineCover4.jpg[/b]
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WavyGravy
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

its a longshot but does your cg have a kickstart ? sometimes the return spring doesnt quite disengage the ratchet and it clicks when the engines turning over, am thinking if you removed the kickstart (if you have one) when you removed the exhaust did it go back exactly as it came off? can you press it forward a little more than the return spring takes it?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Counts that clip out.

Can you take another picture of the sprocket, with a more direct view point? Difficult to see, but it looks like the teeth are hooked in that picture. If so rotating the wheel backwards would give a click.

Beyond that I would be tempted to give the bike an oil change, and check the oil that comes out carefully.

All the best

Keith
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Counts that clip out.

Can you take another picture of the sprocket, with a more direct view point? Difficult to see, but it looks like the teeth are hooked in that picture. If so rotating the wheel backwards would give a click.

Beyond that I would be tempted to give the bike an oil change, and check the oil that comes out carefully.

All the best

Keith


Hi Keith,

Sorry, they're not hooked, it's just the way the picture has come out.

Do you think the break in the gasket is a lot to worry about? I managed to assemble it again in one piece.

The retainer is there.

I have a bottle of GPS here ready for the oilchange.

My oil dipstick has little chips of plastic out of it, don't know what to make of this as I am very careful with it (Take it out, wipe filler port, rest on kitchen towel, put in engine, check, and put back).

It sounds like the click it coming 'within' the engine.

I didnt remove the kickstart when I took the exhaust off, no need to.

Toby
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a recording of the sound.

Disregard the file comments, I was bored.
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WavyGravy
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still leaning towards something to do with the kickstart,

i'd check your oil and your mesh filter as kickstart suggested, those dipstick bits must have gone somewhere.

when you spin the wheel have you tried putting your finger against the centre of the spindle and felt it 'bump' when the click happens (ignition off and keys out while you try this) .... or grab the kickstart and do the same thing, feel the bump?

Wouldnt worry too much about the gasket, its not to keep oil in but to keep water out, as long as theres no gap you'll be ok, if there is a gap be inventive.

Has the engine been split before you got it? (tell tale signs are the bolts that hold crankcases together)

I wouldnt worry about splitting the engine yourself other than for learning exercise, you can pick up second hand engines for less than the price a honda dealer will charge you for a few worn cogs if thats what it turns out to be, i still think its got something to do with the kickstart, especially if the engines been split in the past, theyre a real git when reassembling because the return spring pulls the assembly over to one side while youre trying to line up the gears and fit the 2 halves together, the slightest movement and something goes where it shouldnt
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WavyGravy
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is your strife (groan)
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

WavyGravy wrote:
I'm still leaning towards something to do with the kickstart,

i'd check your oil and your mesh filter as kickstart suggested, those dipstick bits must have gone somewhere.

when you spin the wheel have you tried putting your finger against the centre of the spindle and felt it 'bump' when the click happens (ignition off and keys out while you try this) .... or grab the kickstart and do the same thing, feel the bump?

Wouldnt worry too much about the gasket, its not to keep oil in but to keep water out, as long as theres no gap you'll be ok, if there is a gap be inventive.

Has the engine been split before you got it? (tell tale signs are the bolts that hold crankcases together)

I wouldnt worry about splitting the engine yourself other than for learning exercise, you can pick up second hand engines for less than the price a honda dealer will charge you for a few worn cogs if thats what it turns out to be, i still think its got something to do with the kickstart, especially if the engines been split in the past, theyre a real git when reassembling because the return spring pulls the assembly over to one side while youre trying to line up the gears and fit the 2 halves together, the slightest movement and something goes where it shouldnt


Only problem in me splitting the engine is that I need to ride every day.

The main thing that is worrying me is that I'm not picking up any skills from working with the bike, I'm just making a ham fisted hash of things.

If I apply these skills to a bigger bike, it's not going to last very long.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 23:55 - 23 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good lord, that's a big mess of cogs right there :S
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WavyGravy
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 24 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

its just a process of elimination, as its happening with the engine off and in neutral its not a problem with the top half or with the crank. the fronthalf is connected to the back half via the clutch, assuming the kickstart is fully disengaging the clutch can be discounted because the noise is there in neutral.

That just leaves the gearshaft/layshaft assembly or something has fallen into the oil filler. unless hondas build quality has gone down the swannee i'd swear those gearboxes are the least stressed parts of the engine - unless someones been reading about clutchless shifting on a forum not a million miles from here Laughing j/k

when you get a chance tomorrow mark one of the teeth on the final drive and see if the noise happens at the same place each time the things rotated, the shafts inside the engine spin at different rates, if it clunks in the same place it means the problems probably on that drive shaft
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 24 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

WavyGravy wrote:
its just a process of elimination, as its happening with the engine off and in neutral its not a problem with the top half or with the crank. the fronthalf is connected to the back half via the clutch, assuming the kickstart is fully disengaging the clutch can be discounted because the noise is there in neutral.

That just leaves the gearshaft/layshaft assembly or something has fallen into the oil filler. unless hondas build quality has gone down the swannee i'd swear those gearboxes are the least stressed parts of the engine - unless someones been reading about clutchless shifting on a forum not a million miles from here Laughing j/k

when you get a chance tomorrow mark one of the teeth on the final drive and see if the noise happens at the same place each time the things rotated, the shafts inside the engine spin at different rates, if it clunks in the same place it means the problems probably on that drive shaft


Great idea,

Thanks!

Also,

In order to take the cases off, I had to use a massive amount of force on an 8mm spanner (thank god for halfords pro, didn't even bend)

They then came off with a crack, is this normal? There didn't seem to be any damage.

I did them up again with spanner until they resisted a tiny bit, then a quarter turn (Nice and tight, but not too tight)

Should this be ok?

Thanks

T
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 10:12 - 24 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't hear it when the bike is in gear, this might be because the engines quite loud tho Smile But I'm pretty sure it doesn't make noise Smile
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jam125
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 24 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah most tight bolts will crack when you un do them
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Vin
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 24 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toby R wrote:


In order to take the cases off, I had to use a massive amount of force on an 8mm spanner (thank god for halfords pro, didn't even bend)


My tip for this is that everytime you tackle a nut or bolt that hasn't been removed for a while use Plus Gas. Spray bolt liberally and leave for a minute or two then undo.
Bolts often crack when they are tight.

Quote:

I did them up again with spanner until they resisted a tiny bit, then a quarter turn (Nice and tight, but not too tight)

Should this be ok?


Should be. Go for a small ride and check for looseness. Do this for a couple of days after retightening if you are worried about it.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 04 Jul 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Resolved:

This was due to tight spots in the chain.

I removed the chain and gave it a paraffin bath, left it to dry, and coated heavily in chain lube and refit.

The wheel spins freely now.
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