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Kawasaki Zephyr 550 will only start with choke

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garacs
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 03 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I made a small video of the engine starting when already hot. Cold, it needed the choke...

Here's the link

https://youtu.be/_kO2IB55lcg?si=hS3BcNRmwZSaimAY

The response to the gas is so slow I can take a coffee before it gets back to idle ...

Is this a definite sign that I need to reclean the carbs?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 03 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

That soounds like an air leak.

Possibly something sticking open.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 04 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, inlet air leak will do that.
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garacs
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Inlet manifolds and airbox manifolds are usually rock hard and cracked on these. Genuine new Kawasaki ones in my experience are also rock hard and cracked, its always the first thing I look at on these.

Also I seem to remember the inlet manifolds use a stupid spring retainer around the carbs instead of a clamp, they let in air.


Yes they are indeed hard, and the stupid spring is there as well. Yet spraying some starter fluid wont make the RPMs rise... so I believe no air leak there. I hope at least.
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garacs
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 06 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I disassembled again for the fourth time carb 1.... This is the gasket on the idle screw
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garacs
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PostPosted: 15:06 - 06 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

no idea why or how that happened, all gaskets were replaced.
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garacs
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 07 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I reinstalled the carbs, started the motor: only cylinders 2 and 4 were working... Which is weird, since it means both coils were not working properly. Switching them, now I had cylinder 1 not working again, all other cylinders working...

So I took out the coils and checked again with a multimeter the coils, the wires, the plugs. All specs within range. I cut the tip on both ends of all the coil wires to give fresh metal for the plugs to bite into.

I then replaced all the sparkplugs, with the ones the bike had when I bought it: now the engine started with all 4 cylinders!

But... since i was doing everything without the fuel tank attached (using the fuel inside the carbs bowls) I had to turn off the motor. When I restarted it, cylinder 3 was not working anymore....

Removed the carbs, cleaned again all jets (they were not clogged, but just in case and before you guys tell me to clean them anyway...) reinstalled all but no joy...

The engine starts even without choke (finally) but only on 3 cylinders.

If there is an air leak, I have no idea where it could be. Ah in the meantime I fitted new copper gaskets on the exhaust manifolds.

I am honestly thinking to replace the coils, wires and plugs...
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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 09 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

garacs wrote:
So I reinstalled the carbs, started the motor: only cylinders 2 and 4 were working... Which is weird, since it means both coils were not working properly. Switching them, now I had cylinder 1 not working again, all other cylinders working...

So I took out the coils and checked again with a multimeter the coils, the wires, the plugs. All specs within range. I cut the tip on both ends of all the coil wires to give fresh metal for the plugs to bite into.

I then replaced all the sparkplugs, with the ones the bike had when I bought it: now the engine started with all 4 cylinders!

But... since i was doing everything without the fuel tank attached (using the fuel inside the carbs bowls) I had to turn off the motor. When I restarted it, cylinder 3 was not working anymore....


Removed the carbs, cleaned again all jets (they were not clogged, but just in case and before you guys tell me to clean them anyway...) reinstalled all but no joy...

The engine starts even without choke (finally) but only on 3 cylinders.

If there is an air leak, I have no idea where it could be. Ah in the meantime I fitted new copper gaskets on the exhaust manifolds.

I am honestly thinking to replace the coils, wires and plugs...


On my FZ750 I had an issue with the NGK long reach resistor plug cap. Interestingly these plug caps can be disassembled which I didn't initially realise so it was frst 'fixed' with a 'racing' cap type in red silicone.

Anyhow once home I dismantled the cap extracted the resistor cleaned up all the (corroded) gubbins and I was good to go again. Just in case these are the same caps you have. Also you don't need resistor plugs AND resistor caps.

NB No 1 plug cap was the culprit - from the sidestad lean maybe. Perhap syou also swapped your plug caps about when trimming back teh leads.. 1 =>3
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garacs
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 10 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
garacs wrote:
So I reinstalled the carbs, started the motor: only cylinders 2 and 4 were working... Which is weird, since it means both coils were not working properly. Switching them, now I had cylinder 1 not working again, all other cylinders working...

So I took out the coils and checked again with a multimeter the coils, the wires, the plugs. All specs within range. I cut the tip on both ends of all the coil wires to give fresh metal for the plugs to bite into.

I then replaced all the sparkplugs, with the ones the bike had when I bought it: now the engine started with all 4 cylinders!

But... since i was doing everything without the fuel tank attached (using the fuel inside the carbs bowls) I had to turn off the motor. When I restarted it, cylinder 3 was not working anymore....


Removed the carbs, cleaned again all jets (they were not clogged, but just in case and before you guys tell me to clean them anyway...) reinstalled all but no joy...

The engine starts even without choke (finally) but only on 3 cylinders.

If there is an air leak, I have no idea where it could be. Ah in the meantime I fitted new copper gaskets on the exhaust manifolds.

I am honestly thinking to replace the coils, wires and plugs...


On my FZ750 I had an issue with the NGK long reach resistor plug cap. Interestingly these plug caps can be disassembled which I didn't initially realise so it was frst 'fixed' with a 'racing' cap type in red silicone.

Anyhow once home I dismantled the cap extracted the resistor cleaned up all the (corroded) gubbins and I was good to go again. Just in case these are the same caps you have. Also you don't need resistor plugs AND resistor caps.

NB No 1 plug cap was the culprit - from the sidestad lean maybe. Perhap syou also swapped your plug caps about when trimming back teh leads.. 1 =>3


Interesting, didn't know you could disassemble the spark plug caps...
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A100man
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 11 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

garacs wrote:
A100man wrote:


On my FZ750 I had an issue with the NGK long reach resistor plug cap. Interestingly these plug caps can be disassembled which I didn't initially realise so it was frst 'fixed' with a 'racing' cap type in red silicone.

Anyhow once home I dismantled the cap extracted the resistor cleaned up all the (corroded) gubbins and I was good to go again. Just in case these are the same caps you have. Also you don't need resistor plugs AND resistor caps.

NB No 1 plug cap was the culprit - from the sidestad lean maybe. Perhap syou also swapped your plug caps about when trimming back teh leads.. 1 =>3


Interesting, didn't know you could disassemble the spark plug caps...


Not all of them.. maybe not yours..
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 11 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

The old CX's had long reach plug caps with 5K resistors in them which often rotted out.
Some folk used to fit brass blanks in them but
I always swapped them out for non resistor types which were cheaper and never gave any problems.
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garacs
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 11 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:


Not all of them.. maybe not yours..


chcked, and no, they cannot be disassembled...
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garacs
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 11 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
The old CX's had long reach plug caps with 5K resistors in them which often rotted out.
Some folk used to fit brass blanks in them but
I always swapped them out for non resistor types which were cheaper and never gave any problems.


I would then buy new ones... but I think the next step is replacing coils.
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garacs
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 10 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here I am, back tinkering with my Zephyr after a small pause due to personal stuff getting in the way...

So I did not buy the coils as I was hoping to do. Yet today I brought it out again just to check... and it did not start.

I brought it back in removed the carbs, replaced the jets and gaskets with new ones I received in the meantime, and after a bath in ultrasonic, I reassembled everything back together.

Brought the bike out, pulled the choked and after some turns it started, but again, only runs with choke.

I also noticed now it was only running on cylinders 1 and 2.

So I did something you are not supposed to do... I unplugged the sparkplugs 3 and 4 with the engine running.

RPMs got higher so I "calmed" them down removing the choke, and the cylinders were happily running. As soon as I replugged the sparkplugs for cylinders 3 and 4 these also started to work, but really roughly and I had to adjust the idle a bit. Yet all 4 cylinders were working!!!

So I did the stpid thing, and shut the motor off... And restarting it, only ran on cylinders 1 and 2.

I unplugged them, and started the motor again, only having cylinders 3 and 4 plugged, and it ran only with choke.

So reassuming:

1 and 2 work without choke and with 2 and 4 unplugged.
3 and 4 work only with choke and 1 and 2 unplugged.

I swapped the coils around, same results.

Can someone let me know what the heck is happening????
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:49 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strange one this, one coil serves 1+4 cyl and the other 2+3 cyl.
Q, what input voltage readings have you got to the coils when swapping / tinkering about?
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garacs
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PostPosted: 07:37 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Strange one this, one coil serves 1+4 cyl and the other 2+3 cyl.
Q, what input voltage readings have you got to the coils when swapping / tinkering about?


Yes that's pretty strange. I did not check the voltages, will do this later today. Here though the resistance value againsts the standard values in the repair manual (my values in blue)
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garacs
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PostPosted: 07:41 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not measure the arcing distance, but each spark plug had a bright blue-purple strong spark, by eye-measure linger than 5mm.

One thing I noticed, when the caps were unplugged they were still arcing to the metal parts of the motor. Also touching them I got small shocks. Is this a sign they are not properly isolated? Could this be part of the issue?
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Last edited by garacs on 07:53 - 11 Aug 2024; edited 1 time in total
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garacs
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PostPosted: 07:53 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

garacs wrote:
I did not measure the arcing distance, but each sparkplug had a bright blue-purple strong spark, by eye-measure linger than 5mm.

One thing I noticed, when the caps were unplugged they were still arcing to the metal parts of the motor. Also touching them I got small shocks. Is this a sign they are not properly isolated? Could this be part of the issue?


Would adding some dielectric grease help (if not fix) that?
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garacs
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I found out I have much probably a vacuum leak on both sides of the carbs, would using RTV on the mating surfaces be a possible solution? At least temporarily?

The rubber of the air box boots is still soft for the most part, but on cylinder 4 is harder than the others. Plus, the spring on the boot used to secure them on the carbs is quite old... So I guess it is not as tight as it is supposed to be.
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garacs
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the other side of the carbs, I cleaned the mating surfaces of the intake manifolds. In the pic, on the left how they were, on the right the first one I cleaned and sanded down with 400 - 800 grit. Oring was still perfectly round and soft, no damage, so I reused it (it was probably replaced right before "parking" the bike for years...)

I also cleaned the mating face on the cylinders.
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garacs
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another picture of the manifolds back in place
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garacs
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 11 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here the manifold before and after
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garacs
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PostPosted: 08:47 - 18 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

And the saga continues...

After buying new spark plus, I also received 2 "new" (used but said to be in good working condition) coils.

So I put all together, after testing the coils, which had values a bit higher than the ones they are replacing, but still within the limits that are set on the manual.

Yet, after trying to fire the motor up, even if there was a change, I still am out of luck. Now onnly cylinders 1 and 4 work (left coil), while 2-3 don't (right coil).

So I replaced the "new" coil with the old one: same result.

I removed the boots and the spark plugs, and noticed the 2-3 ones were looser than 1-4. Yet I checked the condition and spark...
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garacs
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PostPosted: 08:56 - 18 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

So here the pics I took, First Spark plug for cylinder 1
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garacs
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PostPosted: 08:56 - 18 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spark plug cylinder 2
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