Free DT 125

[wots]

Very busy day today, picked up a bunch of parts this morning, thanks again spikenipple.
I've accumulated a stash of parts this week, looks like this.
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01113642HDR_zpsbfa25e13.jpg~original
Then discovered this
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01124839_zpsfb11d99f.jpg~original
and the other side!
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01125430_zpsd165ea99.jpg~original
I think I'll get away with this, clearly a chain has jumped off at some point.
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01125437_zps1dc1cbbc.jpg~original
Drained tank and used just fuel not premix as the oil was full and pump was working just fine. Wanted to see if it ran better and not so smoky. It did, and it wasn't fouling the plug so much.
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01125449_zpsee35f1ab.jpg~original
I won't need to change the bars will I?
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01132512_zpsc940200e.jpg~original
Got carried away
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01145830_zpsd65f438d.jpg~original
I can't believe how easy it was to get the engine out.
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01145859_zps168e49f4.jpg~original
Brake pads are overrated, this is how it came off!
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01150242_zps7608614e.jpg~original
Clutch isn't working at all, need to figure this out, it all moves fine but just isn't working. Had the other cover off and it looks OK, but will probably pull the clutch apart anyway.
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01154758_zps520efa90.jpg~originalhttps://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01154803_zps655b1dbf.jpg~original
Some head pics.
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01155639_zps18202752.jpg~originalhttps://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01155646_zps4f0e9bb3.jpg~originalhttps://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01155658_zpscaa5e0cf.jpg~originalhttps://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01155709_zps6e2ce231.jpg~originalhttps://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01155722_zps68712fae.jpg~originalhttps://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/2014-02-01155734_zpsa2d2fefd.jpg~original
I haven't stripped any further than removing the top, needed an opinion on the barrel (from what can be seen). If a new ring and gaskets is sufficient then great.

To do :-
New bars, as they are bent
Clutch, I'm thinking this is an issue with actuation rather than a duff clutch, I was advised there had been problems with a spring or something previously. I need to understand how this clutch is supposed to work.
Strip the remainder and get parts ready for cleaning/powder coating.
Brakes, there are none!
Electrics, not as bad as I first thought, lighting circuits and ignition switch have been chopped out but the rest of the loom is there and in good order.
Some of the above will be done tomorrow, particularly further stripping.
____________________
Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[_Iain_]

https://i.imgur.com/bCEyJxp.png

23 rotates, pushes 18 through 22.

18 pushes 6 out, thus releasing the clamping force holding the stack of 3 & 4 together & compressing the four springs (no 7)

Number 4 attaches to the clutch basket which in turn connects to the gearbox or the crankshaft (can never remeber which) whereas number three connects to the centre bit of the clutch (number 2)

When you pull the clutch the idea is that as 6 releases the pressure off the plates & they dont grip each other, thus engine & gearbox are seperated.

Potato explanation involving no technical terms using EPC photo from a 1986 DT125 LC

When you say it doesn't work - pop number 6 out, remove all the metal and fiber plates. pull clutch lever and check that the rod 18 is still free to move. If so pull the plates out and soak in 10w40 overnight, then bosh the whole lot back together.

However be aware that there is an element of clutch drag normally, so the sprocket will always spin if theres no chain on it even if the clutch is operating correctly

IMO no point in re-ringing it if the compressions good. Barrel looks fine, it diddn't rattle - just bolt it all together and run it. You may find the crank seals have perished so untill it's been run and ridden you won't know if the bottom end needs a full and costly rebuild.

Sorry, another edit - forgot to say good work sir!
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[wots]

Now I've got the engine out, it'll be easier to work on. Everything I've looked at by taking covers off, has looked spot on. It starts and runs from cold no bother at all now.

I'm thinking of some red Renthals, or should I stick with black as there would be too much red? If you can get these cheap, let me know. There's a yamaha dealer in Carshalton (about 1/2 a mile from my garage) and they also do Renthal stuff so I might go and have a look. However, they tend to be expensive.
____________________
Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[wots]

Opinions fellow BCF'ers. A mate of mine is wanting to do a powder coat for some of his components, they will all be black, as you know it can be cheap to do a few bits in the same colour together.

The Yoke is black. The frame is red, if I powder coated the frame black, which would contrast anyway as the seat is black. Would this look ok?

We have a powder coaters round the corner that do a good job at a fair price. Also, I'll need an opinion of the weld on the shock mount, I think it's supposed to be like it is, but I'll upload a pic later.
https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/CA56ADA1-8571-4E97-B528-E43B27B5F75A_zpsgu0pnlx1.jpg
____________________
Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[P.]

Black with red bodywork would be nice

[STONEY!]

Weld looks a bit shit but solid. Personally I would put the bike back to original or keep it so you can put it back to original. I think these will be worth some money in the future.

[wots]

Another productive day.
Stripped the rest of the parts off the frame https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/40BDF2EA-AA78-46DB-8A09-0831129AD509_zpsbz2e1uyl.jpg~original
Cleaned & Autosol good front wheel I obtained yesterday, I haven't done the spokes yet.https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/582A1413-B97F-4584-8102-47B096CDBCAF_zpsdv6zolv9.jpg~original
Cleaned rear wheel, condition is ok, but some markings to the rim, should be ok though. Also replaced rear shoes £8.https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/4CE171B9-95B0-42AE-BF63-98E945BA78C9_zpsg9tlvngv.jpg~originalFrame jet washed.https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/6D9E0E64-93D7-482D-9AC2-2FDA3818294D_zpssltr3imu.jpg~original
Investigated the clutch, as Iain described above there is a rod that goes through. It wasn't moving, as I disassembled the clutch I could see that this rod appears to have an adjuster and adjusting it back I could get it to move with the arm at the other side. Clearly suggesting wear, then I stripped the clutch down further. I was greeted with this.https://i1312.photobucket.com/albums/t525/wotsthestory/Bike/1F8E26B5-5DCD-4C0E-9987-6EC81E868EAC_zpsv58zssuc.jpg~original

Plans have changed, because of some of the above and some bits with the frame suggest it's less than perfect, but I never expected it to be spotless for the price of well, free. I want to use it, on and off-road so if it's perfect I won't want to use it. I'm going to do the frame and bits myself get it re-assembled. Sort out the clutch and see where it's at.
____________________
Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[spikenipple]

Bloody hell, no wonder the clutch didn't move
____________________
C50 > GN250 > XJ600 > SV650S K7 > 2001 RSV Mille R > MT-09, XR400R > 2005 Fireblade (trackbike) + 2022 MT-09 + ZXR400 race bike

[_Iain_]

Obviously its not going to be perfect, but I've heard of people filing the baskets to get the grooves out of them - yours is exceptionally worn, but for the sake of a clutch gasket and a litre of oil it's gotta be worth a punt.

I'd file the basket, adjust the clutch pushrod up to spec and bop it back together after soaking the plates for a few hours in oil. See where you sit after that..if its already buggered then it cant hurt trying a fix eh?

This may help - https://www.ktm495.mxbikes.com/clutch/
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[wots]

Exactly what I'm going to do, I have a new clutch friction plate set coming £13. I saw a video about gently filing the ridges. The clutch is dead easy to get to when in situ, so I can get it all back together and see if that works. In the meantime I can look out for a basket. However, most of the baskets I've seen are the 5 spring version, rather than 4 on mine (and your EPC diagram above). I wondered if you could use the 5 spring version as there are lots of complete baskets around.
____________________
Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[_Iain_]

I honestly dont know.

I'll have a rummage through the EPC and get a part number to cross reference. If I can do this we may find the basket was used on other models that are easier to find bits for - have you confirmed the reg number? A model year would be most helpful when researching stuff
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[wots]

[_Iain_]

Assuming the year matches with the model etc you're looking for part number 2AJ-16150-00 however that turned into 2AHE61500200 and that's still availible at £299.47 from yamaha

Not having much luck finding a cross referance at the moment - however that'd be the magic numbers if you can find one. Most of the US cross referances don't seem to recognise the existance of a DT for whatever reason.
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[wots]

[_Iain_]

[wots]

[P.]

[wots]

That's one mystery solved, he's just been back in contact. The odd thing on the side, is a stepper motor, essentially a homemade power valve actuator (which explains the switch too), because he couldn't afford the pukka thing. Interesting.
____________________
Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[stevo as b4]

The DT LC mk1 with the RD125LC derived motor is 16bhp@7000rpm in full power form. I have always read that the mk2 YPVS enabled motor is 22bhp@8500rpm.

Either way I'm getting a real soft spot for this project, and despite the OP wanting to make it a useable off roader, I agree with those that say full resto, as it would make a lovely sister bike to my KMX125.

[evoboy]

[_Iain_]

[wots]

IF this goes OK, I'm considering an Athena 170CC. There are loads in Europe quite cheap. I'm thinking rather than extracting more out of the engine and making it fragile, just increase capacity and minor tweaks.
____________________
Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[_Iain_]

Capacity increases is the thing most likely to make it fragile. RS125's with big bore kits go bang, scooters with big bore kits go bang - and 170cc is a fairly massive overbore. At the point you've fitted this kit the service schedule will be tiny - and for the hassle you may as well be running a full on motocross/enduro 125 with more power and better suspension as stock!

To put into perspective - a massive overbore on a 1275cc mini cooper engine takes it up to 1380 (8.2% increase in capacity) - however most people won't even think about fitting a turbo to anything past 1293cc as the cylinder wall is so thin! A big bore kit for a Bandit 1200 takes you up to 1340cc (an 11.6% increase in capacity). You're talking about a 36% increase here, combined with much more agressive porting and usually a single ring piston!

At the point where you belive you need more power, I'd consider fitting a pipe and nothing more - they usually offer good gains, without sacrificing reliability if it's jetted correctly. After that it's probbably time to get a new project in - I've written a huge guide on road registering offroaders to make it very easy to do
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[wots]

Fair enough. Have just obtained a new Brembo twin pot caliper for the front from a later model which I'll make fit!
____________________
Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[Blau Zedong]

The crank on these is a bit minimalist, the boys who had LC125's with 170 / 180 kits found out that the big end was the weak link.
____________________
18:54:48 Rob Fzs: jews don't give away stuff for free

18:54:59 Rob Fzs: unless its their clothes/ hair/ golden teeth